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Looking to replace the transmission oil in my '00S.....

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I have ~109K miles on it. On cold mornings (50s), the first few shifts from 2 to 3 are not always compliant. I can go back into 2nd and try again successfully. I took it in to my indie and he suggests the oem Porsche gear oil (000-043-204-71, may be superseded with a newer version). He only had 1 liter in stock and he would have to buy 20 liters at $800 to get it. He doesn't need 20 liters, only 6 for my car. He has Mobil 1, but this is what I probably already have.

I searched on my own online to no success yesterday.

I called one dealer nearby and they want $500 to do the service. Is that realistic?

Any suggestions on where I can get about 6 liters of this gear oil?
OK, I found the newer part number, 000-043-305-49 from Pelican Parts (1 liter bottle for $35 plus shipping). I need to confirm with the indie that this is the right/same product. Does anyone know the oil capacity of the transaxle? I see a technical article where someone used 3 liters, but my indie told me 6 (off the top of his head?).
My Bentley manual says the 5-speed manual takes 2.25 liters of fluid, the 6-speed manual takes 2.8 liters. Fluid is "SAE 75W90". My info is there are two fluids: Mobil (Mobilube PTX) and Shell.

Since I had the dealer service my Boxster's 5-speed and my Turbo's 6-speed I never bothered to worry about transmission fluids. The service department just used whatever the factory called for. (One time I got the fluid for $5/liter as the service department had some extra after some warranty work and gave the fluid to me at a discount rather than just toss it.)

Might mention the shop time to replace the 5-speed transmission fluid is just 0.3 hour. I don't know about the Boxster S and its 6-speed but my Turbo's 6-speed required a bit more time: More panels to remove.

Had your indy tried to add 6 liters of fluid 3.2l would have been on the floor. The 6-speed transmission fill technique is to add fluid until it runs out the fill hole.

Whittier eh? That's in California if I remember my geometry right. Email me your address and I'll ship you some goodies I've accumulated over the years and no longer need now I am Boxster-less. At least the Bentley manual. Reads like your indy could use one.
On the 5 speed you will overfill if you fill till it runs out. The correct level is lower than the fill hole. You need a small measuring tool, a paper clip will do, to determine the level.
they say to bend a paper clip so it extends 5mm or more below the lip as a special tool.

Te 5 speed is an Audi unit. always been so.

Grant gee-lenahan-at-vee-eff-email-dot-net
Quote
Anker
On the 5 speed you will overfill if you fill till it runs out. The correct level is lower than the fill hole. You need a small measuring tool, a paper clip will do, to determine the level.

Did not say to fill the 5-speed until the fluid ran out the fill hole. The OP mentioned he had a 6-speed. That fill until the fluid runs out the fill hole is the way the 6-speed gets filled with fluid.

For the 5-speed the fill procedure is to fill until the level is 11mm below the fill hole.
Fluid and labor time
grant - 3 months ago
Hi Tony,

You can buy the fluid several places, including some of the Porsche dealers that deal over the web (suncoast, and the one in the pacific northwest, i forget).

The fluid really holds up well, so don;t expect miracles, btu the factory calls for a change at 90k, so you are due.

The job requires that the car be put on a lift, **leveled**, that the diagonal braces and plate be removed (about a dozen bolts), drained and filled to just below the inlet.

Its quite easy with a lift but a PITA due to the obstructions and the need for true level. Certainly no more than an hour though. So $150 + oil.

It takes less than 3 L. I cant say exactly - you fill until it runs out (or just before, the 6 and 5 speed differ).

Check your linkage as well, and lubricate the nylon parts that align the shifter. I use a teflon-oil like superlube.

Grant

Grant gee-lenahan-at-vee-eff-email-dot-net
I found it easier to drill a 1 3/4" hole in the plate below the drain plug rather than wrestle with the braces. Many owners and Porsche Indies do this. And a good idea Is to remove the fill plug before draining the trans fluid. If you are 100% level the refill will take 3 litres less a couple of ounces. Using genuine Porsche fluid is also highly recommended. My local Porsche dealer sells it for ~$60.00 CDN per Litre which translates to about $48 US. So about $150 in fluid. Well worth the addition cost over non OEM fluid. The real stuff solved my second gear balkiness especially when down shifting.

The job is not overly difficult and a good DIY. So good luck!
000-043-305-49 (At Sunset in Portland area). $28.14/liter plus shipping. Pelican has it at 999-917-546-00, $35/liter plus shipping and tax.

I would change it myself, because I have an oil pit. But, I tried to take off the diagonal plate before and the nuts were too tight to remove (installed with an air impact gun?). Plus, I understand that you have to have the wheels off the ground to not affect the wheel alignment (when you take off the diagonal). For the pit, the wheels stay on.

I am getting prices from my local dealers and the labor only from my indie. He is very competent and does POC support.
Like I said . . . I found it easier to drill a 1 3/4" hole in the plate below the drain plug rather than wrestle with the braces.

This in no way compromises the integrity of the plate. It is under tension, not compression so there is no loss of strength. Many have questioned why Porsche didn't have a hole there to begin with.
Quote
paulofto
This in no way compromises the integrity of the plate. It is under tension, not compression so there is no loss of strength. Many have questioned why Porsche didn't have a hole there to begin with.

I have seen several that have collapsed because they were drilled. The 1997s has the drain hole and Porsche eliminated it on the ‘98 and newer.
The plate is under tension when the car is idle or driving straight, but gets subjected to high compression loads when turning hard under acceleration.
If someone wants to drill for convenience I would highly suggest installing a brace, such as the TechnoBrace.

Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla 1998 Boxster 986 - 280,000+ miles: http://www.PedrosGarage.com
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

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Thanks Pedro, that;s good to know.
Check your manual for the correct fluid.... as Mark notes, it is the PTX stuff and dealers don;'t always use it. My manual for my 2009 C2s denotes Mobilube PTX specifically because it is a GL4.5 spec. The GL number denotes if it is for transmissions 4 or differentials 5 (or visa versa). Since our cars have a transaxle, you get the GL 4.5 and Mobilube PTX is the only product I found that is 4.5. Shell had one but I don;t know if it is still available. To get PTX, I had to order from Suncoast as my two local Porsche dealerships don;t carry it. Really!!!??? They said they just put in Delvac...... this is not spec'd for my car but is an option for track-bound GT3s.

So just relying on your dealer .... well..... I don't anymore.

Google will tell you the GL spec definitions.

Peace
Bruce in Philly
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