Re: I found the dye and black light kit. It does have a warning.... |  |  |
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Boxsterra - 8 years ago |
| This one ... Pedro (Odessa, FL) - 8 years ago |
… works very well …
[www.harborfreight.com]
But you can do the test yourself.
All you do is remove the coolant cap (with a cold engine) and thread in the correct adapter.
Connect the manual pump to the adapter
Pump up to 15 psi
Watch the pressure gauge. If then system is fine it should hold the pressure.
If it's loosing pressure start looking for the leak.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
[www.harborfreight.com]
But you can do the test yourself.
All you do is remove the coolant cap (with a cold engine) and thread in the correct adapter.
Connect the manual pump to the adapter
Pump up to 15 psi
Watch the pressure gauge. If then system is fine it should hold the pressure.
If it's loosing pressure start looking for the leak.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
| Engine off and completely cold. *NM* Pedro (Odessa, FL) - 8 years ago |
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
The cold pressure test is ok, but it has its limitations. It takes a pretty bad coolant leak to leak when cold.
There is a poor man's cooling system pressure test that I've used a couple of times, once to find a leaking coolant tank.
Be sure the coolant tank is topped up but not too full. If you want to use/add a cooling system compatible dye do so at this time. Be sure the cap is on the tank securely. The cap and tank threads want to be clean of any residue and where the cap seats also clean of any residue.
Be sure you tighten the cap fully.
Then take the car for a drive. Be sure the A/C is off. During the drive there is no need to get all crazy just drive the car around town with lots of lower gear usage until the engine is fully up to temperature. You can know this by the fact the radiator fans should be coming on.
Back home then raise RPMs to 1K and hold until you or a helper hears the fans come on. At this time you might take the time to confirm both fans are running and blowing about the same amount of hot air out through the bottom of the car.
Let the fans run until they shut off then raise RPMs again and hold until the fans come back on. Shut off the engine.
The heat load will raise the temperature and pressure of the hot coolant. If there is a leak you'll smell it and most likely see it. Remember the coolant is hot so keep yourself a safe distance. Use a bright flashlight to look in the radiator ducts and under the car for any coolant leak sign. Look at the water pump and any hoses for any signs of coolant running down or just a drop of coolant. Use your nose. If you smell antifreeze there's a leak.
After the car cools down you can get it in the air -- back it up on ramps -- then use the black light to look for any signs of the dye you added. But the hot test will almost certainly have the beyond the slight seep phase to the point there is wet coolant and enough you know there is a leak and where it is.
The above test turned up a bad coolant tank that was only leaking a bit under optimum and rather rare conditions. But when I shut off the hot engine it didn't take any time for the hot coolant under pressure to force coolant out of the split in the tank. The coolant just gushed out.
To show you have subtle the tank leak can be I Iet the car cool down over night then the next morning added enough distilled water to bring the coolant level up to where it should be. There was no signs of any leak. I started the engine and drove the car a few miles through town to the dealer. There was no sign of any leak even at the dealer, although of course the engine was not nearly up to operating temperature. But the coolant tank certainly had a split in it. This was clear once the old tank was removed.
There is a poor man's cooling system pressure test that I've used a couple of times, once to find a leaking coolant tank.
Be sure the coolant tank is topped up but not too full. If you want to use/add a cooling system compatible dye do so at this time. Be sure the cap is on the tank securely. The cap and tank threads want to be clean of any residue and where the cap seats also clean of any residue.
Be sure you tighten the cap fully.
Then take the car for a drive. Be sure the A/C is off. During the drive there is no need to get all crazy just drive the car around town with lots of lower gear usage until the engine is fully up to temperature. You can know this by the fact the radiator fans should be coming on.
Back home then raise RPMs to 1K and hold until you or a helper hears the fans come on. At this time you might take the time to confirm both fans are running and blowing about the same amount of hot air out through the bottom of the car.
Let the fans run until they shut off then raise RPMs again and hold until the fans come back on. Shut off the engine.
The heat load will raise the temperature and pressure of the hot coolant. If there is a leak you'll smell it and most likely see it. Remember the coolant is hot so keep yourself a safe distance. Use a bright flashlight to look in the radiator ducts and under the car for any coolant leak sign. Look at the water pump and any hoses for any signs of coolant running down or just a drop of coolant. Use your nose. If you smell antifreeze there's a leak.
