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| Low coolant on 981 Boxster S 3.4L engine Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
I just drove the car about 300 miles yesterday. No issues. Ran great.
Today, I was going to role my car back a couple of feet, So put key into the ignition to undo the parking brake and immediately got a low coolant message. Checked under the car and everything is dry. No puddles or drips and haven't seen any in the past.
I opened the coolant cap and the red coolant float indicator was sitting on MIN and underneath was just damp (you can't see beyond/below that in the 981 setup). There was white residue inside the cap and also at the bottom of the threading (cap is threaded on the outside). There was also white residue around the threading in the fill area. There's also a little hole in the thread area that allows any overflow to drain to the outside.
I added a cup of distilled water. The little red float didn't move. However, when I turned on the ignition, the low coolant message was gone.
Just wondering if this is a faulty cap issue, which is allowing some coolant to escape when the engine is hot and coolant is under pressure.
Has anyone else experience this with their 981?
I called the dealer and I'm taking it there on Friday to have the cooling system pressure tested.
Today, I was going to role my car back a couple of feet, So put key into the ignition to undo the parking brake and immediately got a low coolant message. Checked under the car and everything is dry. No puddles or drips and haven't seen any in the past.
I opened the coolant cap and the red coolant float indicator was sitting on MIN and underneath was just damp (you can't see beyond/below that in the 981 setup). There was white residue inside the cap and also at the bottom of the threading (cap is threaded on the outside). There was also white residue around the threading in the fill area. There's also a little hole in the thread area that allows any overflow to drain to the outside.
I added a cup of distilled water. The little red float didn't move. However, when I turned on the ignition, the low coolant message was gone.
Just wondering if this is a faulty cap issue, which is allowing some coolant to escape when the engine is hot and coolant is under pressure.
Has anyone else experience this with their 981?
I called the dealer and I'm taking it there on Friday to have the cooling system pressure tested.
Laz - 9 years ago |
The one place I didn't check (for a possible oil mix-in) was the coolant filler……Just did and found the red float gizmo was sitting as low as it could be, that is, flush with the semi-platform inside the filler. Yikes! Unfortunately, the illo in the owner's manual is wrong, not showing that platform at all, but being that's as low as the float can go, that's got to be the allowable "Min." Not having any coolant in the house at all, I figured let me gingerly add some purified water (softened / Culligan under-sink system / Brita / SteriPen.) I put 8 ounces in a measuring cup and with barely a few milliliters, the float popped up, luckily sitting just below the more comprehensible Max mark. Oh, as to the point of the exercise, the cap and float area were immaculate (and dry: haven't driven in 24 hours.)
A couple more things the manual lacks: as far as I see, it doesn't give coolant capacity, nor type. And, not there, nor the internet, nor the dealer's resources can tell me what the "maximum speeds in gear" are.
Now, for a little fun, here's a clip of General Jack D. Ripper talking about precious bodily fluids:
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1KvgtEnABY[/video]
A couple more things the manual lacks: as far as I see, it doesn't give coolant capacity, nor type. And, not there, nor the internet, nor the dealer's resources can tell me what the "maximum speeds in gear" are.
Now, for a little fun, here's a clip of General Jack D. Ripper talking about precious bodily fluids:
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1KvgtEnABY[/video]
| Re: Amazing: both our cars are having "precious bodily fluids" issues. And you've done me a favor, too. Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
Sounds like your diagram and the one in my manual are different here. This is the picture in mine:
In the area around the lower part of the threads and the flat area below the threads (area A that I marked) there is some white residue around the whole area. At part C that I marked (at the bottom of the thread), there's a little hole that, I think, is for drainage of any overflow. You said that whole area was completely clean?
