Re: I used to be dyslexic ...

the top/middle, small pulley (is this the tensioner?) has burned rubber built up around it and the belt was stuck on the lower large pulley. I started the engine breifly and did not hear any distinct noises to identify if a particular pulley is causing the problem. Couple questions:
- Where can I find a diagram of the belt routing?
- Which pulleys should be able to be rotated by hand to help with diagnosis?
- I have the older belt (the one that burned up only 7,000 miles on it) and was thinking of putting on the older belt to help with further diagnosis
- I went to Mike Focke's site but the link to the serpentine belt replacement no longer works
- Any guidance appreciated to diagnose and repair my 98' Boxster with 68,000 miles
Thanks

I'd presume that every pulley with the exception of the crankshaft should spin easily and not wobble. Sounds like an opportunity to replace the water pump while you are in there. That is covered on Pedro's site.

should the upper idler pulley be easy to turn by hand? It is frozen. The burnt debrs from the belt was at the base of this pulley. If this pulley is supposed to turn freely is the next step to pull this off and replace it?
Thanks for the guidance.
Dan M.

Sounds like you are in the market for either rebuilding the idlers, or replacing them....

Is this as straight forward as it looks? Just unbolt each one and insert a new one or is there a more detailed procedure for removal/replacing? Since one idler is bad should I presume all will fail and replace all three?
Thanks for the diagram and advice...very helpful. PS: I am also located in PA.

Here are some instructions-
[www.pelicanparts.com]

I have two of the three pulleys off, but the tensioner pulley is a bit stubborn and I am not sure if I am turning the 24mm bolt the right way. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise?

The tensioner pulley is a little bit different. It is attached to a spring-loaded arm via a single bolt that is backwards in orientation from the other two idler pulleys. It is a righthanded thread. You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2011 10:53AM by JFP in PA. (view changes)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2011 10:55AM by JFP in PA. (view changes)

..now I will order the belt and three pulleys...

Remember to use LocTite and torque to specs.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2011 12:36PM by JFP in PA. (view changes)

... but now I'm KO
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

And you should be fine. Some would say doing all of them is over kill, but they all have the same running time on them as the one that dies, and you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road because you saved a few bucks..............

I would replace both idlers #3 & #8 AND the tensioner #7. The idlers #3 & 8 just unbolt but tensioner #7 tequires an odd size 15mm spanner behind the tensioner to remove.
If one bearing has gone, the others are not far behind......

Quote
Arena Red
the top/middle, small pulley (is this the tensioner?) has burned rubber built up around it and the belt was stuck on the lower large pulley. I started the engine breifly and did not hear any distinct noises to identify if a particular pulley is causing the problem. Couple questions:
- Where can I find a diagram of the belt routing?
- Which pulleys should be able to be rotated by hand to help with diagnosis?
- I have the older belt (the one that burned up only 7,000 miles on it) and was thinking of putting on the older belt to help with further diagnosis
- I went to Mike Focke's site but the link to the serpentine belt replacement no longer works
- Any guidance appreciated to diagnose and repair my 98' Boxster with 68,000 miles
Thanks

pulley on the crankshaft, which of course drives the A/C compressor, power steering, alternator, and water pump (maybe not in that order).

There are three idler rollers. At least one is on the tensioner.

If an idler roller shows signs of rubber around it that's likely the bad one with a failed (seized) bearing. At some point the drag can cause the crankshaft pulley to slip and when this happens the belt could very well weld itself to the crankshaft pulley.

There should be no reason to remove any pulley.

At least one idler roller bearing is bad. Whether you want to replace just the bearing or the entire roller is up to you. That the bearing failed I'd be leery of perhaps the roller having a flat spot in it. Also, unless you're mechanically inclined replacing the entire roller with a new one (which comes with a near bearing) is probably your best bet.

While you have the belt off you can check each of the accessory drive pulleys for any wiggle. The wiggle is so slight (usually but not always) that in order to id the one with wiggle you have to get a feel for what the others feel like. Odds are all the others will be ok. If there's any pulley with any wiggle chances are it will be the one that drives the water pump.

If you find the water pump pulley has some wiggle/play then you should replace or have replaced the water pump.

Someone I think has already posted something showing the routing of the belt. If you need a pic, PM me with your email address and I'll send a pic of my Boxster's belt and the routing to you.

Sincerely,

MarcW.