Answers

Thanks to Maurice's excellent instructions, the convertible top went in more or less straightforwardly. (Well, except for my own mistake. When re-installing the top be sure that the speaker wires to not get caught under the mounting, that is bad - ask me how I know.)

If your top has never been off, you might consider removing the adjusting bolt on the actuating rod rather than the plastic ball end. After 20 years, the sacrificial plastic ball end sacrificed itself. But the ebay replacements went right on in moments. (Make sure to mark the actuating rod before you move anything. If the plastic ball end breaks and you have not marked the actuating shaft, readjustment will be a pain. Same if you remove the adjusting bolt. Having done the job, I would suggest that others prophylacticly mark the actuating rod. It will only take moments, but will save lots of heartache when the sacrificial plastic rod end gives up the ghost. Incidentally, do NOT buy the metallic replacement rod ends seen on ebay. The plastic is a safety measure. If the top binds, the inexpensive plastic will fail rather than the very expensive metal body panels and top mechanism.

The steering wheel swap took minutes and was plug and play. Just be sure to center the tires before removing the steering wheel.

The top is not perfect. It has the standard issue abrasions one would expect on a 16 year old top. There were some shipping scratches too. The headliner is a bit wonky too. The leading edge keeps disengaging from the top. It looks like it is an interference fit that has failed. I will post a separate thread for that.

But all in, the car is almost better than new. I have a three spoke wheel with the gold crest (be sure to specify BTW - there is a silver crest available too). I now have a glass rear window.

I bought the used top and wheel from LA Dismantlers. They were by far the least expensive. I think the shipping container left something to be desired for sure. There were some new scratches on the edges that could have been avoided. The #3 seal was also damaged and I needed to swap the seal from my old top. It was apparent that they removed the top REALLY quickly. For instance, the steel mounting cables were cut rather than detached. No hardware came with the top. Bottom line, be careful with your existing top removal. Save the hardware and assume you will need to swap at least some parts.

I expect I would do this job again. After learning several tricks, I expect I could do the entire job in 2-3 hours, assuming no collateral part damage. (see plastic ball rod end discussion). As it was, not including the 5 day break to order and receive replacement rod ends, the entire job took 6-7 hours (remember I had to do it twice because the speaker wires go trapped.) If you are not as hamfisted, I expect a first timer could do the swap in 4-5 hours.

Study up first. Some of the directions are hard to visualize with one description. There are multiple sets of directions out there. Read several. you will pick stuff up.

Thanks again to Maurice. This does not get done without him.

after spending a month with the replacement top, I have to say what a difference it made.

Obviously, not having to think about putting it up or down, no chop etc.

But less obviously, the car is much more quiet.

It is noticeable with the top down. There are many fewer squeaks ans squawks as i drive over imperfect conditions.

It is Very noticeable with the top up. Some of that has to do with the headliner, but much as to do with the relative tightness of the roof. There is markedly less wind buffeting. The interface between the window and the top is different. It has a felt-like material. The original was rubber, and squeaked A LOT. All of that is gone.

Initial problems getting the headliner to seat properly abated somewhat. On one of the super hot days, I forced the seat on as tight as I could with some help. That guaranteed that the headliner was fully seated across the entire edge. Since then, it has remained put.

I do not find any difference whatsoever in sight lines. The glass is smaller, but for my part, I feel no practical difference. With repeated use, I am noticing more abrasions, but they still appear modest. We will see.

As noted in the original post, I also replaced the four spoke wheel with a 3 spoke design. I did the replacement largely for aesthetics, but I subsequently found that the three spoke design is much better. I find on long trips that I often hold the wheel at 7 o'clock. A spoke was there before. I also find the larger diameter to feel more comfortable and the flattened thumb area at 2:30 and 9:30 the same. Who knew a wheel could make that much difference.

All in, I am very pleased with these two upgrades. It resolved some of my pet peeves with the car and also solved problems I did not know I had. I would do this job again for sure. Both upgrades were well worth the time and money.

Please provide a pic and source for 3-spoke wheel.
Is that front window and top for the squeak or side windows or both?

I sourced the wheel from LA Dismantlers. DC Automotive also had one, but in silver. Here is a link to another source. (I did not pay that much BTW)

[www.redlineautoparts.com]


With respect to the noises. With the top down, I must assume the rubber seals and the plexi window must have been the source of squeaky problems. All I can say with assurance is the replacement top is much better.

With the top up, I think the sound deadening is due to, the felt like surrounds of the side windows and the much tighter fit overall, which results in much less movement, flex, vibration. The front and rear seals seem to be the same.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/20/2019 04:58PM by JMstamford,ct. (view changes)