In the area around the lower part of the threads and the flat area below the threads (area A that I marked) there is some white residue around the whole area. At part C that I marked (at the bottom of the thread), there's a little hole that, I think, is for drainage of any overflow. You said that whole area was completely clean?
| Capacities Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
| Re: Thanks for the information. The 987.2 S having the 9A1 3.4, of course. matsporsche - 7 years ago |
Something important in Canada-how do you check the freezing point of the coolant without accessing the engine bay? The hose on my tester is too short to reach the reservoir. Any suggestions? Nobody has yet told me how to get the engine compartment liner out, and it appears access is now much more difficult than before. Actually, after just trying it, I can't even get my tester into the pipe to the reservoir. Another question--why do you use distilled water? I've never used anything other than tap water in any car I've owned. I can't see why, if the coolant isn't boiled, it would matter. Awfully fussy, isn't it? In batteries, of course.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/08/2016 10:14PM by matsporsche. (view changes)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/08/2016 10:14PM by matsporsche. (view changes)
| Re: Thanks for the information. The 987.2 S having the 9A1 3.4, of course. Guenter in Ontario - 7 years ago |
Unless you frequently add water, reducing the percentage of antifreeze, I don't think you need to worry about the freezing point of the coolant.
As far as adding distilled water, I think the concern would be adding a fair amount of water, or changing the coolant and using a 50 / 50 mix of antifreeze and water. In some parts of the country, the water can be quite hard and contain a lot of lime. This could lead to narrowing or clogging small water passages such as in the radiators. It's a lot cheaper to just use distilled water and keep things clear.
As far as adding distilled water, I think the concern would be adding a fair amount of water, or changing the coolant and using a 50 / 50 mix of antifreeze and water. In some parts of the country, the water can be quite hard and contain a lot of lime. This could lead to narrowing or clogging small water passages such as in the radiators. It's a lot cheaper to just use distilled water and keep things clear.
| Re: Thanks for the information. The 987.2 S having the 9A1 3.4, of course. matsporsche - 7 years ago |
I have added some water. I guess I'll just have to leave it up to the mechanic to check the antifreeze, unless I learn how to access the engine bay. What type of antifreeze should I use? The pink kind, or the green? It doesn't get very cold here on Vancouver Island, anyway. Have you ever accessed the engine bay on your car?
I'd sure like to know how to remove the bay liner, and how to put it back. The rubber retainer at the top is very stiff, making it very difficult the get the liner under it. I can't see how lime in water could get deposited if the water doesn't boil. It's in solution.
I'd sure like to know how to remove the bay liner, and how to put it back. The rubber retainer at the top is very stiff, making it very difficult the get the liner under it. I can't see how lime in water could get deposited if the water doesn't boil. It's in solution.
| Re: Thanks for the information. The 987.2 S having the 9A1 3.4, of course. Guenter in Ontario - 7 years ago |
I've never accessed the engine bay of my 981.
I'm not sure what the colour of the antifreeze was when I had mine topped up about a year ago. I would go with whatever the dealer recommends. I know the stuff in my 987 was pink.
As for the coolant temperature - your gauge will never show anything above 90 C or 194 F because Porsche has it programmed not to show anything above that. Until I had my first service done on my 981, it would show up to 94 C. At the first service, they did an electronic update put out by Porsche. After that, the coolant never showed more than 90 C. I asked the mechanic about it and he said that Porsche cuts it off at showing a max 90 C because they don't want people worrying when the temperature rises above that. So once the temperature reaches 90 C, you're depending on the idiot light to let you know the engine is running hot. I find in hot weather, it's a good idea to keep an eye on the oil temperature, which isn't capped.
Good to know that you can pop the liner of the coolant level check section to check the antifreeze if that becomes necessary.
I'm not sure what the colour of the antifreeze was when I had mine topped up about a year ago. I would go with whatever the dealer recommends. I know the stuff in my 987 was pink.