After the car cools down you can get it in the air -- back it up on ramps -- then use the black light to look for any signs of the dye you added. But the hot test will almost certainly have the beyond the slight seep phase to the point there is wet coolant and enough you know there is a leak and where it is.
The above test turned up a bad coolant tank that was only leaking a bit under optimum and rather rare conditions. But when I shut off the hot engine it didn't take any time for the hot coolant under pressure to force coolant out of the split in the tank. The coolant just gushed out.
To show you have subtle the tank leak can be I Iet the car cool down over night then the next morning added enough distilled water to bring the coolant level up to where it should be. There was no signs of any leak. I started the engine and drove the car a few miles through town to the dealer. There was no sign of any leak even at the dealer, although of course the engine was not nearly up to operating temperature. But the coolant tank certainly had a split in it. This was clear once the old tank was removed.
Any well stocked auto parts store should carry the dye. You'll need a black light too, unless there is a smart phone app for that.
Before you buy the stuff read the instructions on the bottle to see if there are any restrictions with which antifreezes it can be used and if the cooling system must be drained (flushed?) afterwards and refiled with fresh coolant.
Of course, when you find the leak before you fix it you could drain the system and then after the leak is fixed refill with fresh anti-freeze/distilled water mix.
Before you buy the stuff read the instructions on the bottle to see if there are any restrictions with which antifreezes it can be used and if the cooling system must be drained (flushed?) afterwards and refiled with fresh coolant.
Of course, when you find the leak before you fix it you could drain the system and then after the leak is fixed refill with fresh anti-freeze/distilled water mix.
Boxsterra - 8 years ago |
I'm no antifreeze expert but I believe DEX is an organic acid type (OAT) anti-freeze, similar to the Porsche anti-freeze. This is not to say the two antifreezes can be mixed.
But that the dye has a warning it is not compatible with DEX suggests the dye would not be compatible with the Porsche anti-freeze either. I would therefore seek a dye that is compatible with OAT anti-freezes.
However, it is my opinion a dye is unnecessary.
Generally any cooling system leak is going to be severe enough -- at least under some conditions -- that using dye is not necessary. There will be sufficient signs/evidence of a leak provided one looks the car over thoroughly there will be no need to use a dye.
A hot pressure test such as I described in an earlier post is one way to help make a leak quite visible/active. It was one such test that clearly brought to light a leaking coolant tank that had been leaking for a long time before hand.
In another case when a tech did this with my 996 Turbo it showed all 3 radiators were leaking as each was seeping coolant along the bottom of the radiator where the bottom tank joined the core (cooling section). I was actually seeing signs of a leak too. Puddles of water under each front corner of the car after I parked the car. But I was thinking it was melting snow, melting from the heat of the radiators as it was very cold some days where I was and with blowing snow had collected in the radiator ducts. With less on my mind I would have removed a glove and got some liquid on my fingers then goes into the hotel room and would have smelled anti-freeze and recognized the puddles of water were not from snow melt but from coolant.
Even if you do not do the hot pressure test if the system has been leaking -- you have had to add fluid -- there will be sufficient sign -- anti-freeze residue or stain -- that you will know where the leak is. But you need to get the car in the air so you can give the various possible leak areas a thorough examination.
You started out IIRC wanting to pressure test your car's cooling system. If you just want to pressure test the system for the experience then do so using a kit like Pedro pictured in an earlier post. No need to use any dye.
But that the dye has a warning it is not compatible with DEX suggests the dye would not be compatible with the Porsche anti-freeze either. I would therefore seek a dye that is compatible with OAT anti-freezes.
However, it is my opinion a dye is unnecessary.
Generally any cooling system leak is going to be severe enough -- at least under some conditions -- that using dye is not necessary. There will be sufficient signs/evidence of a leak provided one looks the car over thoroughly there will be no need to use a dye.
A hot pressure test such as I described in an earlier post is one way to help make a leak quite visible/active. It was one such test that clearly brought to light a leaking coolant tank that had been leaking for a long time before hand.
In another case when a tech did this with my 996 Turbo it showed all 3 radiators were leaking as each was seeping coolant along the bottom of the radiator where the bottom tank joined the core (cooling section). I was actually seeing signs of a leak too. Puddles of water under each front corner of the car after I parked the car. But I was thinking it was melting snow, melting from the heat of the radiators as it was very cold some days where I was and with blowing snow had collected in the radiator ducts. With less on my mind I would have removed a glove and got some liquid on my fingers then goes into the hotel room and would have smelled anti-freeze and recognized the puddles of water were not from snow melt but from coolant.
