Not in the gasoline and certainly not in the oil.
No good will come of it and it could cause harm.
Why?
Well from its contents.
The major component is "pale oil" CAS # 64742-54-7 which makes up of between 40 and 60% by weight of Seafoam.
What is 64742-54-7? It a complex combination of hydrocarbons obtained by treating a petroleum fraction with hydrogen in the presence of a catalyst. It consists of hydrocarbons having carbon numbers predominantly in the range of C20 through C50 and produces a finished oil of at least 100 SUS at 100.degree.F (19cSt at 40.degree.C). It contains a relatively large proportion of saturated hydrocarbons.
Pretty much the same base oil as is used in the manufacture of a number of oils.
Next comes "naphtha", CAS # 64742-49-0; and this makes up between 25 and 35 % of Seafoam. This is a feedstock for high octane gasoline and can be turned into a fuel for camp stoves, lighter fluid and a cleaner.
Third on the list: IPA. CAS # 67-63-0. Seafoam contains 10 to 20% of this stuff. What is this stuff? Isopropyl alcohol. This is widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils.
Dissolving oils? Not what I think I'd want to use in my Porsche engine's oil.
Really, your engine is not sludged up or in need of any cleaner or oil system flush. Any approved oil is a high detergent oil and has done all it can to keep solids suspended so they can be filtered out or drained out at oil change time provided you changed the oil at reasonable intervals.
Getting this noise sorted is job one. If after you get this noise sorted if you want to do a fuel system clean use a bottle of Techron as per directions. This will clean the fuel system and remove engine deposits.
Now back to the knocking noise.
Change the oil and filter. (BTW, while Motul oil is a good oil I vaguely recall that it is an oil that does not like long drain intervals.) Do as I suggested and dump the oil filter housing oil and the filter element into a *clean* drain pan. You do not want to see any substantial amount of any debris in this oil or in the filter element. If you do then that could be a clue. I'm thinking say you found rubber like pale green bits of material. This could be from a failing chain tensioner which suggests then the knocking is due to an insufficiently tensioned chain.
Knocking is not a symptom of an oil pump problem unless for some reason the oil pump is not supplying sufficient oil pressure.
I really don't believe the oil pump is at fault here but if you suspect the oil pump the proper thing to do is to test the oil pressure. The oil pressure would have to be pretty low at cold idle for the engine to knock due to lack of oil pressure. You would also hear valve lifter noise which you do not report hearing.
Don't want to get your hopes up but I recall that some MY cars that the oil pump could be responsible for a ticking sound. Well, not the oil pump per se but something in the vicinity of the oil pump. There is a TSB: TSB (ENU #1726) issued by Porsche in February 2006 for the replacement of the control piston in the oil pump (997.107.125.01 and 996.107.123.50 for the seal).
Another source of the noise is the dual mass flywheel. These on occasion go bad and can create a knocking sound. This is why it is critical you identify just where the noise is coming from.
If the engine is determined to be knocking internally this is a condition that requires expert diagnosis and expert attention to address. Even if I or anyone else correctly guesses what is going on someone is going to have to get his hands dirty to fix the problem.