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Greetings,
Thought I had looked everywhere, but just found jackintheboxsters post about 20 down, it may help.
2001 Boxster S, three button remote, good battery.
No internal water damage.
Over the last 6 months, I've gotten an intermittent double chirp when locking with the remote indicating a fault (every fourth or fifth time I locked the car with the remote).
It finally got the point the remote wouldn't lock or unlock the doors or trunks.
An indie ran the codes and replaced a faulty passenger door lock.
Now, the remote still doesn't lock or unlock the car, but all three buttons will illuminate the light, no chirps.
Shop says that either the circuit board is bad or the car needs to relearn the key.
I've been through the "new key" shakedown at the dealer.
I have not used a magnifying glass to look at the circuit board in the remote.
I've tried all the incantations found on the internet and used GPS to pray toward Zuffenhausen.
I will not be close to the car again until Monday afternoon.
Questions:
Is there a way to test remote output?
Will a dealer usually give you the immobilizer code for your car (first 7-8 numbers are the key-learn number).
Any other troubleshooting ideas before purchasing a new key head?
Thanks in advance!
Quote
jfarris
Greetings,
Thought I had looked everywhere, but just found jackintheboxsters post about 20 down, it may help.
2001 Boxster S, three button remote, good battery.
No internal water damage.
Over the last 6 months, I've gotten an intermittent double chirp when locking with the remote indicating a fault (every fourth or fifth time I locked the car with the remote).
It finally got the point the remote wouldn't lock or unlock the doors or trunks.
An indie ran the codes and replaced a faulty passenger door lock.
Now, the remote still doesn't lock or unlock the car, but all three buttons will illuminate the light, no chirps.
Shop says that either the circuit board is bad or the car needs to relearn the key.
I've been through the "new key" shakedown at the dealer.
I have not used a magnifying glass to look at the circuit board in the remote.
I've tried all the incantations found on the internet and used GPS to pray toward Zuffenhausen.
I will not be close to the car again until Monday afternoon.
Questions:
Is there a way to test remote output?
Will a dealer usually give you the immobilizer code for your car (first 7-8 numbers are the key-learn number).
Any other troubleshooting ideas before purchasing a new key head?
Thanks in advance!

Not sure I agree about that car has to relearn the key thing. The key's ID is written to non-volatile memory. Obviously as this info is retained even when the battery power is lost. This memory is not written to under normal circumstances. It requires some security info to access so the memory is not likely to get corrupted.

My 2nd hand info is if there is a problem the security module will issue an error code -- it may not log this and even if it does this might not turn on the CEL. This can be something like key not recognized, or no key ID received or something like that.

The problem could be with the key. But there could also be a problem with something else. I've been through at least one key but I can't recall now what happened exactly. But I have also had the passenger side door lock controller (large-ish alum./plastic box inside the door) go bad. The symptoms though were different than what you are reporting.

There is the antenna that receives the key's RF signal, too. The connection can be bad -- possibly due to age/corrosion.

Do you have a spare key to try?
As MarcW says, once the code is programmed into the car it will not change or be dropped.
The car has enough memory to hold four (4) remote codes. If a fifth code is programmed, it will be written over the first one, which will be lost.
There is a way to test the remote. You'll need a spectrum analyzer which samples the air waves for any radio frequencies.
I've seen a ton of times where the remote's LED is brightly lit, yet it will not work.
That's when I ned to carefully look at all of the foil connectors on the printed circuit board looking for breaks on the foil or cold solder points.
The dealer will supply you with the IPASS codes when requested. You'll need to show proof of ownership and the dealer may charge for the service.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)


Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
Marc - I don't have a second remote.
Great answers - this forum provides awesome support to Boxster owners!!!
I'll week on all that next week and let everyone know what I found.
In the meantime Maggie Valley NC at 3,800 ft is a lot nicer than Birmingham!
Rafting on the Tuckasegee River was a nice diversion from car problems.
Tested key at Autozone display - light flashing and their receiver said a signal was being sent.
Back to the indie for discussion.
The tech (worked at dealer when Boxster introduced) checked to see if immobilizer was recognizing a signal sent by key fob remote - no signal. Tech says in 12 years of working on similar P cars, he has never seen an RF sensor fail, only keys (fobs).
Ordered key fob from Suncoast.
Got the immobilizer code from Pcar engineer (friend). Code is LNNLNL (letters and numbers). I expected a longer sequence.
QUESTION: Can anyone confirm that an immobilizer code is a series of six letters and numbers?
Thanks - more info coming.
… is a string of 16 numbers/letters (mostly numbers).
You can request the IPASS CODES for your car through any Porsche Dealer.
They will require proof of ownership (registration) and may do it as a courtesy or may charge a fee.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)


Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
Can you clarify?
Boxsterra - 7 years ago
My understanding is that he needs two codes to get the key to fully work with the car -- start the car and remote key (un)lock: one 6-digit code specific to the car, and one 16-digit code specific to the key. Right?
... in order to program anything into the car the PIWIS or PST-II requires specific access codes that are unique to the car.
These are called IPASS Codes and include, among others, immobilizer code, transponder 1,2,3 codes, radio serial number, immobilizer serial number, ignition lock/alarm system code, radio code, DME programming code, learning code.
Some of the components, such as the immobilizer pill and the keyless entry remote also have their own code which pairs with the corresponding IPASS.
That's why if you get a used key you cannot reprogram it in because the original individual component codes would not be available.
Happy Boxstering
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)


Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/21/2016 07:47AM by Pedro (Weston, FL). (view changes)
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