As for the coolant temperature - your gauge will never show anything above 90 C or 194 F because Porsche has it programmed not to show anything above that. Until I had my first service done on my 981, it would show up to 94 C. At the first service, they did an electronic update put out by Porsche. After that, the coolant never showed more than 90 C. I asked the mechanic about it and he said that Porsche cuts it off at showing a max 90 C because they don't want people worrying when the temperature rises above that. So once the temperature reaches 90 C, you're depending on the idiot light to let you know the engine is running hot. I find in hot weather, it's a good idea to keep an eye on the oil temperature, which isn't capped.
Good to know that you can pop the liner of the coolant level check section to check the antifreeze if that becomes necessary.
| The hot coolant can boil after a fashion... MarcW - 7 years ago |
Quote
matsporsche
I can't see how lime in water could get deposited if the water doesn't boil. It's in solution.
The coolant can develop small steam bubbles in the hottest areas of the coolant passages. These are swept away by the rushing coolant so they don't form larger steam pockets that block coolant flow.
It is not only lime, but other minerals in tap water can interfere with the anti-freeze's anti-corrosion additives and the additives that are to help lube the water pump seal.
| Valid question. It states U.S. gallons. Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
Laz - 9 years ago |
| All of the Canadian VW, Audi and Porsche owners manuals (actually, the BMW also) Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
have the units of measurement in metric units and the equivalent U.S. units. Maybe the thinking is that we're more likely to drive our cars to the US rather than the UK.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/14/2015 10:04AM by Guenter in Ontario. (view changes)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/14/2015 10:04AM by Guenter in Ontario. (view changes)
| A little more detailed look at the coolant system in the back of the 981 Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
I think this video has been shown before. When they remove the trunk liner to change the air filter, it shows the coolant check/fill area in more detail (about the 3:10 mark). Then near the end (about the 8 minute mark), when they have the cover off the top of the engine compartment where it shows the actual access to the coolant bottle and bleeder valve.
[www.youtube.com]
[www.youtube.com]
| I wish they had showed how to put the top into service position in more detail Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
I believe you have to reach through the rollbar hoops to undo something before you can raise the back of the roof. I remember a few people trying to gain access to the engine compartment when Porsche brought the 981's to preview at BRBS back in 2012. Nobody could figure out how to do it.
Hi Guenter
i have a 2013 981 S that had the exact same issue as you. When the car went into storage last fall there were no low levels indicated. (note i did not check the filler indicator). When i brought it out last week I got the same low coolant message you did. When I replaced the fluid l kept checking the little red dipstick in the filler and it stayed in the 'low' position. I added about 8 ounces of fluid with no change to position of the indicator. Thought that was odd so stopped filling. This was enough to extinguish the low coolant message. I spoke to service adviser and they told me that these cars will use a bit of coolant over time and this was normal. (Not sure i believe that yet, although i have a 2011 Cayenne turbo that does the same thing). Now here is the part that concerns me for future fills.. the little red dipstick was sticking during filling. So the first time i drove the car after it got to temp and the fluid expanded it leaked out the overflow in the cap. This appears on the left side rear of the car and causes quite a bit of steam and smell. Now the red indicator is at the full position. So in the future i will and coolant bit by bit and pick up the dipstick a bit to make sure it is free.
i have a 2013 981 S that had the exact same issue as you. When the car went into storage last fall there were no low levels indicated. (note i did not check the filler indicator). When i brought it out last week I got the same low coolant message you did. When I replaced the fluid l kept checking the little red dipstick in the filler and it stayed in the 'low' position. I added about 8 ounces of fluid with no change to position of the indicator. Thought that was odd so stopped filling. This was enough to extinguish the low coolant message. I spoke to service adviser and they told me that these cars will use a bit of coolant over time and this was normal. (Not sure i believe that yet, although i have a 2011 Cayenne turbo that does the same thing). Now here is the part that concerns me for future fills.. the little red dipstick was sticking during filling. So the first time i drove the car after it got to temp and the fluid expanded it leaked out the overflow in the cap. This appears on the left side rear of the car and causes quite a bit of steam and smell. Now the red indicator is at the full position. So in the future i will and coolant bit by bit and pick up the dipstick a bit to make sure it is free.