Even if you do not do the hot pressure test if the system has been leaking -- you have had to add fluid -- there will be sufficient sign -- anti-freeze residue or stain -- that you will know where the leak is. But you need to get the car in the air so you can give the various possible leak areas a thorough examination.
You started out IIRC wanting to pressure test your car's cooling system. If you just want to pressure test the system for the experience then do so using a kit like Pedro pictured in an earlier post. No need to use any dye.
I got the pressure test kit the other day from Harbor Freight. I plan to test later today or tomorrow.
My thoughts on the need for a test: My car has historically run hot. I have never had it tested for a pressure loss. Running the A/C with the fans that accompany it lowers the temperature a bit.
I do not have to add coolant (Reservoir level stays between the minimum and maximum.). I do not see any coolant spots on the garage floor. But, I have the condensation on the underside of the rear trunk whenever I drive. I also smell coolant after a drive. I replaced the cap recently, cleaning the threads carefully. No change in either symptom.
I want to be sure that I don't have an issue that will leave me stranded on the roadside.
I am interested in seeing if I have a pressure loss first, then I will do an underside visual.
Thanks all.
My thoughts on the need for a test: My car has historically run hot. I have never had it tested for a pressure loss. Running the A/C with the fans that accompany it lowers the temperature a bit.
I do not have to add coolant (Reservoir level stays between the minimum and maximum.). I do not see any coolant spots on the garage floor. But, I have the condensation on the underside of the rear trunk whenever I drive. I also smell coolant after a drive. I replaced the cap recently, cleaning the threads carefully. No change in either symptom.
I want to be sure that I don't have an issue that will leave me stranded on the roadside.
I am interested in seeing if I have a pressure loss first, then I will do an underside visual.
Thanks all.
| I believe that I found the problem... Tony in Whittier - 8 years ago |
I set out to do a more thorough cleaning of the reservoir threads, so I removed the plastic cover at the oil and coolant station. I saw that the ventilation (purge) valve top had a light yellow corrosion build up on it. So, I cleaned it off and vacuumed out the residue. I figured that something must be loose to cause the corrosion. I checked the nuts on the top of the valve and found that a few were relatively loose. I carefully snugged them up.
The next morning I did the pressure test. No pressure loss.
I took it out for a drive yesterday afternoon. Mid 70s air temperature. The engine coolant temperature improved from historic marks and stayed consistent. Very pleased.
This morning I see that there is still condensation on the underside of the rear trunk. Plus, I did notice the smell of coolant in the garage after my 15 return evening drive.
Improved situation, but I have to do the additional leak checks that others have suggested.
The next morning I did the pressure test. No pressure loss.
I took it out for a drive yesterday afternoon. Mid 70s air temperature. The engine coolant temperature improved from historic marks and stayed consistent. Very pleased.
This morning I see that there is still condensation on the underside of the rear trunk. Plus, I did notice the smell of coolant in the garage after my 15 return evening drive.
Improved situation, but I have to do the additional leak checks that others have suggested.
| The condensation on the underside of the trunk helped clue me in the cap was leaking.... MarcW - 8 years ago |
Quote
Tony in Whittier
I set out to do a more thorough cleaning of the reservoir threads, so I removed the plastic cover at the oil and coolant station. I saw that the ventilation (purge) valve top had a light yellow corrosion build up on it. So, I cleaned it off and vacuumed out the residue. I figured that something must be loose to cause the corrosion. I checked the nuts on the top of the valve and found that a few were relatively loose. I carefully snugged them up.
The next morning I did the pressure test. No pressure loss.
I took it out for a drive yesterday afternoon. Mid 70s air temperature. The engine coolant temperature improved from historic marks and stayed consistent. Very pleased.
This morning I see that there is still condensation on the underside of the rear trunk. Plus, I did notice the smell of coolant in the garage after my 15 return evening drive.
Improved situation, but I have to do the additional leak checks that others have suggested.
with my Boxster. Well, that and the tank level going down to the point the warning light came on and it took around a gallon of distilled water to bring the level back up to where it should be.
But the odor of anti-freeze was a sign my car's coolant tank was leaking. (And the tank leak could have accounted for some of the loss of fluid, too.)
A "hot pressure test" as I described in an earlier post was what I did which culminated with the coolant tank gushing hot coolant out through a split in its bottom as the hot coolant's pressure increased after I had shut down the engine.
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