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Hi All,

Last week the positive cable on my car broke off and my car was left with no power. In order for me to pop the hood to access the battery, I initially tried putting 12 volts directly to the C3 and D1 fuses. I think I burned something out. My interior lights work, the window drops when opening and closing the door, but both power windows and my convertable top don't wor.
Any ideas what it can be? My fuses are good, I swapped them out and am getting 12 volts, but it doesn't seem like my switches are getting any power. Could it be a relay? Do the power windows feed through the convertible top double relay? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
The windows and convertible top are controlled by the Central Locking Unit (black box under the driver's seat).
The CLU has a fuse of its own. Check it.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)


Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
Hi Pedro, I have, and it's good. I am wondering if the relay could be the culprit, if so, how can I bypass it to test if that is the issue. I know it can be jumped with a wire, but I am not sure to which terminals on the relay board.
Because the windows drop when you pull the door handle but won't move when you press the switch it tells me that the issue is in the CLU.
I would pull it and inspect the printed circuit board carefully, looking for signs of damaged electronic components.

I'm assuming you checked the corresponding fuses, in particular D6 which protects the power windows and soft top.

Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)


Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
Thanks Pedro, I checked D6, it's good, I thought the corresponding fuses were C3 and D1, either way, all are good. I just took out the CLU and inspected the internals, all looks good, I will try and upload a picture of it. I think I need to look at the relay next, any instructions on how to test it? I'm at a loss.
I just tested the window switches again, no power going to them. I tried following schematics I fcround online and am confused. Does the power run through the window motor first before running to the left switch? Can anyone help me troubleshoot no power getting to the switch? Again, the fuses are good.


Thanks!
Hi All,

I received my durametric. Cleared all faults in the CLU, retested the locking system and everything seems good, no beeps or fault codes. But my windows still don't work. I checked resistance to the window switched from the motor, it is good, but still no 12v at the switches. There is 12v to the motor. I would say the window motor is bad but the windows will drop and close when using the handle to open and close the door. Any advice? This is making me crazy!
Correction, now the alarm is giving me the double beep with fault code 34 for internal sensor issue sad smiley
Hi All,

So update since last post, I had to take my car to Porsche as a local Indie dealer said I needed a alarm module and new Key. $1200 later my windows are working! The top is still not working though and the windows won't drop when opening the latch. I found a post somewhere on testing the relay panel (where the double convertible top relay plugs in), and it seems that when checking voltage on pins 23 and 13, and the roof latch is open, I should get 12 volts, and I am not (all other tests passed). So I assumed it was the roof latch micro switch and changed it out, twice, and nothing, so I checked the original switch with my multimeter and the switches are functional. I assume at this point that either the wiring got fried, or could it be that those pins on the relay panel got fried? I am looking for suggestions on how to approach this. Also, the function when turning the key in the door to drop or raise the windows is not working, I am not sure if these are connected problems. Please help!
Quote
avisalem155
Hi All,

So update since last post, I had to take my car to Porsche as a local Indie dealer said I needed a alarm module and new Key. $1200 later my windows are working! The top is still not working though and the windows won't drop when opening the latch. I found a post somewhere on testing the relay panel (where the double convertible top relay plugs in), and it seems that when checking voltage on pins 23 and 13, and the roof latch is open, I should get 12 volts, and I am not (all other tests passed). So I assumed it was the roof latch micro switch and changed it out, twice, and nothing, so I checked the original switch with my multimeter and the switches are functional. I assume at this point that either the wiring got fried, or could it be that those pins on the relay panel got fried? I am looking for suggestions on how to approach this. Also, the function when turning the key in the door to drop or raise the windows is not working, I am not sure if these are connected problems. Please help!


Anyone?
My recollection is before the windows will drop the top latch must be opened *and* the parking brake must be set. I do not recall if there is any issue if the car is in gear (manual or Tip).

If the parking brake is applied and other requirements are met and the windows still do not drop and you are sure the top latch (switch) is good then the problem might lie with the parking brake. A switch (?there is not working right.
Thanks for the response, the parking brake light is working. I just tested the pin connector for the latch microswitch and I am only receiving 4.5v. Would that mean that the relay is bad?
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