| Re: A little more detailed look at the coolant system in the back of the 981 Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
Thanks. That's good information to have. The service advisor at the dealer also told me that these cars use will use a bit of coolant. Mine had white residue on the inside of the cap (seems normal to me) but also on the outside threads of the cap (doesn't seem normal to me), which indicates that some coolant must have come out there. I checked the cap and the only rubber seal I could find was an O ring around the outside of the part that extends down from the middle of the cap. I was wondering if that sealed tight enough to keep some coolant from escaping when it was under pressure.
PS Blue981 - Are you the one with the blue 981 coming to BRBS from Ontario?
PS Blue981 - Are you the one with the blue 981 coming to BRBS from Ontario?
| Re: A little more detailed look at the coolant system in the back of the 981 Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
Quote
Blue981
Hi, That's me.. from Barrie, I tried last year but plans got messed up. Fingers crossed for this year.
Hope you'll make it down. I've NEVER seen this many Ontarians at BRBS before. You'll have a fantastic time. Scenery and people are great and those roads - they have Boxster written all over them.
the red pin popped up suddenly (not much range there!) because it could've been binding a little, so I gently poked it and it fortunately settled nicely just below Max. I don't think there will be an overflow issue when the car's driven again, because the amount of water added was so miniscule. Besides, I'd be happy to trade off a temporary coolant overflow for no more oil loss!
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/14/2015 01:48PM by Laz. (view changes)
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/14/2015 01:48PM by Laz. (view changes)
| Re: I'm glad I went very slowly and added just a few milliliters. Also, Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
Quote
Laz
the red pin popped up suddenly (not much range there!) because it could've been binding a little, so I gently poked it and it fortunately settled nicely just below Max. I don't think there will be an overflow issue when the car's driven again, because the amount of water added was so miniscule. Besides, I'd be happy to trade off a temporary coolant overflow for no more oil loss!
I thought the whitish residue might be coolant/antifreeze, but the Porsche stuff is pink. I doubt there'd be dust getting in there with the trunk being closed.
I'll have to try to give the pin a nudge and see if it will pop up.
I imagine that you saw Pedro's post on the oil level sensor. I'm still guessing that's were the problem is and at this point you might have an oil overfill, depending on how much oil you added.
Laz - 9 years ago |
I hadn't opened the coolant cap until a few days ago, so I don't know if mine originally had the yellow one as shown in my manual. An early servicing shows they replaced something called a "cagewith float" (sic) part # 981-106-155-00 that could be it. As previously mentioned, the red pin was slightly stuck in the minimum position even after I added water, but popped up with a little poke of my finger.
See this cooling system diagram, it's # 25:
[www.gaudinporscheparts.com]
See this cooling system diagram, it's # 25:
[www.gaudinporscheparts.com]
Quote
Laz
I hadn't opened the coolant cap until a few days ago, so I don't know if mine originally had the yellow one as shown in my manual. An early servicing shows they replaced something called a "cagewith float" (sic) part # 981-106-155-00 that could be it. As previously mentioned, the red pin was slightly stuck in the minimum position even after I added water, but popped up with a little poke of my finger.
See this cooling system diagram, it's # 25:
[www.gaudinporscheparts.com]
Sorry, I didn't ask any more about it. The service manager said that he had checked and there was nothing that came up as updates for my car. He said that there were some early cars that had to have the part (sounds like the one you had replaced.) replaced because of a sticking float. Sounds like yours is working and maybe just had the dry residue causing it to stick until it got wet or "encouraged" to move. Just figured I'd give you an FYI.
The part in my car looks like the one in the diagram that I posted earlier.
Since this seems to have happened to a number of cars, I guess the 981's do lose some coolant over time, so a good idea to keep an eye on the level. I don't like the advice in the manual about not having to do anything until the warning message comes on.
