thank you very much - fiddly but simple! *NM* |  |  |
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Hi folks,
This pertains to my "street" boxster - 2004 986 base 5-sp 61k miles running like a top.
Irony - as i pull into the NJ state emissions inspection line for my two-year checkup, the "check engine light" comes on.
Grrr, i fail by definition. By i guess the nice part is that 30 seconds later someone is handing me a piece of paper with the code on it.
From what i research, this is the purge value, which i just went through with my Audi. On that car i cleaned it and all was well.
Some people seem to think this is the fault of the gas cap? Mistaken? I also thought that issue went away before 2004 production cars.
Any advice? BTDT e.g.: "its usually X"
Do i have to pull the wheel and the inner fender liner or can i access from inside front trunk?
TIA,
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
This pertains to my "street" boxster - 2004 986 base 5-sp 61k miles running like a top.
Irony - as i pull into the NJ state emissions inspection line for my two-year checkup, the "check engine light" comes on.
Grrr, i fail by definition. By i guess the nice part is that 30 seconds later someone is handing me a piece of paper with the code on it.
From what i research, this is the purge value, which i just went through with my Audi. On that car i cleaned it and all was well.
Some people seem to think this is the fault of the gas cap? Mistaken? I also thought that issue went away before 2004 production cars.
Any advice? BTDT e.g.: "its usually X"
Do i have to pull the wheel and the inner fender liner or can i access from inside front trunk?
TIA,
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
| Here is a link to a RennTech article jg wnc - 8 years ago |
| Two questions, fiarly simple grant - 8 years ago |
1. How does one remove the plastic rivets in the fender liner. Presumably pull out the inner shaft and then remove.
They are so tight, they simply break off. Maybe the answer is "buy new ones"?
2. Which is the "inlet hose"? The vacuum hose that activates the valve? The purge air hose? the components shown (PDF, Bentley) are:
1 – EVAP canister purge valve
2 – EVAP canister
3 – Purge air <-- or this?
4 – Tank
5 – Pressure sensor
6 – Shutoff valve
7 – Operating purge valve
8 – To intake manifold <--- or this?
9 – Vacuum control valve
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
They are so tight, they simply break off. Maybe the answer is "buy new ones"?
2. Which is the "inlet hose"? The vacuum hose that activates the valve? The purge air hose? the components shown (PDF, Bentley) are:
1 – EVAP canister purge valve
2 – EVAP canister
3 – Purge air <-- or this?
4 – Tank
5 – Pressure sensor
6 – Shutoff valve
7 – Operating purge valve
8 – To intake manifold <--- or this?
9 – Vacuum control valve
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Can't remember if this helped, but I had my 986's liners out once, and didn't break any of the rivets. How 'bout prying them a bit with a flat blade screwdriver and shooting some WD-40 into the liner perfs? I think I just gingerly (so as not to crush) grabbed each one with a plier, twisting as I coaxed them out.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2016 01:48PM by Laz. (view changes)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2016 01:48PM by Laz. (view changes)
| lubricant may help. Mostly past that now :-( *NM* grant - 8 years ago |
Gas cap.
Sorry. Couldn't resist.
My research suggests it is because the DME mistakenly believes the fuel shut off valve doesn't open because the inlet hose is blocked. I think the only way to get to this is to remove the right front wheel, wheel liner, and then disconnect the inlet hose and see if the hose is blocked with something.
Sorry. Couldn't resist.
My research suggests it is because the DME mistakenly believes the fuel shut off valve doesn't open because the inlet hose is blocked. I think the only way to get to this is to remove the right front wheel, wheel liner, and then disconnect the inlet hose and see if the hose is blocked with something.
| thank you very much - fiddly but simple! *NM* grant - 8 years ago |
| update and question about resetting CEL grant - 8 years ago |
First, apparently 2004 MY are configured differently from earlier ones and don't follow the flow diagram ( at least mechanically) in the manual. There is an additional component well forward in the wheel well - and that appears to be where the purge line terminates, before routing back to the charcoal canister.
