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I have a 2000 986S with factory installed Litronics. After replacing a dead parking lamp bulb, all the bulbs in that assembly are non-functional (parking, blinker, high beam, low beam)

Here's what I did.
1. Check manual for bulb detail and replacement procedure. Seems easy enough.

2. Acquired bulb from Pelican.

3a. Opened front trunk, unscrewed carpet bolt and pulled carpeting away, pulled out rubber plug, inserted P-tool into hole and rotated it as the lamp assembly moved forward about a half inch.

3b. Removed bulb assembly from fender, unplugged wire harness, removed cap to access bulbs.

3c. Swapped bulbs by pulling parking lamp holder out of assembly, removed bulb from holder, very carefully handled new bulb and installed in holder with twist action to lock in place, replaced bulb holder into assembly, closed up cap.

3d. Plugged wire harness back in, slid lamp assembly back into fender (no easy task to get it started on the tracks to slide in), used P-tool per manual, loud clicking sound, assembly appears perfectly in place.

4. Test new bulb by turning on ignition and then headlights and confront failure. Nothing works in the assembly, not even the headlight which had worked with the original dead bulb. When I put on the turn signal, just the signal for that side, it clicks rapidly. I can see in the reflection from the car ahead that the front blinker isn't blinking; the rear blinker works ok but seems to be flashing at double speed.

5. Removed assembly again, checked wires.

6. Fuses check out ok.

So that's where we are. I have tried a few times to reinstall the light. I removed the other side, examined the connections, and reinstalled and it is working.

Help!
Try again:
Laz - 9 years ago
I recall that even with the wiring harness plugged in properly (be sure it's fully home!) if the headlight assembly isn't perfectly seated in the fender the lights won't work. Fast blinking with any car means a bulb is out, and in your case, obviously the whole assembly isn't working. Very carefully compare the position of this assembly to the one that hasn't been moved. You may finally see there's a difference, the moved one still being slightly forward or slightly high. Although there's nothing about the assembly that indicates its needing to be grounded to the fender, there's something to it. One would think the wiring plug would take care of the whole set of circuits. It can seem the assembly is properly run back on the fender tracks, but maybe not. And again, be sure you've really got the harness plugged all the way home.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/02/2014 02:20PM by Laz. (view changes)
Quote
catalogguy
I have a 2000 986S with factory installed Litronics. After replacing a dead parking lamp bulb, all the bulbs in that assembly are non-functional (parking, blinker, high beam, low beam)

Here's what I did.
1. Check manual for bulb detail and replacement procedure. Seems easy enough.

2. Acquired bulb from Pelican.

3a. Opened front trunk, unscrewed carpet bolt and pulled carpeting away, pulled out rubber plug, inserted P-tool into hole and rotated it as the lamp assembly moved forward about a half inch.

3b. Removed bulb assembly from fender, unplugged wire harness, removed cap to access bulbs.

3c. Swapped bulbs by pulling parking lamp holder out of assembly, removed bulb from holder, very carefully handled new bulb and installed in holder with twist action to lock in place, replaced bulb holder into assembly, closed up cap.

3d. Plugged wire harness back in, slid lamp assembly back into fender (no easy task to get it started on the tracks to slide in), used P-tool per manual, loud clicking sound, assembly appears perfectly in place.

4. Test new bulb by turning on ignition and then headlights and confront failure. Nothing works in the assembly, not even the headlight which had worked with the original dead bulb. When I put on the turn signal, just the signal for that side, it clicks rapidly. I can see in the reflection from the car ahead that the front blinker isn't blinking; the rear blinker works ok but seems to be flashing at double speed.

5. Removed assembly again, checked wires.

6. Fuses check out ok.

So that's where we are. I have tried a few times to reinstall the light. I removed the other side, examined the connections, and reinstalled and it is working.

Help!

You can "test" this perhaps eliminate this as a possible explanation by with the lights on give the headlight a real good push/shove back to see if you can get the lights to come on.

The wrench supplied to unlock and lock the headlight module is not real good. Once a headlight actually became loose on a particularly rough stretch of I-40 east of Flagstaff. The light went dark and when I checked it I found the module a bit wobbly in the fender. Took a real good shove to get the module fully back and a solid electrical connection. I use a quality socket and an extension and a rachet wrench when I need to remove/reinstall headlight modules.
Also check that the connector on the mounting plate hasn't shifted out of position. Mine had and it made getting proper contact for the lamps impossible.


The clip holding the plug (circled in photo) can come dislodged, causing the headlight to not plug in properly.

In a pinch if you can't get the clip mounted properly, you can pull back the plastic fender liner and hold the plug as you push the headlight in.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2014 02:48PM by Boxsterra. (view changes)
Thank you for the helpful information. I have carefully compared the placement and connections on the non-functioning driver's side to the perfectly functioning passenger side. I think I am clipping on the second harness sufficiently. The assembly seems to fit properly within the fender. But the other wire plug that is fixed in place on a plastic support is a bit more wiggly than the clip on the other side. It doesn't move much, but it moves more than the other one.
Here is the driver's side (problematic):


And this is the passenger side:


I would not mind removing the plug and reinstalling it, but I could not remove the plastic clip. It looks like the yellow surround might just pull out, releasing the plug. I pulled a bit but it didn't willingly come off.


To gain access to the plug from behind the lamp assembly, it seems the entire plastic fender well insert needs to come out.
is difficult to readjust should it get out of adjustment. I do not know if you can remove the insert or platform while keeping its adjustment unchanged. Maybe. But if you twist the wrong hardware you twist adjusters, not fasteners.

Based on a view of the pic and my memory of looking in that area with both my Boxster and my 996 I think the connector can be removed without removing the headlight platform. It is probably a "fiddly job", as the UK born techs at the local dealer describe, well, fiddly jobs to me. I would at least explore quite thoroughly doing what you need to do before you remove the platform.
Yes - it is possible to remove the mounting bracket without changing its adjustment. I recently had to replace my passenger side when the plastic around the metal bar cracked. The top brass coloured hex nuts (4 of them I think) need to be removed. Mine were really tight and did not want to budge but I was eventually able to remove all four. I do not remember having to loosen the 4 small hex topped bolts. The mounting plate should then lift off the posts. Be careful that the adjustment knobs do not turn when doing this. I was able to plop the new bracket on top of the post and retighten them without messing with the adjustments. The post themselves are complex little beasties.

The connector is held in place in the bracket with the yellow clip. The clip slides up and down - one way releases the connector the other way fastens it down. I think I recall it may have had a small latching mechanism to stop it moving and having to use a small screwdriver to release it. Good Luck!



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2014 04:36PM by Crooster. (view changes)
So today I was in the shop for a brake job, and got some help. It seems the plastic clip that holds the plug in the plastic upright holder had popped out of position, and one side was no longer seated in the slot. The tech was able to remove the clip and reassemble it. Voila.
Glad you figured it out. This is exactly what had happened to mine.
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)


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