Laz - 8 years ago |
The blue innards and part way up both its and the cap threads were wet. (Was dry the previous time.) The pin is at about the lower ⅓ point of its range; free-floating, as opposed to the upper third after I added a bit of water (see elsewhere in this thread.) At first I figured the system wasn't happy with the top-off, but when I screwed the cap back on, it made a definite stop the same way the oil cap does. When I had screwed it back on previously, it seemed to just progressively get tight until "mechanic's feel" told me to stop. (No, I wasn't cross-threading!) I think it wasn't fully home, and that's what allowed liquid to escape. Again, the cap should stop the same as the oil cap, and with their respective logos pretty much exactly aligned with the car width, and "right-side-up." Oh, I wiped dry the innards and the cap, and will check again sometime.
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Ok, mine isn't perfectly clean, but there's only the slightest deposit of whitish powder on the horizontal surface adjacent to the threads. I assume it's just dust or some such that settled around the cap.
I've assumed that the head of the red pin is the level indicator and should be above the semicircular platform that it passes through, but not above the Max line. I suppose my manual was printed well before the 981's production run started. My car's serial number indicates it's about the 500th built.
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2015 10:12PM by Laz. (view changes)
I've assumed that the head of the red pin is the level indicator and should be above the semicircular platform that it passes through, but not above the Max line. I suppose my manual was printed well before the 981's production run started. My car's serial number indicates it's about the 500th built.
Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2015 10:12PM by Laz. (view changes)
| Re: Low coolant on 981 Boxster S 3.4L engine Crooster - 9 years ago |
Quote
Crooster
How does the oil look Guenter? Hoping that's not where the coolant went!
The only way you can see the oil in a 981 (and a 987) is to undo the filter housing and look in there or drain the oil. There's no dipstick. (On the plus side, with the dipstck weight savings, I get an extra 0.0001 mpg)
If the coolant went into the oil, with the amount involved, the oil gauge should be showing an over fill. Also I had the oil changed before storing the car and there was no mention of anything unusual about the oil that came out of the car.
Laz - 9 years ago |
MikenOH - 9 years ago |
| Re: Low coolant on 981 Boxster S 3.4L engine gedwin - 9 years ago |
I recently had a similar issue with coolant on my 981 base.
1 month after I received my car new, I thought I smelled coolant burning off, so I checked the coolant level and the red stick was bottomed out. I added enough to float it. Checked it a couple times and it was still floating, though I still thought I could smell coolant. I didn't check again for about a year, and then got the low coolant warning. I topped it off and began to monitor it closely. Also thought I was smelling coolant more than in the past. It definitely was losing it somewhere, though no drips.
Took it to the dealer, and they claimed that the cap that is hidden in the service access area (not the cap in the trunk) was wet on the outside, so they replaced it.
When the car was returned to me the red stick was bottomed out again. So I called them to inquire, and was told to disregard the stick, as apparently it is not reporting accurately the status of the coolant. I was told you must look directly at the tank in the service area to determine accurately whether the coolant is low or not. He said they do not trust the red stick, and to not add any additional coolant based on the stick.
Since the cap replacement, after about 10 days, the coolant smell was gone, and all has been fine since, about 2 months. When I have a chance I will open the service access panel and look at the tank so I can see what he was talking about, but it bothers me that they consider the red stick to not working as designed.
He also said that they were getting many calls from owners with low coolant issues. Maybe it's just a run of bad caps, as experienced with older Boxsters.
1 month after I received my car new, I thought I smelled coolant burning off, so I checked the coolant level and the red stick was bottomed out. I added enough to float it. Checked it a couple times and it was still floating, though I still thought I could smell coolant. I didn't check again for about a year, and then got the low coolant warning. I topped it off and began to monitor it closely. Also thought I was smelling coolant more than in the past. It definitely was losing it somewhere, though no drips.
