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| Input (BTDT) on re-packing CV Joints grant - 8 years ago |
First the good news for those following the "saga" ---> the drive-shafts are out. Torch time, heat rules. "Tink"
Now, I have 3 options:
1. wipe out grease with newspaper/towels/fingers and re-pack
2. soak and scrub in solvent bath (big ole can and toothbrush) - then pack in new grease
3. #1 combined with aerosol brake cleaner - - then pack in new grease
Any suggestions? The latter two have some risk of a) corrosion between cleaning and re-packing and b) leaving some grease voids seep within the joint.
FYI I am doing all 4 and all 4 boots, of course.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Now, I have 3 options:
1. wipe out grease with newspaper/towels/fingers and re-pack
2. soak and scrub in solvent bath (big ole can and toothbrush) - then pack in new grease
3. #1 combined with aerosol brake cleaner - - then pack in new grease
Any suggestions? The latter two have some risk of a) corrosion between cleaning and re-packing and b) leaving some grease voids seep within the joint.
FYI I am doing all 4 and all 4 boots, of course.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
| Well, in the interim..... grant - 8 years ago |
I realized a) how hard it is to really get at the outer joint, and b) how easy it is to have the inner joint come apart in ways you don;t want. So i elected for leaving well enough alone, removing what liquefied grease i could, and packing in the new stuff.
And while i remember this job is messy and full of small challenges, i forget just how rotten it is :-)
One down, one to go.
G
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
And while i remember this job is messy and full of small challenges, i forget just how rotten it is :-)
One down, one to go.
G
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
| Re: Well, in the interim..... Guenter in Ontario - 8 years ago |
Quote
grant
I realized a) how hard it is to really get at the outer joint, and b) how easy it is to have the inner joint come apart in ways you don;t want. So i elected for leaving well enough alone, removing what liquefied grease i could, and packing in the new stuff.
And while i remember this job is messy and full of small challenges, i forget just how rotten it is :-)
One down, one to go.
G
If your old boots weren't torn, then there likely wouldn't be any contaminants like sand and other grit to damage the joints, so getting rid of what was relatively easy to get out and packing in new grease, should keep them going.
| Absolutely. I hope to *never* replace them... grant - 8 years ago |
That's why I do the boots (all 4) and grease every two years as preventative maintenance -- so that they wont fail and cause damage.
On our cars one cant replace the outer joint; only the inner. So if i allow the outer to fail, its $700-$900 or so for a new half shaft, plus *still* doing the inner joint (about 75-100 for a replacement, labor to pack extra).
G
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
On our cars one cant replace the outer joint; only the inner. So if i allow the outer to fail, its $700-$900 or so for a new half shaft, plus *still* doing the inner joint (about 75-100 for a replacement, labor to pack extra).
G
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
I have a little bit of grease splatting out of my LR outer joint. A very knowledgable friend mentioned the idea of using several small screws to secure the thing instead of the (non-serviceable) crimp-on method, in order to make it maintainable/serviceable. I think I see what he is getting at. Does it make sense?
| I dont think so, here's my take.... grant - 8 years ago |
Its easy enough to add grease to a crimped boot - pry off the clamp, use a syringe, put a new clamp on.
But there are problems:
1. you want to work grease into the joint, not simply add it to the expanse of the boot
2. you want to put in new grease as the old liquifies (on the track, it does)
3. You want to replace the boots regularly because, heaven forbid it breaks and dirt gets in, you are buying a new half-shaft
Its hugely time consuming to pull the two drive-shafts, and hugely messy to dis-assembly and grease them,
but i don't see a real alternative. For a street driven car, the only real issue is broken boots. Once again, you'd need to get the old one off and the new one on - which means it would need a seam (it would be a clam-shell). Those have been tried, but they are terrible, and, as you might imagine, don't hold up at hgih rpms (speeds).
What we really need is a silicone rubber, mesh impregnated boot. I keep thinking of doing some test marketing and making them - but the value proposition is meaningful only to a few people like us - the manufacturer/dealer probably sees replacement as a revenue opportunity *way* down the road, and how few of us will ever do a replacement twice.
I'm the curve wrecker doing it every two years preventatively for the track. BTW, my grease was turning to soup. In fact, when it gets hot on the track, it spits out of the vent hole on the end of the drive shaft. I bet few of you even knew it was vented - it is - there's small pin hold that goes from the end of the drive shaft (behind the actual hub cap) to the center of the CV joint.
I did the 2nd shaft *(already out of the car) in just over an hour. The first took twice that (with set up and clean up) and let's not discuss how long it took me to get them out of the car after i buggered the one nut. Obviously there's another buggered nut here.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
But there are problems:
1. you want to work grease into the joint, not simply add it to the expanse of the boot
2. you want to put in new grease as the old liquifies (on the track, it does)
3. You want to replace the boots regularly because, heaven forbid it breaks and dirt gets in, you are buying a new half-shaft
Its hugely time consuming to pull the two drive-shafts, and hugely messy to dis-assembly and grease them,
but i don't see a real alternative. For a street driven car, the only real issue is broken boots. Once again, you'd need to get the old one off and the new one on - which means it would need a seam (it would be a clam-shell). Those have been tried, but they are terrible, and, as you might imagine, don't hold up at hgih rpms (speeds).
What we really need is a silicone rubber, mesh impregnated boot. I keep thinking of doing some test marketing and making them - but the value proposition is meaningful only to a few people like us - the manufacturer/dealer probably sees replacement as a revenue opportunity *way* down the road, and how few of us will ever do a replacement twice.
I'm the curve wrecker doing it every two years preventatively for the track. BTW, my grease was turning to soup. In fact, when it gets hot on the track, it spits out of the vent hole on the end of the drive shaft. I bet few of you even knew it was vented - it is - there's small pin hold that goes from the end of the drive shaft (behind the actual hub cap) to the center of the CV joint.
I did the 2nd shaft *(already out of the car) in just over an hour. The first took twice that (with set up and clean up) and let's not discuss how long it took me to get them out of the car after i buggered the one nut. Obviously there's another buggered nut here.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
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