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| Brakes on my 987S Kevin the Slow in NYC - 9 years ago |
I did my brakes this morning and I'd like to share a few observations...
I last did brakes on my 02 986, but I don't think there is a real difference. My 02 was a base, and I think the pads might be different, but the job was about what I remembered.
The instructions on the Pelican Parts website are spot-on, and the images helped immensely. Read the instructions and make sure you have all the tools necessary before you start the job.
Remember, the 987 doesn't have a lug wrench! I forgot this little factoid, so I was forced to use a simple socket set with a 13mm socket and had to stand on it to get the tire bolts loose. Lesson learned, I picked up a lug wrench at the auto parts store.
Starting with the rears, once the wheel was off, I couldn't get the wear sensor out. I decided to leave it in and do the rest of the steps, then remove the sensor once the pads were free. This worked great and I avoided damaging the sensors by trying to force them out.
Remove the retainer clip that holds the pin that keeps the pads in place and tap out the pin with a screwdriver and hammer... Easy!
Remove the pad retainer clip and remove the sensor wire from its little clip takes a slight bit of wiggling, but it comes off easily.
Prying our the pads was a cinch! A screwdriver in the hole on the frame of the pad and out they came. I recommend using a cloth between the screwdriver and the caliper, otherwise you risk, as I did, scratching a bit of paint from the caliper while prying out the pads.
With the pads out, getting those sensors out was a breeze!
The rear pads had substantial meat on them and I think they were good for several thousand more miles, but the wear sensor light was on, and it seemed silly to do 1/2 a brake job.
Inspection of rotors, boots and seals, followed be a cleaning of the caliper and wheel well area seemed like a good idea.
Pushing the caliper pistons in to allow the new pads to drop in was interesting. The pins seemed to react to each other, so when I pushed the top on in, the bottom one would poke back out a bit. I had a flat bit of wood flooring that allowed me to push them both in at the same time and that solved it. The pads just dropped in!
Sensors reinstalled, pad retainer clip in place, tap in the retainer pin and put the clip on it.
Replace the wheel and repeat for the other rear.
The fronts were a different story.... Everything was the same, except the pads did not want the come out of the caliper.
I ended up bending screwdrivers and finally tapping them out with a hammer and wooden dowel.
The fronts had way more wear than the rears, and one sensor, divers side, was pretty chewed up. Fortunately, thanks to Stefan, I had a sensor and it's very easy to install.
Pads all in, wheels back on, several low speed panic stops and everything seems fine.
Next stop- BRBS!!!!!
KtS
I last did brakes on my 02 986, but I don't think there is a real difference. My 02 was a base, and I think the pads might be different, but the job was about what I remembered.
The instructions on the Pelican Parts website are spot-on, and the images helped immensely. Read the instructions and make sure you have all the tools necessary before you start the job.
Remember, the 987 doesn't have a lug wrench! I forgot this little factoid, so I was forced to use a simple socket set with a 13mm socket and had to stand on it to get the tire bolts loose. Lesson learned, I picked up a lug wrench at the auto parts store.
Starting with the rears, once the wheel was off, I couldn't get the wear sensor out. I decided to leave it in and do the rest of the steps, then remove the sensor once the pads were free. This worked great and I avoided damaging the sensors by trying to force them out.
Remove the retainer clip that holds the pin that keeps the pads in place and tap out the pin with a screwdriver and hammer... Easy!
Remove the pad retainer clip and remove the sensor wire from its little clip takes a slight bit of wiggling, but it comes off easily.
Prying our the pads was a cinch! A screwdriver in the hole on the frame of the pad and out they came. I recommend using a cloth between the screwdriver and the caliper, otherwise you risk, as I did, scratching a bit of paint from the caliper while prying out the pads.
With the pads out, getting those sensors out was a breeze!
The rear pads had substantial meat on them and I think they were good for several thousand more miles, but the wear sensor light was on, and it seemed silly to do 1/2 a brake job.
Inspection of rotors, boots and seals, followed be a cleaning of the caliper and wheel well area seemed like a good idea.
Pushing the caliper pistons in to allow the new pads to drop in was interesting. The pins seemed to react to each other, so when I pushed the top on in, the bottom one would poke back out a bit. I had a flat bit of wood flooring that allowed me to push them both in at the same time and that solved it. The pads just dropped in!
Sensors reinstalled, pad retainer clip in place, tap in the retainer pin and put the clip on it.
Replace the wheel and repeat for the other rear.
The fronts were a different story.... Everything was the same, except the pads did not want the come out of the caliper.
I ended up bending screwdrivers and finally tapping them out with a hammer and wooden dowel.
The fronts had way more wear than the rears, and one sensor, divers side, was pretty chewed up. Fortunately, thanks to Stefan, I had a sensor and it's very easy to install.
Pads all in, wheels back on, several low speed panic stops and everything seems fine.
Next stop- BRBS!!!!!
KtS
A few comments:
1. Easiest way top push the pistons in: leave one old pad in place, use the other pad to lever the pistons back in with a pry bar, large screwdriver, or channel lock pliers. Go slowly and be gentle - no need to damage the rubber seals. I like to clean the pistons while fully extended with brake cleaner and maybe a soft brush to get rid of brake dust which forms a cement like paste. Marc suggested that. Prevents sticky calipers and works. Then do the other side.
2. Bleed the brakes when you do this. If it ~ 2 years, flush (completely replace) the brake fluid.
3. For lug nuts, get a breaker bar (1/2", 24") and 19mm long reach socket. Also a torque wrench ($20 HFT)
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
1. Easiest way top push the pistons in: leave one old pad in place, use the other pad to lever the pistons back in with a pry bar, large screwdriver, or channel lock pliers. Go slowly and be gentle - no need to damage the rubber seals. I like to clean the pistons while fully extended with brake cleaner and maybe a soft brush to get rid of brake dust which forms a cement like paste. Marc suggested that. Prevents sticky calipers and works. Then do the other side.
2. Bleed the brakes when you do this. If it ~ 2 years, flush (completely replace) the brake fluid.
3. For lug nuts, get a breaker bar (1/2", 24") and 19mm long reach socket. Also a torque wrench ($20 HFT)
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Laz - 9 years ago |
have never had an issue with using it in both directions. I got a Mac tools 19mm plastic sleeved deep socket to help prevent scraping the wheels' lug nut openings. Also, I got a Porsche scissor jack through eBay. Everything is kept in a small duffel bag in the rear trunk, along with one each of the couple incandescent bulbs the 981 uses.
I take a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers, place the bent end of them between the two tabs of the old pads and force the pliers open. The pliers should force the two pads apart and you'll be all set to get the new ones in without having to fiddle with the pistons.
Steve
Guards Red 1999
I'm not a race car driver, but I play one in 2nd and 3rd gear
Steve
Guards Red 1999
I'm not a race car driver, but I play one in 2nd and 3rd gear
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