Took it to the dealer, and they claimed that the cap that is hidden in the service access area (not the cap in the trunk) was wet on the outside, so they replaced it.
When the car was returned to me the red stick was bottomed out again. So I called them to inquire, and was told to disregard the stick, as apparently it is not reporting accurately the status of the coolant. I was told you must look directly at the tank in the service area to determine accurately whether the coolant is low or not. He said they do not trust the red stick, and to not add any additional coolant based on the stick.
Since the cap replacement, after about 10 days, the coolant smell was gone, and all has been fine since, about 2 months. When I have a chance I will open the service access panel and look at the tank so I can see what he was talking about, but it bothers me that they consider the red stick to not working as designed.
He also said that they were getting many calls from owners with low coolant issues. Maybe it's just a run of bad caps, as experienced with older Boxsters.
Thanks. That could be my issue also. I did think I could smell coolant, but never saw any indication of a leak anywhere.
You can see that other coolant cap in the video I posted above. It looks similar the coolant caps on the 987's. I will get them to check that when I take the car to the dealer.
You can see that other coolant cap in the video I posted above. It looks similar the coolant caps on the 987's. I will get them to check that when I take the car to the dealer.
| It's a sign, G-Man Roger987 - 9 years ago |
| Re: It's a sign, G-Man Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
| Re: It's a sign, G-Man Roger987 - 9 years ago |
| Re: It's a sign, G-Man Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
| My 987.2 experience SteveJ (2010 987 base, manual trans) - 9 years ago |
| Re: My 987.2 experience Guenter in Ontario - 9 years ago |
Quote
SteveJ (2010 987 base, manual trans)
I replaced the cap last year at about this time and that solved my slow coolant leak. I just checked it today and had to add about 1 cup of distilled water to bring the level up to max. It appears that the rubber gasket deforms a bit over time.
Thanks Steve. The 981 has a different setup. It does have a cap similar to what the 987 has. But that is only accessible once you lift the engine cover off. There is another one on the left side of the trunk that can be used for checking the level and topping up the fluid. It's a completely different cap design. There's just one O ring. I have a feeling that this one allows some coolant escape when the coolant is hot and under pressure.
| Couple of things to keep in mind... MarcW - 9 years ago |
My info is the newer models have a much smaller range between the coolant level being too low, just right, and too full.
If one adds too much coolant or just distilled water the system can become overfilled and will lose this over time. This appears to be a leak when in fact it is the system adjusting the level of the coolant to find its natural (?) level.
The next thing is the system can lose coolant over time even if it is not overfilled. The water pump seal can leak. Probably only when the engine is shut off plenty hot and the heat load raises the coolant temperature and pressure. Techs tell me that a bit of stain -- dried antifreeze residue -- on the water pump casting is acceptable but it can't be too large -- the techs would not tell me what is too large -- and there can never be any signs of wetness. Any sign of wetness is a leak proper and warrants replacing the water pump.
Last but not least if one removes any coolant cap it is very important the cap be installed without any cross threading -- the older caps and tanks were prone to this -- and the cap must be properly tightened down. This takes more force than one might believe.
If one adds too much coolant or just distilled water the system can become overfilled and will lose this over time. This appears to be a leak when in fact it is the system adjusting the level of the coolant to find its natural (?) level.
The next thing is the system can lose coolant over time even if it is not overfilled. The water pump seal can leak. Probably only when the engine is shut off plenty hot and the heat load raises the coolant temperature and pressure. Techs tell me that a bit of stain -- dried antifreeze residue -- on the water pump casting is acceptable but it can't be too large -- the techs would not tell me what is too large -- and there can never be any signs of wetness. Any sign of wetness is a leak proper and warrants replacing the water pump.
Last but not least if one removes any coolant cap it is very important the cap be installed without any cross threading -- the older caps and tanks were prone to this -- and the cap must be properly tightened down. This takes more force than one might believe.
