If you don't have the ...

Hello all, I do believe this is my first post here. Thank you in advance for the assistance. I recently purchased a 1997 Boxster from someone with a few issues that I have been successful with clearing up so far. The last real issue I am having has to do with the inability to lock the doors or set the alarm. For simplicity, I'll list the symptoms in bullet format below.

- Utilizing the remote: the car doors will not lock themselves and a momentary sound can be heard of motors cycling in the fuel filler door lock motor, as well as down by the driver side rocker panel, and possibly the front and rear trunks. All this is followed by two beeps of the horn which I know signifies something wrong with the theft deterrent system. Also, rapid momentary flashing of the alarm status light on top of the dash pad while all of this is going on. Lights on the remote control/key seem to be normal although I have not changed the battery.

- Utilizing the key: Before I took the drivers door panel off, the key felt as if there was little resistance when trying to use it to unlock the door and could actually be spun 360 degrees. After removing the door panel I realized that the 'paddle' that should extend from the lock cylinder into the lock mechanism/solenoid itself is just not even there. The action of the key in the door lock is rough as well which leads me to believe the lock cylinder or the key are getting pretty worn out. Just to note, the key does start the car, however the ignition tumbler feels a little worn out also. The key also lock/unlocks the center console storage bin.

- Door lock mechanism/solenoid. Since the 'paddle' is not present to transfer the action of the key being turned, I thought I was onto something. I grabbed a flat blade screwdriver and duplicated the action of the key directly to the lock mechanism (left/right, etc.) but got the same results as using the remote when attempting to lock/unlock. Of note, I was able to roll the windows up and down this way.

- Miscellaneous findings: Window drop on both sides of the car works with the outside handles; I haven't actually thought to try it from the inside. The interior handle microswitches are plugged in; however the one on the drivers side I noticed was disconnected when I removed the door panel initially.

Possible (low cost) solutions:

- Drivers Door Lock Cylinder: obtain a used one with the 'paddle' assembly which I am missing, along with a key. Problem here is you end up having two keys; not optimal but I could live with it. It also doesn't solve the real issue.
- Re-key the entire vehicle: Obtain the above along with the matching ignition lock cylinder and interior bin lock; swap the pill inside the transmitter. I assume for this I will have to use my current processor (?) attached to my current ignition lock, but the ring on the new ignition lock can be used since I believe it simply transmits the signal from the pill. Still doesn't solve my real issue but at least I will be able to actuate the door lock mechanism with the key, and possibly have smoother operation with both the door and ignition locks. Note, I did change the ignition switch already because it was not springing back from the start position - that issue is fixed.

So now, given the above information, what do you all recommend? I read that there might be a sequence to follow when connecting/disconnecting the battery - this I have not done. Are there any other tests I should try? The M535 (I think) processor on the floor looks to be in good condition.

Thanks for your time and sorry for the long post!! :-)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/28/2016 09:22AM by june82000. (view changes)

You checked the physical condiition of the security module on the floor under a seat and found it free of any signs of water damage.

You should also check both doors are free of any water build up. There should be no dampness at the bottom of either door. The door membrane can come loose or perhaps get torn when someone has been at the door's innards and a compromised door membrane can allow water to get where it shouldn't.

Since the car is new to you and thus a bit of an unknown, you should carefully check the car over for any signs of rodent damage.

Really I don't believe you'll find the doors wet or signs of rodent damage. Doesn't mean you shouldn't check though.

A Porsche shop equipped with a Porsche diagnositic computer could query the security module for any error codes and from this one would have a clue as to what is going on. A Durametric -- an aftermarket Porsche diagnostic computer clone/look-alike -- I believe could also be used.

I suspect this has been a problem for a while and explains why the door key lock tumbler mechanism is worn out.

Without the error codes there are a lot of expensive hardware in the doors. That the drive door key lock mechanism is shot suggests the door lock assembly -- one of the most expensive electro-mechanical items -- could be bad. A bad one of these can affect the entire car's security system.

You really need to consider obtaining the codes.

I believe you can order the key tumbler with the same key pattern as what you currently have. There are only a handful of different key blade patterns. But you'll have to check with a good Porsche parts departmant manager to see what's available.