Anyway, i finally seemed to have it figured out, disconnected that purge line, and blew using a compressor back through it. I didn't have a rubber conical seat, so i could not make a good seal, but not all that much air was backing up and getting around my hand, so SOME of it must have been continuing through the line - meaning it is not completely blocked. Unclear how this would get blocked anyway....
Put it all back together (ps: yes lubrication helps the rivets, live and learn). I still have the code and the CEL - but as i recall many CELs must be shut off with an OBD-2 device/PIWIS (or the doohickey i just bought from Pedro...). Does anyone know if that is the case? Or, since i still have the code and the active CEL, does that mean I failed to effect the repair?
TIA,
Grant
ps: the CEL on my other car (track car, street legal, 2000 S) seems to have reset itself over the winter (O2 warm up efficiency below threshold?) - in other words, old age.
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Anyway, i finally seemed to have it figured out, disconnected that purge line, and blew using a compressor back through it. I didn't have a rubber conical seat, so i could not make a good seal, but not all that much air was backing up and getting around my hand, so SOME of it must have been continuing through the line - meaning it is not completely blocked. Unclear how this would get blocked anyway....
Put it all back together (ps: yes lubrication helps the rivets, live and learn). I still have the code and the CEL - but as i recall many CELs must be shut off with an OBD-2 device/PIWIS (or the doohickey i just bought from Pedro...). Does anyone know if that is the case? Or, since i still have the code and the active CEL, does that mean I failed to effect the repair?
TIA,
Grant
ps: the CEL on my other car (track car, street legal, 2000 S) seems to have reset itself over the winter (O2 warm up efficiency below threshold?) - in other words, old age.
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
| Re: update and question about resetting CEL MarcW - 8 years ago |
Quote
grant
First, apparently 2004 MY are configured differently from earlier ones and don't follow the flow diagram ( at least mechanically) in the manual. There is an additional component well forward in the wheel well - and that appears to be where the purge line terminates, before routing back to the charcoal canister.
Anyway, i finally seemed to have it figured out, disconnected that purge line, and blew using a compressor back through it. I didn't have a rubber conical seat, so i could not make a good seal, but not all that much air was backing up and getting around my hand, so SOME of it must have been continuing through the line - meaning it is not completely blocked. Unclear how this would get blocked anyway....
Put it all back together (ps: yes lubrication helps the rivets, live and learn). I still have the code and the CEL - but as i recall many CELs must be shut off with an OBD-2 device/PIWIS (or the doohickey i just bought from Pedro...). Does anyone know if that is the case? Or, since i still have the code and the active CEL, does that mean I failed to effect the repair?
TIA,
Grant
ps: the CEL on my other car (track car, street legal, 2000 S) seems to have reset itself over the winter (O2 warm up efficiency below threshold?) - in other words, old age.
While some error codes will get erased after a while provided the problem is no longer detected after so many engine start/warm up cycles, to expedite things better you use an OBD2 code reader and extinguish the CEL by erasing the code or codes that triggered the CEL.
After, road test the car.
*If* the CEL comes back on and the code is the same then you know you didn't fix the problem.
In the case of your 2000 what probably happened is battery power was lost at some point over the winter storage and the code was erased. I believe it unlikely the DME could erase the code at engine start.
| You can erase the CEL ... Pedro (Odessa, FL) - 8 years ago |
... by disconnecting the negative side of the battery for more than 30 seconds.
If the problem was fixed by blowing air through the line the CEL will stay off.
If the problem persists, it will come back.
Note that this is not instantly.
You must give it several engine cycles to see if stays off.
Happy Boxstering
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
If the problem was fixed by blowing air through the line the CEL will stay off.
If the problem persists, it will come back.
Note that this is not instantly.
You must give it several engine cycles to see if stays off.
Happy Boxstering
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
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