The tech checked the whole system, looked for signs of leakage and found none. They told me that the 981's redesigned system allows excess coolant to escape via the cap and out the little drain hole I described with the diagram of my earlier post. In total, of what I added and the mechanic added, it was down about 3/4 of a quart. Drove the car home (60 miles) and parked the car. I'll check the level once it cools down. I didn't smell any coolant.
Laz, the service manager told me he checked about any updates for my car and there weren't any. He said some of the early (2013's) had an issue with the sticking red float marker that you described. The dealer had replaced those units as per a bulletin put out by Porsche.
Laz, the service manager told me he checked about any updates for my car and there weren't any. He said some of the early (2013's) had an issue with the sticking red float marker that you described. The dealer had replaced those units as per a bulletin put out by Porsche.
It shows the overflow hose, reservoir, etc. Barring a defective cap or some other true leak somewhere, it seems to me coolant shouldn't be "lost," but captured by the reservoir tank.
[www.jimellisporscheparts.com]
You'll notice the image can be magnified.
[www.jimellisporscheparts.com]
You'll notice the image can be magnified.
| Re: Guenter, you might find the illustration at the supplied link edifying: Guenter in Ontario - 8 years ago |
Thanks for the link. Lots of detail in that diagram.
I think I can see two places where some (tiny amounts) of coolant can escape.
#11 the Bleeder Valve, if there is excess pressure for some reason.
#2 cap. I know there's that small hole that's a return at the bottom of the thread. (before I saw the diagram, I thought that hole drained to the outside.) But once it gets up higher on the treads, some could evaporate. It would have to be very small amounts as it would be evaporating into the trunk. I just don't see the outside threads of the cap being completely water tight. I've never noticed any moisture in the trunk above the cap, but I'll keep an eye on it from now one.
It might be enough to be noticeable over several years. It just seems like too much of a coincidence that there have been a number of 981 owners having this low coolant warning come up lately.
The other thing the dealer mentioned was that there could be some air pockets from the factory fill. Once those bubbles/pockets work their way out, it would appear that you're low on coolant. I recall that a little over a year after I got my 06, I noticed the coolant being low (no message at that point - just a fluid check before heading to our first BRBS). Took it to the dealer. They did a pressure check and couldn't find any leaks. Didn't have to top it up again after that. Maybe that was because of air pockets from the factory.
I think I can see two places where some (tiny amounts) of coolant can escape.
#11 the Bleeder Valve, if there is excess pressure for some reason.
#2 cap. I know there's that small hole that's a return at the bottom of the thread. (before I saw the diagram, I thought that hole drained to the outside.) But once it gets up higher on the treads, some could evaporate. It would have to be very small amounts as it would be evaporating into the trunk. I just don't see the outside threads of the cap being completely water tight. I've never noticed any moisture in the trunk above the cap, but I'll keep an eye on it from now one.
It might be enough to be noticeable over several years. It just seems like too much of a coincidence that there have been a number of 981 owners having this low coolant warning come up lately.
The other thing the dealer mentioned was that there could be some air pockets from the factory fill. Once those bubbles/pockets work their way out, it would appear that you're low on coolant. I recall that a little over a year after I got my 06, I noticed the coolant being low (no message at that point - just a fluid check before heading to our first BRBS). Took it to the dealer. They did a pressure check and couldn't find any leaks. Didn't have to top it up again after that. Maybe that was because of air pockets from the factory.
After reading this thread I checked my recently purchased CPO 2014 Boxster S. The red pin was bottomed out. I added 950 ml of 50/50 mix Porsche coolant/RO water and the pin returned to the maximum level. NOTE: Once the coolant reaches the float 50 ml is all it takes to raise the pin from bottomed out to maximum. I had the dealer check the system at the oil change service yesterday. They could find no leaks and the pressure test passed. The dealer has come to the conclusion that some air must get trapped in the system at the factory fill (as stated above) and it works it's way back to the reservoir over time. Since many seem to be experiencing the same issue there seems to be some credence to that conclusion.
