Re: So...

My Boxster is a 2000S with 64K miles. Over the past month or two occasionally the car would not fire. I'd wait a few minutes and then it would fire up. When it did not fire it turned over just fine but I would get nothing in the way of mis-firing or sputtering. I hooked up my Durametric and had a fault in the crank position sensor (code P0336 I believe). I removed the sensor and found a glob of goo right in the center of the tip. I cleaned it up and put a little contact cleaner in the plug connection and reinstalled. I also cleared the fault. For the past few weeks the car's starting has been faultless. Hope this info helps someone.

That is interesting information.

Any idea how a glob of goo would get on the sensor?

I imagine just wear and tear and it's near the clutch (I believe). The glob was not much bigger than a round pin head. I myself would hate to pay to replace that sensor when a quick wipe with a towel and it's good to go again. It is a bit of a chore to get at the sensor. Mark

Thanks Mark. It is good to know that it could be a "relatively" easy / inexpensive repair if you know what to look for.

We had the Crank Position Sensor cause stalling on our BMW while we were on a trip. It wasn't cheap to have it replaced at the dealer.

I don't thing the goo was the issue.
That part is a proximity sensor and should work fine even when covered in goo.
It probably had a loose or corroded connection so when you disconnected it, cleaned it and and reconnected it that's when you fixed it.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

I think the goo had a metallic component. The sensor is cylindrical with a flat circular surface on top. It is about 10mm across and I think the active area is about 2mm and in dead center. The blackish goo was a "ball" on only the center 2mm area only, the rest of the sensor was bright shiny and clean. However, I always use a contact cleaner on electrical connections, especially when I first unplug them. I do not like doing something twice so I take my time and do a little extra. My 2000 Box. S is a summer only car. The undercarriage has absolutely no corrosion.

I am experiencing similar symptoms as MarknearChicago in my 2007S Boxster with 36K miles. Always starts fine when cold. But when road temperature hot and after being off for 5 to 10 minutes the engine will crank, will fire what seems to be once or twice but then cuts off. After 3 or 4 attempts like this the engine starts up and runs fine with no issues. Could this be a crank position sensor problem? Are there two of these sensors, which is implied on Pelican Parts, one on each side of the engine. And if so, where are they located? On Pelican Parts the Bosch (OEM) sensor is $30.00 while the Porsche part is $200.00 plus so if DIY big savings on parts alone as opposed to dealer fix. Any suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.

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oldhoo07s
I am experiencing similar symptoms as MarknearChicago in my 2007S Boxster with 36K miles. Always starts fine when cold. But when road temperature hot and after being off for 5 to 10 minutes the engine will crank, will fire what seems to be once or twice but then cuts off. After 3 or 4 attempts like this the engine starts up and runs fine with no issues. Could this be a crank position sensor problem? Are there two of these sensors, which is implied on Pelican Parts, one on each side of the engine. And if so, where are they located? On Pelican Parts the Bosch (OEM) sensor is $30.00 while the Porsche part is $200.00 plus so if DIY big savings on parts alone as opposed to dealer fix. Any suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.

There is only one crankshaft position sensor. There are two camshaft position sensors.

The CEL is dark I take it?

Have you checked for any pending error codes?

The symptoms -- especially with the engine trying to fire then cuttng out -- doesn't follow form regarding a crankshaft position sensor.

One possible clue the sensor is the culprit is to observe the tach when cranking engine and it is manifesting this behavior. If the tach needle doesn't come up off the resting pin that could be a sign the crankshaft position sensor is not operating. On this note one might with an OBD2 code reader/data viewer monitoring RPMs in real time observe an absence of RPMs while the engine is cranking. I don't think I've ever bothered to observe this. Maybe I'll do this today.

If a replacement crankshaft position sensor is deemed necessary Pelican has offers these in prices from $97 to $272. See link below. Don't know what besides the differences in prices there are. Not all "OEM" sensors (and other components) are the same as what comes across the parts counter at the Porsche dealer.

[www.autoatlanta.com]

IIRC a Porsche tech can with a proper Porsche diagnostic computer can query for a crankshaft position sensor error. This is not a standard OBD2 error so off the shelf OBD2 tools are useless. Durameteric might also have this ability but I've never used that tool.

