Re: Mold

I recently had my master control unit replaced because I'd flooded the original, but had to have a new key made, which I did at the local Porsche of Arlington. The first key failed, was unable to unlock the doors remotely, and was replaced, the second did the same thing after several weeks. The first time they said the first replacement key had a bad head, now they say if this happens again it could be mold. I can't smell any, but is this possible or more likely than another bad key head?

2001 Base, purchased in 2004, replaced engine at 130K+, RIP 2017

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JackintheBoxster
I recently had my master control unit replaced because I'd flooded the original, but had to have a new key made, which I did at the local Porsche of Arlington. The first key failed, was unable to unlock the doors remotely, and was replaced, the second did the same thing after several weeks. The first time they said the first replacement key had a bad head, now they say if this happens again it could be mold. I can't smell any, but is this possible or more likely than another bad key head?

Did anyone at the dealer tell you where the mold might be?

At the master control unit location? (What is the master control unit in this context? I know of the DME located on the rear trunk bulkhead and the security module located on the cabin floor under I think the passenger seat. Is it one of these or something else?)

If so then a check of that location needs to be made. It might not take much mold to cause a problem. You might be able to smell it -- or see it with a magnifying glass -- if you gain access to the location where mold is suspected of causing a problem.

You know, the more I think about this, the less sense it makes. It was the key that failed, and then the replacement key worked. This sounds like a key problem, not something to do with mold or anything else on the car itself, otherwise, why would replacing the key fix the problem?

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JackintheBoxster
You know, the more I think about this, the less sense it makes. It was the key that failed, and then the replacement key worked. This sounds like a key problem, not something to do with mold or anything else on the car itself, otherwise, why would replacing the key fix the problem?

It is a bit confusing.

Or maybe not.

The first key died and was replaced. A bad head was the diagnosis. Then the 2nd key stopped working. While this too could be a bad head there could be something else going on.

Do you have only the one key?

As an aside: I've had keys stop working, that is I can no longer lock/unlock the doors or the trunk lids with the key using the buttons, but the other key just works and works and works. For years. Eventually the rubber covering falls apart or a button fails. I've even had a tech at the office transfer (requires unsoldering/soldering) a button/switch from the dead key to the working key and resurrect the working key's bad button.

You need to speak to the service staff at the dealer and ask where the mold might be, why it affects the key. And if it is mold why did it appear? And what to do about it? Now and to prevent it from reappearing.

I only have one key, which was made (covered by insurance) when I had the master control unit under the driver's seat replace because of flooding. Mold is possible, although the car has been dry (covered at night or inside) for weeks and since it's been blindingly hot here, I'm not sure the mold could survive. However, my point is that since the earlier keys' failure to work was fixed by replacing the key, not doing anything under the seat, the notion that any mold might be at fault seems to me to be a canard.

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JackintheBoxster
I only have one key, which was made (covered by insurance) when I had the master control unit under the driver's seat replace because of flooding. Mold is possible, although the car has been dry (covered at night or inside) for weeks and since it's been blindingly hot here, I'm not sure the mold could survive. However, my point is that since the earlier keys' failure to work was fixed by replacing the key, not doing anything under the seat, the notion that any mold might be at fault seems to me to be a canard.

It is possible the mold is a "canard" as you say.

But let's assume it is not.

If you don't want to tackle this suspected mold issue, that is at least check for mold, you need to be talking to the dealer.

Assume there is mold and unleash the dealer on the mold. But not before getting some assurance that if mold is not found that the cost to go after this mold would be waived as the work was done on an erroneous diagnosis and there is no reason why you should foot the resutling cost.

I'm no expert but I have to believe it can't be that much effort to determine if the key is working right.

Have to add that here is where a 2nd key comes on handy to prove the system works and the problem is with the other key.

If the LED doesn't flash when a button is pressed that's a sign the key is *not* working. If the LED flashes then the Porsche diagnostics computer connected to the car should be able ot obtain something from the car's security system regarding the attampt to use the key, one if its buttons. I would expect somethig like ID not found, ID bad, or perhaps nothing.

If the ID is received but not recognized or is bad this suggests possibly a bad key. However, it could suggest an RF receiption problem which might be a side effect of having water in cabin. The antenna connection is marginal or bad.

In the case of nothing this suggests either the key is not transmitting an RF signal -- the key is bad -- or the signal is not being received at all -- the antenna connection/circuit is bad.

That a new key worked then quit working does to me seem more like a key problem than an antenna/security system problem. Hard to imagine "mold" could just appear and cause the system to stop working and yet not affect other signals into/out of the security module to the point that error codes would be present for the reading.

I think I'll just ask my mechanic about mold when he gets back. Asking questions at dealers has always gotten me into expensive trouble that has not solved any problems, at least since my extended service warranty expired.

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JackintheBoxster
I think I'll just ask my mechanic about mold when he gets back. Asking questions at dealers has always gotten me into expensive trouble that has not solved any problems, at least since my extended service warranty expired.

That makes sense.

I was thinking on the way to work this AM that if mold were a problem it should affect other pins and as a result other actions/behavior. For instance leaving either the front or rear trunk lid ajar and trying to lock the car. The security system should detect an open lid and sound the horn. Similarly one could leave the center console lid open, or either door ajar. Do these one at a time to ensure every one when ajar is recognized by the security module.

If you find one more doesn't have the horn sounding a warning that could be a sign mold is affecting more than just the RF signal from the key's buttons. If all are recognized then that makes a claim of mold a bit more farfetched.

But talk to your mechanic. He's the expert.

Call it a "carnard" if you want. I think it just BS.

There is nothing at the security module for mold to feed on. I would think if mold were present it would be growing on/in the carpets and you would smell the mold.

There is the antenna that picks up the key module's door unlock/lock and trunk lid open RF signals. This is not the same antenna that picks up the key's RFID signal. I would sort of kinda like to suspect an antenna connection problem. I know my Boxster's AM radio reception sucks after a few years as a "connection" of some sort gets bad and I have to remove the passenger side a-pillar plastic trim piece and unscrew this small bolt that holds some small electronic gizmo to the a-pillar sheet metal and then screw the bolt tight again. Just this resurrects the radio reception. For a while.

the variable here is the key.

Do you not have two keys, so you can test one against the other?

Have you changed batteries? Just to ensure its not a transmit power issue.

I presume this is a remote issue, not an issue when you use the mechanical key... or am I wrong?

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com