Re: 2005 porsche 911 with 80,000 miles *NM* |  |  |
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| 2005 porsche 911 with 80,000 miles Seaman911 - 9 years ago |
| Not sure what you are asking. grant - 9 years ago |
As to value, it all boils down to price. In my opinion, condition is more important than miles, but value tables disagree with me.
In fact, there is some evidence that cars that are driven regularly are less susceptible to the one big engine failure mode these cars have- the IMS bearing.
Garage queens are typically the worst, although no one save porsche, really knows.
2005 is the first year of the updated car (type 997) which is generally an improvement.
How do you plan to use it?
What options/configuration?
Condition?
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 01:21PM by grant. (view changes)
In fact, there is some evidence that cars that are driven regularly are less susceptible to the one big engine failure mode these cars have- the IMS bearing.
Garage queens are typically the worst, although no one save porsche, really knows.
2005 is the first year of the updated car (type 997) which is generally an improvement.
How do you plan to use it?
What options/configuration?
Condition?
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 01:21PM by grant. (view changes)
| Re: Not sure what you are asking. Seaman911 - 9 years ago |
I agree with you about the mileage and proper care , But like you said some people rather to buy Porsche with low mileage, I think if the previous owner has taken a good proper care and maintenance the mileage should not be that important, also i did read these cars are made to drive and these one with more mileage are prompt to less issues that the garage queens.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 04:26PM by Seaman911. (view changes)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 04:26PM by Seaman911. (view changes)
| Re: 2005 porsche 911 with 80,000 miles db997S - 9 years ago |
Have you driven a 911? It is a very different beast than a Boxster. Some prefer the Boxster over a 911. Does it come with documents outlining the service history to see if it is one of those snake bitten cars or that the owner(s) took proper care of it? If you can find one, and the price isn't an issue, you might want to opt for a 2006 instead. Prior to that, there were issues with the IMS failures (need new engine) and RMS leaks (some chronic). The IMS issue supposedly became less prevalent in MY 2006 with a redesign of the IMS bearing. Of course, in 2009, Porsche completely designed the IMS out of its engines. There was a calls action settlement related to the IMS issue. Wonder if that's why this car is now up for sale? I'd definitely get the car inspected by a reliable Porsche mechanic before pulling the trigger.
| Re: 2005 porsche 911 with 80,000 miles *NM* Seaman911 - 9 years ago |
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 04:28PM by Seaman911.
(view changes)
| Sound liek you are on top of it. So do PPI grant - 9 years ago |
| Re: Sound liek you are on top of it. So do PPI Seaman911 - 9 years ago |
| For price, color, options, etc. I can't help you.... MarcW - 9 years ago |
You'll have to arrive at what you like or don't like, what you need or don't need, how much you think is ok to pay or too much.
What I can offer is be sure you give the car a thorough check out.
Arrange to visit the car ideally with the engine dead cold and get a test ride then a test drive.
The route wants to cover 15 miles or so and give you a chance to experience as a passenger then as a driver the car as you intend to use it.
Open the trunk and engine compartment lid, turn off the A/C and turn on the key and be sure all warning lights come on, especially the CEL, and all go off as soon as the engine starts or very very shortly after it runs.
Carefully listen to the engine for any abnormal or scary noises. Let the engine idle and you walk around the car ostensibly to check the body/paint (which you really want to check) but also to let the engine idle to near warmed up all time with an ear tuned to the engine.
After 10 minutes or so then have the seller take you on a test ride.
Once the engine is warmed up have the driver do a hard acceleration run from near idle up through at least one gear, say from 1st on into 2nd and up to redline before backing off and upshifting to a higher gear. The engine should pull smoothly and strongly from idle to redline and after the shift resume its pulling. Then once the drama is over the engine should settle into a nice smooth idle like nothing happened.
Back at the starting point then you take the car out and drive the car over the same route, driving the car the same way.
Even after your test drive the engine should not manifest any abnormal or scary noises.
If after the test ride and drive you still like the car then you give it a thorough used car check out. Get a copy of the CPO check list and use that as a guide doing what you can do working from the list. Assume nothing works until you verify it does work.
If after all of the above you still like the car and believe you can buy it for an agreeable sum then have the car PPI'd. This inspection will look for things you might have missed: body/paint work; signs of repairs under the car; leaks, and so on. The DME run time and over rev counters will be read.
Try to avoid falling in love with the car until you are sure it is the car for you and is worth owning.
Remember there is always another car.
Happy shopping!
What I can offer is be sure you give the car a thorough check out.
Arrange to visit the car ideally with the engine dead cold and get a test ride then a test drive.
The route wants to cover 15 miles or so and give you a chance to experience as a passenger then as a driver the car as you intend to use it.
Open the trunk and engine compartment lid, turn off the A/C and turn on the key and be sure all warning lights come on, especially the CEL, and all go off as soon as the engine starts or very very shortly after it runs.
Carefully listen to the engine for any abnormal or scary noises. Let the engine idle and you walk around the car ostensibly to check the body/paint (which you really want to check) but also to let the engine idle to near warmed up all time with an ear tuned to the engine.
After 10 minutes or so then have the seller take you on a test ride.
Once the engine is warmed up have the driver do a hard acceleration run from near idle up through at least one gear, say from 1st on into 2nd and up to redline before backing off and upshifting to a higher gear. The engine should pull smoothly and strongly from idle to redline and after the shift resume its pulling. Then once the drama is over the engine should settle into a nice smooth idle like nothing happened.
Back at the starting point then you take the car out and drive the car over the same route, driving the car the same way.
Even after your test drive the engine should not manifest any abnormal or scary noises.
If after the test ride and drive you still like the car then you give it a thorough used car check out. Get a copy of the CPO check list and use that as a guide doing what you can do working from the list. Assume nothing works until you verify it does work.
If after all of the above you still like the car and believe you can buy it for an agreeable sum then have the car PPI'd. This inspection will look for things you might have missed: body/paint work; signs of repairs under the car; leaks, and so on. The DME run time and over rev counters will be read.
Try to avoid falling in love with the car until you are sure it is the car for you and is worth owning.
Remember there is always another car.
Happy shopping!
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