Before you replace anything if you want to try something with the engine cold and probably (but always safely) in the air find the crankshaft position sensor and first verify it is not loose. Carefully disconnect it from the wiring harness connector then carefully reconnect it. This will remove any surface corrosion and if this is the cause of the behavior eliminate it. Be sure you get the connectors together again right. I have never messed with the crankshaft position sensor but with other sensors: MAF, O2; they all have clips/latches that must be released to separate the connector halves then operated again to allow the connector halves to come together completely then the latch/catch released and confirmed it has locked the sensor halves together. Otherwise they can work loose over time.

Marc, thanks for your input. There is no CEL. I have not checked for error codes - I will check this weekend when I will have opportunity to do so, I have a Durameteric (not pro). I will also check the sensor to see if there are any loose connections. But I ask that anyone who can, please add to my limited knowledge as how to best access the sensor with no lift - passenger side, remove rear wheel, straight in at approx. 2 o'clock, on side of engine. Thanks in advance.

Replaced the Crank Position Sensor and the problem was resolved. It can be accessed via the passenger (right) side wheel well. I wish I had purchased the bolt too because the old one was in terrible shape.

[www.autohausaz.com]

[www.autohausaz.com]

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oldhoo07s
Marc, thanks for your input. There is no CEL. I have not checked for error codes - I will check this weekend when I will have opportunity to do so, I have a Durameteric (not pro). I will also check the sensor to see if there are any loose connections. But I ask that anyone who can, please add to my limited knowledge as how to best access the sensor with no lift - passenger side, remove rear wheel, straight in at approx. 2 o'clock, on side of engine. Thanks in advance.

Upon engine crank this AM the Boxster dash tech needle rose a bit off the pin as the starter spun the engine. The RPM reading on the OBD2 tool showed some RPMs too as soon as the starter spun the engine. 'course, the engine started rather promptly, as is its custom, but I believe the crankshaft position sensor was working even before the engine was running for I believe it is the crankshaft position sensor signal from which RPMs are derived.

I have no experience accessing the crankshaft position sensor. A number of Boxster owners have though and some have posted their experiences. This should tell you something about the job: Small hands is mentioned as a plus.

The sensor is apparently accessed from below. The sensor's electrical connection is accessed from above. 'course, the engine compartment will have to be exposed. It is right next to the AOS. The sensor is under the AOS.

Thanks Boxsterra and Marc. Last night I checked for fault codes with the Durametric and there were no fault codes. I raised the car, removed the wheel and located the sensor and found that both connections seemed to be tight. I did not loosen the connections and clean because of limited access from below on the electrical connection. Anyway, I have ordered a new sensor but am a little concerned about being able to remove & replace it because of tight quarters and the maze of stuff to go around. Boxsterra, since you have done this R&R, can you give some advice or tips on getting this done? Did you also remove the engine cover to get access from above? Any tips from anyone will be very useful.

... you can do it entirely from the passenger side rear wheelwell.
Get a good bright lamp in there so you can see what you're doing.
The most difficult part will be disconnecting the sensor. It's easier to move whatever other connectors are in front, so you have better access.
Once disconnected, use a loooong extension (36 in) to remove the bolt (allen) from outside the wheelwell.
It's also good to have a magnet on a telescoping rod so you can retrieve the bolt.
With the bolt out, pull the sensor straight out.
Replace in inverse order.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

I would add that with a car that old, it's possible that the bolt is seized. I would start by soaking it with PB Blaster and if it is hard enough to turn use a torch to heat it up. If you force it and break the bolt, it will take 10x as long to fix the mess (though it's totally doable).

Thanks Pedro and Boxsterra. I have ordered the sensor and a new bolt online (OEM Bosch p/n 0261210248 which is the exact same description of the sensor on the car, price of $30.50, while the Genuine Porsche part is $200.00 plus - go figure) and it should come early next week and I'll give it a go. Boxsterra, I have had the car for 10 years and still think it is new, at least not old (as I "think" of myself).

This past weekend I used the Durametric to check again for fault codes and found none. Waiting for the replacement sensor, I drove the car numerous times to try and replicate the difficult start when hot. Did not happen once. Not going to try and fix it if it ain't broke and will continue to drive.