Laz - 8 years ago |
after adding what I figured was less than an ounce, and giving it a gentle poke. It settled such that the "head" (the red pin looks like a box head nail) was fortunately just below Max. 50 ml is more like 1.7 oz, so perhaps I added that much, but didn't notice the water in the measuring cup drop by that amount.
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2015 08:26AM by Laz. (view changes)
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2015 08:26AM by Laz. (view changes)
| Re: Thank you for your input, Vince. The pin in mine was bottomed & slightly stuck, but popped up… Vince - 8 years ago |
Actually, I added the 950 ml. I lifted the red pin before I did anything to make sure it was free. I had not yet received the "Low Coolant" message. Perhaps it goes into "alarm" at 1 liter? I had the dealer check the system when it was in for the 10K mile service and they found nothing wrong.. And yes, this thread is a very good resource.
| Also, "how low can you go?" to trigger the warning. - see my post below. Guenter in Ontario - 8 years ago |
My guess is that Vince was pretty close to triggering the "low coolant" warning.
After I had the warning come on, I added about 250 ml. Then another 100 ml. That turned off the warning (didn't check between the first and additional top up, was just trying to move the pin). When I took the car to the dealer to have them pressure test and check it, they told me they added another 500 ml. So between what Vince had added and what I had added to top up the system, I'd say this would be a guide:
Difference between red float/pin at MIN and MAX is about 50 ml
Low Coolant warning means you have to add roughly 800 - 900 ml (27 - 30 oz.) to top up the system.
I'm not sure why Vince didn't get a warning with having to add 950 ml and I got the warning and "only" 850 ml had to be added (It could be that the dealer added a little more than 500 ml. They just said they added a half liter of coolant).
After I had the warning come on, I added about 250 ml. Then another 100 ml. That turned off the warning (didn't check between the first and additional top up, was just trying to move the pin). When I took the car to the dealer to have them pressure test and check it, they told me they added another 500 ml. So between what Vince had added and what I had added to top up the system, I'd say this would be a guide:
Difference between red float/pin at MIN and MAX is about 50 ml
Low Coolant warning means you have to add roughly 800 - 900 ml (27 - 30 oz.) to top up the system.
I'm not sure why Vince didn't get a warning with having to add 950 ml and I got the warning and "only" 850 ml had to be added (It could be that the dealer added a little more than 500 ml. They just said they added a half liter of coolant).
Laz - 8 years ago |
But since its 986 inception there've been reports reservoir failures. Admittedly, I could be inflating the failure of a few because of the decade-plus timespan. Come to think of it, my 986's had to be changed; fortunately under warranty.
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2015 02:18PM by Laz. (view changes)
Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2015 02:18PM by Laz. (view changes)
If the dealer added 950 ml of coolant, you must have been pretty close to getting the low coolant message.
After my low coolant message came on, I had added about 350 ml of distilled water and the dealer added 500 ml of antifreeze/water mix for a total of 850 ml. That's about 28 oz.
So it looks like once you get a low coolant message, it seems you have to add somewhere around 800 - 900 ml (27 - 30 oz.) of coolant to top it up. And from what Laz was saying, if it's only the red pin/float is bottomed out, all you need to add is about 50 ml (1.7 oz.).
I figure good info to have on hand. It would nice if they had that in the manual.
After my low coolant message came on, I had added about 350 ml of distilled water and the dealer added 500 ml of antifreeze/water mix for a total of 850 ml. That's about 28 oz.
So it looks like once you get a low coolant message, it seems you have to add somewhere around 800 - 900 ml (27 - 30 oz.) of coolant to top it up. And from what Laz was saying, if it's only the red pin/float is bottomed out, all you need to add is about 50 ml (1.7 oz.).
I figure good info to have on hand. It would nice if they had that in the manual.
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