If you can't get the same key pattern in a new tumber, then you would be forced to "rekey" the car you would need a new ignition tumbler and door lock tumbler and a center console tumbler all of course with the same key pattern, assuming all of these are vailable separately. You could order new blades for the keys and just swap blades. For the valet key you'd need a new key and the key's RFID would have to be added to the car's security system. The old valet key's RFID removed. There's not much extra space so any no longer used key's RFID wants to be removed.

The fact that the car iOS beeping twice and not letting you lock tells me that the Central Locking Unit is functional.
When a door locking mechanism goes bad it generally displays the symptoms you describe: It tries to lock and it may for a brief second and then doesn't and gives you an error (2-beep) message.
Replace the faulty mechanism and it generally works well.
The missing paddle you'll have to source, otherwise the door key will not be functional.
The tumblers are transferrable to a new unit. No need to re-key, just transfer over the mechanism.
The issues you describe generally happen mostly to the driver's door, but model year '97 (only) has a tumbler mechanism on the passenger door as well so make sure you check them both.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

Pedro/MarkW, thank you.

I actually don't remember having a door lock on the passenger side but I will check this evening. Now you have me wondering...

I was able to source a matching lock set with key for the door/ignition and storage bin including the little paddle I need. To answer marks question, the CLU looks to be in good condition and the PO said that he had to pay to have it replaced at some time due to water intrusion (terrible design by the way). With the parts I'm getting I should be able to swap out the lock cylinders and the pill like you mentioned Pedro and at least be a little closer to having a fully functioning car. I really want to be driving it now, but I figure I should take the time to fix everything I can while I've got it all apart.

Thanks all...

Dave

Quote
june82000
Pedro/MarkW, thank you.

I actually don't remember having a door lock on the passenger side but I will check this evening. Now you have me wondering...

I was able to source a matching lock set with key for the door/ignition and storage bin including the little paddle I need. To answer marks question, the CLU looks to be in good condition and the PO said that he had to pay to have it replaced at some time due to water intrusion (terrible design by the way). With the parts I'm getting I should be able to swap out the lock cylinders and the pill like you mentioned Pedro and at least be a little closer to having a fully functioning car. I really want to be driving it now, but I figure I should take the time to fix everything I can while I've got it all apart.

Thanks all...

Dave

There is not a key hole/tumbler in the passenger door but there is a door lock controller -- a rather large alum/plastic enclosure with some electro-mechanicals inside -- that in my experience with my car can go bad. The symptoms were a window failing to drop when a door handle was pulled or worse dropping but after the door was opened going up again. Another symptom was the car locking on its own -- the lock LED on the dash button would light up -- and even though I pushed the unlock button and the LED would go off as I heard the doors unlock sometimes the LED would come right back on again concurrent with the sound of the doors locking. The last symptom was once in a while the horn sounding an alarm like a door or trunk lid was ajar when I locked the car.

... key lock on the passenger door you may have a late '97.
All of the 1996 (RoW) cars and most of the '97s have it.
It was eliminated on model year 1998 ( some of which were manufactured in 1997 - like mine).
Happy Boxstering
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

Quote
Pedro (Weston, FL)
... key lock on the passenger door you may have a late '97.
All of the 1996 (RoW) cars and most of the '97s have it.
It was eliminated on model year 1998 ( some of which were manufactured in 1997 - like mine).
Happy Boxstering
Pedro

Pedro/Mark,

I checked and even though it's a '97 (4/97), it doesn't have the lock on the passenger side. I agree, it could have something to do with the locking mechanism so I'm going to do some reading on how to isolate and test the unit. I do hear audible clicks when rotating the plastic 'key hole' piece on the driver side lock mechanism with a screwdriver. The alarm does try to set itself, and the windows will roll up and down that way as well, just no actuation of the lock(s) on either side. I think if I can figure out why the locks aren't being actuated then I may have the entire problem figured out.

Edit; So upon doing some reading, I found all of the components/modules/switches associated with the alarm system of which a couple stand out to me. The convertible top compartment lid switch; the convertible top closed switch; and the alarm contact for the radio. I assume you'd be able to set the alarm with the top down - perhaps either one of you can verify. I also just realized that I didn't try to set the locks by using the central locking button; only the remote. I doubt it will work, but I will be trying it when I get home this evening.

Edit #2: Doing some more reading and found someone with a similar issue and they never heard any sounds from the driver side door lock module when activating the alarm. I'm pretty sure I haven't heard any sounds either from the driver side, but pretty sure I have from the passenger side. Hmmm....



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2016 09:13AM by june82000. (view changes)