Hi im new here and i know the thread is a year old. I hve a’97 boxster with the same symptoms so i bought a crank position sensor at pelican. Now things got worse. Before i changed it, the car would start after 10-15mins of letting it cool. Now it takes hours! Like i would literally have to wait for the engine to really cool down before it would start up again. My question is could i have a defective cps right off the box? I ordered a bosch one. I read somewhere that with sensors like this i should go with porsche ones. Imfrom the philippines and I haven’t driven mycar for awhilenow im afraid to get stuck on the road. Traffic here is bad enough already☹️ Appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Franz

Does the engine crank when you turn the key?

Sorry for the late reply. Yup engine cranks when i turn the key. Now its worse. The car starts then just dies. Like it doesn’t have any rev limit. How do i say it? Like the rom doesn’t stay in the 700-1000rpm. I changed the crank position sensor a few months back but it did not solve the problem. From what i can recall, it got worse! It it possible that i got a faulty sensor right out the box? I got the bosch one so Im thinking of getting the porsche one which is really expensive! But i just want to solve the problem and i read somewhere that with the crank sensor , you should go with original porsche parts.

If it starts when you manually press the gas then it's possible it's a sticking or dirty throttle body.

Hi, before it used to start right away after the engine cools down like overnight. Now it doesn’t start anymore. It just cranks then dies. Having it towed to the mechanics shop when i get time off from work. Hoping for the best and it wont be an expensive repair☹️ Hard to outsource parts from the Philippines.

Franz

when it's not starting does pressing the gas while trying to start it make it start?

Hi,
Nope the car doesn’t start at all. It just cranks then dies. Im having the car towed to the shop but the weather is not cooperating. Its been raining here. Intertropical convergence zone thing that’s bringing in all the rain. Dont know if its the relays, the crank sensor or fuel pump... hopefully the mechanic can diagnose it☹️

Franz

or in the carpet behind the seat?

Hi,
Nope. No moisture under the carpet. Im thinking the relays or fuel pump or the crank sensor which i already replaced with a bosch one. Not really a diy guy so im just looking at forums for possible answers as its hard to source parts here. If i bring the car to the shop and we have to order parts, it could take weeks! and i dont want to leave my car just sitting there☹️F

Franz

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

Hi pedro,

Was able to have the car towed to the shop and it was a failed fuel pump and a code for an oxygen sensor

Franz

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Iko168
Hi,
Nope the car doesn’t start at all. It just cranks then dies. Im having the car towed to the shop but the weather is not cooperating. Its been raining here. Intertropical convergence zone thing that’s bringing in all the rain. Dont know if its the relays, the crank sensor or fuel pump... hopefully the mechanic can diagnose it☹️

Franz

Cranks then dies is an odd symptom.

If you mean the engine cranks, fires, then dies that reads like a fuel supply problem. A tech would use a bypass relay to eliminate the relay then he would disconnect the fuel pump from the car's wiring harness and supply 12V shop power to the fuel pump. If the pump runs that suggests the problem is not with the fuel pump. But of course if the fuel pump doesn't run that points to the fuel pump possibly being the problem.

Were you able to view the tach while the engine was cranking but not starting? My 2nd hand info is if the crankshaft position sensor is acting up the tach needle just lies there. There is no signal from the CPS to determine crankshaft speed.

Hi,
Yup the car just cranks. Like it doesn’t push thru to starting the car. And yup the tach needle moves just a tadh needle moves just a little towards the end of the cranking just before it stops. I don’t know how better to describe it. Having the car towed this week. Crossing my fingers that its not the fuel pump or anything expensive to replace☹️ Will update. Thanks guys.

Franz

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Iko168
Hi,
Yup the car just cranks. Like it doesn’t push thru to starting the car. And yup the tach needle moves just a tadh needle moves just a little towards the end of the cranking just before it stops. I don’t know how better to describe it. Having the car towed this week. Crossing my fingers that its not the fuel pump or anything expensive to replace☹️ Will update. Thanks guys.

Franz

There has been just one time my Boxster engine cranked but failed to start. The behavior started with after I started the engine and as I was backing out of my parking space at home the engine died. I tried a restart and the engine sort of caught but didn't run. Every subsequent attempt to start the engine resulted in the engine cranking just fine but with no signs of life.

The diagnosis was pretty much as I covered in a previous post. I checked the fuse. It was ok. I may have tried a new or spare fuse but anyhow I satisfied myself it was not a fuse problem.

