You are absolutely correct.... |  |  |
|
Buying through this link, gets PB a donation. |
Products for your Boxster, Cayman and Carrera. |
 | |
| ABS wiring repair kit Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - 5 years ago |
I've had intermittent ABS error warnings on my Spec Boxster for a while. The error codes move around to different corners of the car, usually indicating a ground circuit fault. New sensors / swapping sensors has not helped, so I believe some part of the ABS wiring has been damaged while working on suspension r&r.
I now have the Porsche ABS wiring repair kits in hand for the front L & R wiring. They have the sensor connectors at one end, and 4 bare wires (ABS & brake wear sensor signals) at the other, plus solder+crimp connectors and heat shrink. The L & R lengths are a bit different (longer R), so it looks to me like they are both meant to end on the driver side next to the battery / behind the shock top mount hole. It makes sense to me that splicing would occur here, just before the L & R bundles join the the big many-wires bundle that goes through the wall to the frunk and ABS unit connector (numerous other wires are that bundle, like for the L headlight, etc.)
Can anyone confirm or advise whether I'm on the right path regarding where to splice the wiring in? Thanks!
I now have the Porsche ABS wiring repair kits in hand for the front L & R wiring. They have the sensor connectors at one end, and 4 bare wires (ABS & brake wear sensor signals) at the other, plus solder+crimp connectors and heat shrink. The L & R lengths are a bit different (longer R), so it looks to me like they are both meant to end on the driver side next to the battery / behind the shock top mount hole. It makes sense to me that splicing would occur here, just before the L & R bundles join the the big many-wires bundle that goes through the wall to the frunk and ABS unit connector (numerous other wires are that bundle, like for the L headlight, etc.)
Can anyone confirm or advise whether I'm on the right path regarding where to splice the wiring in? Thanks!
| You are absolutely correct.... Pedro (Odessa, FL) - 5 years ago |
... that's where you should splice.
Take your time and make sure that the ends are tinned correctly.
The connections are critical.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
Take your time and make sure that the ends are tinned correctly.
The connections are critical.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
| Re: You are absolutely correct.... Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - 5 years ago |
Thanks, Pedro. I actually did get some info indicating a splice location for the passenger side that is on that side, rather than doing both on the driver side. I can see where that wire bundle is accessible before it goes into the dash grommet and the interior. I will be deliberate and careful!
| Harness replacement worked! Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - 5 years ago |
After much procrastinating due to worrying about doing it wrong, on Sunday I cut the wiring harness and replaced the right front with the Porsche ABS wiring harness repair kit. I was first able to prove the problem was in the RF harness by letting the car idle and then wiggling the loose harness in the wheel well. ABS light went immediately on when I did that, with the expected ground/short error code.
First I unwrapped the cloth wrap from the bundle that runs along the cowling (from the battery area / wiper assembly area, to the hole in the top of the fender). The bundle also has a couple of EVAP canister related wires that are no longer connected (race car), so I moved them out of the way and they'll now sit idle inside rather than outside the fender wall. Then I carefully cut & peeled away the thick heat shrink, to reveal the individual wires and the factory solder points. They're all sealed with some kind of clear epoxy to make them waterproof. I was worried that in manipulating the heat shrink off, I had nicked a couple of the wires but it end up to be OK (and I'll tape over the nicks in the insulation). I had to decide whether to cut before or after the factory splice, and opted to cut a few inches after, in order to preserve more factory wiring in case of a need to redo my work. It's also easier to work near the edge of the car than the center.
I did my best, which is not great, to cleanly strip, crimp, and solder together the new harness wires on to the old ends. And again, in case it didn't work, I left extra slack. I just did the common ground, and the +/- ABS leads, leaving the brake pad wear sensor +/- leads disconnected since I don't (can't) use wear sensors on the race car. Wiggled the (new) harness, no ABS light. Test drive, no ABS light. And then on Monday took the car to Laguna Seca to test & race, and the ABS worked correctly and the warning light never lit up. Finally, I think my next real race weekend I can brake with confidence.
Now I'll go back in there and clean up my work! (Cut the new harness leads back to a better length, and do a better job on the soldering, and then apply the new heat shrink.)
First I unwrapped the cloth wrap from the bundle that runs along the cowling (from the battery area / wiper assembly area, to the hole in the top of the fender). The bundle also has a couple of EVAP canister related wires that are no longer connected (race car), so I moved them out of the way and they'll now sit idle inside rather than outside the fender wall. Then I carefully cut & peeled away the thick heat shrink, to reveal the individual wires and the factory solder points. They're all sealed with some kind of clear epoxy to make them waterproof. I was worried that in manipulating the heat shrink off, I had nicked a couple of the wires but it end up to be OK (and I'll tape over the nicks in the insulation). I had to decide whether to cut before or after the factory splice, and opted to cut a few inches after, in order to preserve more factory wiring in case of a need to redo my work. It's also easier to work near the edge of the car than the center.
I did my best, which is not great, to cleanly strip, crimp, and solder together the new harness wires on to the old ends. And again, in case it didn't work, I left extra slack. I just did the common ground, and the +/- ABS leads, leaving the brake pad wear sensor +/- leads disconnected since I don't (can't) use wear sensors on the race car. Wiggled the (new) harness, no ABS light. Test drive, no ABS light. And then on Monday took the car to Laguna Seca to test & race, and the ABS worked correctly and the warning light never lit up. Finally, I think my next real race weekend I can brake with confidence.
Now I'll go back in there and clean up my work! (Cut the new harness leads back to a better length, and do a better job on the soldering, and then apply the new heat shrink.)
| Good job! Glad you fixed it. *NM* Pedro (Odessa, FL) - 5 years ago |
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.