Re: Top Adjustment - Catches Windshield Weather Stripping

A little help, please!

This is a 2008 987.
When I open the top, the weather stripping on the windshield gets pulled back and makes a "snap" sound. It seems to be only happening right in the center - near the top release latch. It's kind of like the top drags back rather than lifting slightly up as the top is retracted. Here's a pic. I know it doesn't look horrible, but it does make a loud noise and I think over time it will rip.



Is there an adjustment I can fiddle with to try and improve this? I should mention that while doing some spring tuneup I found the length adjustment bolt on the arm with the white ball on the end was loose on the drivers side. See pic.



I adjusted with the top to even it up with the passenger side and tightened the bolt. But maybe I screwed something up? Any ideas?

Current Love: 2008 RS60; 1st Love: 2001 base, triple black

The length of the front pushrods ( the ones that terminate with the white [or red] plastic ball cups) control the final position of the leading edge of the canvas top as it mates up with the upper horizontal part of the windshield frame.

You can make gross adjustments at the 10mm nut with fat washer or fine adjustments by screwing the plastic ball cup in or out to shorten or lengthen the pushrod.

In your case, perhaps you can take a close look at the pushrod that came apart to see if there are any telltale marks that will tell you what the original length was (i.e., how the two parts of the front pushrod are joined).

Be aware that it is not a strictly linear progression and that once you go past a certain length, the leading edge of the top will start pulling back when it is at its final closed position.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice,
I was hoping to hear from the "top expert" himself! I will look for any telltale marks on the pushrod setting. I also tried to mimic what the passenger side length looked like. What is the top movement reaction from a longer versus shorter push rod position? Or, should I just perform several trial and error attempts? I was worried about changing the setting too much for fear of putting too much stress where it doesn't belong - any chance I could really mess it up?

When I tried to set the rod length, I opened the top about 1" from the windshield, then measured the distance to the windshield on the passenger side and set the drivers side to match. Should I do this with the top further back from the windshield, or is there another method?

Current Love: 2008 RS60; 1st Love: 2001 base, triple black

The longer the rod the further the front edge of the top on that side will end up farther forward. After you reach a certain (overall) length of the front pushrod, it will start to retract just as it reaches its final position (i.e., when the electric motor cuts off and the idiot light on the dash goes out).

You can't mess anything up that would damage the top with these adjustments, and you should increase the length of the pushrod very gradually to see what results you get.

I think that having the front edge of the top end up further forward might mean that the front edge might lift upwards a little higher when it first starts moving, perhaps enough to alleviate that pulling on the gasket.

Also double check that your tension ropes are intact and attached. Those are located underneath the rear main bow of the convertible top frame, the ones that you "unsnap" when putting the top in the service position. Those serve to keep the rear main bow pulled down and that create pulling tension on the convertible top canvas.

Regards, Maurice.