From a tech I obtained a bypass relay and used this to eliminate the fuel pump relay. I towed the car to the dealer and the tech went right at the fuel pump, disconnecting it from the wiring harness and feeding it 12V shop power. The fuel pump did not run. Diagnosis: Bad fuel pump. The tech replaced the fuel pump and the engine cranked and fired right up every time thereafter. (Well, except when an intermittently bad clutch safety interlock switch acted up. But in this case there was no cranking.)

that is an unusual problem except in high-mileage early MY (before returnless fuel pumps) cars.

fuel pump failure has to be considered and eliminated and this includes this case with the OP's car.

You said "fuel pump is not unusual" then "failure rate is not high". Those seem to be contradictory.

In any case, buying a fuel pump in case that's the problem is a waste of money because your latter statement is true and hence by definition it's a bad bet.

You don't have to try everything that could be the problem. In this case it could be the immobilizer (much more common problem) or just the fuse on the immobilizer. It could be one of the relays. It could be the ignition switch. It could be the crank position sensor. And it could be a dozen other things. Diagnosis is the best way to track these things down, starting with the common problems and the ones easy to test.

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Boxsterra
You said "fuel pump is not unusual" then "failure rate is not high". Those seem to be contradictory.

In any case, buying a fuel pump in case that's the problem is a waste of money because your latter statement is true and hence by definition it's a bad bet.

You don't have to try everything that could be the problem. In this case it could be the immobilizer (much more common problem) or just the fuse on the immobilizer. It could be one of the relays. It could be the ignition switch. It could be the crank position sensor. And it could be a dozen other things. Diagnosis is the best way to track these things down, starting with the common problems and the ones easy to test.

Not contradictory. Fuel pumps fail but they aren't failing left and right. Thus one can't dismiss a fuel pump as the problem behind the engine cranks but does not start symptom. But also one shouldn't just throw a fuel pump at the symptom either.

I'm not recommending the OP replace the fuel pump. Just pointing out the symptom/behavior can be fuel pump related. Testing for a bad fuel pump is relatively easy and I've covered the steps before so I won't repeat them again.

If the immobilizer fails to receive a valid key ID the engine does not crank.

IIRC the OP has already replaced the crankshaft position sensor. The OP reports seeing some tach needle activity which supposedly lets the new crankshaft position sensor off the hook.

While ignition switches are also known to fail they don't fail left and right. Besides the engine cranking but not starting is not a behavior of a bad ignition switch based on my experience and 2nd hand info.

But if the OP wants to in some way test the ignition switch, a wiggling of the key while turning the key to engage the starter can be tried. If it is the ignition switch often this wiggling technique will have the symptom related to the bad ignition switch gone though not gone for good.

That makes it a prime suspect IMO. If the plug wasn't seated properly or a wire was compromised it would cause this exact symptom.

Hi all, so i finally was able to have the car towed to the shop and its a failed fuel pump. The car was also throwing a code for an oxygen sensor. Im just glad that the cps i had installed was working otherwise this would have been a very expensive repair. ( not that it already is ). Already ordered the parts and hopefully i will soon be reunited with my baby and the road! Thanks everybody for the help! Appreciate it much!

Franz

Hi, i dont have a scanner but i plan to order one together with the position sensor. Not much people here in the Philippines who work on porsches. Make that in my part of the country which is cebu city. The dealership is in manila. There is ine mechanic who used to work with porsche in manila who installed the crank position sensor that i bought. But this did not solve the problem. Now ifs worse! Aside frim not starting when its hot, now the car starts when its cold but it doesn’t have an idle. It just dies! I read somewhere that when buying a crank position sensor, you should go with original porsche. Pelican sells it at 300dollars. Pricy but if this solves the problem, then im willing to buy. Is it possible to have a faulty sensor right out of the box?

Ok, it's in the Market Update 964 & 993 article's sidebar concerning "964 Common Faults," but maybe it's still applicable for much newer Porsches:

The engine will crank but will not start if the DME relay fails. If it starts but stalls, it could be the idle stabilizer.

Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?

Hi , i dont know if you responded to my query or to another’s but hey thanks i will try this and tell my mechanic

Just an update - after the sensor was cleaned off the car started without an error (for a few months). But, several months later one time it would not start and I said the hell with it and replaced it. Working fine ever since.