Re: How does the fresh air/recirculating air flap work on 2002 Boxster? |  |  |
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Merry Christmas, and thanks for the opportunity to be part of the community!
I bought a 2002 Boxster S, 72,000 miles, last summer. Lots of tinkering and small things wrong with it, but over all has been a joy to own and drive.
I’ve noticed the cabin, when heat is on, seems rather stuffy. I don’t think the recirculating/fresh air flap, which is located under the cabin air filter, is opening. Does this flap just go from open to closed when the recirculating air button is pushed, or, is it somehow temperature regulated? I went through all the controls a few days ago and couldn’t get it to move from the closed position.
Maybe it’s regulated by outside air temperature (it was about 55 when I was observing it)?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. All heat ducts, a/c and etc work just fine (there has been some black snow, but not lately
) but the cabin always feels stuffy and lots of fog on windows. I mean, I do live in Oregon and it’s pretty rainy right now, but, still seems to be in recirculating mode only, which is not what I want.
Thanks for the help!
Lance
2002 Boxster S Manual-SealGrauMetallic
2013 Kia Soul-Orange
2002 F350 dually crew-white
2014 Fiat 500e
Husband
Dad
Teacher
I bought a 2002 Boxster S, 72,000 miles, last summer. Lots of tinkering and small things wrong with it, but over all has been a joy to own and drive.
I’ve noticed the cabin, when heat is on, seems rather stuffy. I don’t think the recirculating/fresh air flap, which is located under the cabin air filter, is opening. Does this flap just go from open to closed when the recirculating air button is pushed, or, is it somehow temperature regulated? I went through all the controls a few days ago and couldn’t get it to move from the closed position.
Maybe it’s regulated by outside air temperature (it was about 55 when I was observing it)?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. All heat ducts, a/c and etc work just fine (there has been some black snow, but not lately
) but the cabin always feels stuffy and lots of fog on windows. I mean, I do live in Oregon and it’s pretty rainy right now, but, still seems to be in recirculating mode only, which is not what I want.Thanks for the help!
Lance
2002 Boxster S Manual-SealGrauMetallic
2013 Kia Soul-Orange
2002 F350 dually crew-white
2014 Fiat 500e
Husband
Dad
Teacher
| Re: How does the fresh air/recirculating air flap work on 2002 Boxster? Pedro (Odessa, FL) - 4 years ago |
All modern Porsches suffer from deteriorating foam air dams after they’ve aged a bit.
The heater code allows hot coolant through when the heater is on and it’s up to the air dams to allow more or less fresh cold air to mix in and adjust the temp to the preset.
Most likely your air dams have lost their foam an hour car can’t regulate the temp.
There are several ways to fix.
Use the Search function on the board since there are multiple postings on the matter.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
The heater code allows hot coolant through when the heater is on and it’s up to the air dams to allow more or less fresh cold air to mix in and adjust the temp to the preset.
Most likely your air dams have lost their foam an hour car can’t regulate the temp.
There are several ways to fix.
Use the Search function on the board since there are multiple postings on the matter.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"
"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti
"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna
Hi, thanks for the information!
Specifically tho, the flap under the cabin air filter; (it’s horizontally located directly under the filter and can easily be seen when filter is removed) when is it supposed to open? Does it go 100% open and then close when the recirculate button is pushed? The reason I’m asking, is, it is completely closed, and nothing I did changed that when I set temps and/or pushed buttons, etc.
If it’s something that varies the outside air flow, then I’m wondering how I can test it.
As far as heat, the car heats like crazy and all the vents seem to work etc..
I’m just trying to figure out why I’m not getting fresh air through my filter... only getting recirculating air. stuffy air and moisture is felt more than it should be I think?
Specifically tho, the flap under the cabin air filter; (it’s horizontally located directly under the filter and can easily be seen when filter is removed) when is it supposed to open? Does it go 100% open and then close when the recirculate button is pushed? The reason I’m asking, is, it is completely closed, and nothing I did changed that when I set temps and/or pushed buttons, etc.
If it’s something that varies the outside air flow, then I’m wondering how I can test it.
As far as heat, the car heats like crazy and all the vents seem to work etc..
I’m just trying to figure out why I’m not getting fresh air through my filter... only getting recirculating air. stuffy air and moisture is felt more than it should be I think?
Finally ‘fixed’ my recirculating/fresh air flap.
Took out cabin air filter, and, I could feel the servo motor trying to open and close the flap when I activated circulating air, but I could also feel the gears stripping.
So, took some bailing type wire, drilled tiny hole in corner of flap, with it open, and wired it open to the airbox top screws.
“Whatever a German can over-engineer, a Swede can fix”. That’s my mantra. I guess an American/Hong Kong designed car built in Finland at an old Saab factory with German tendencies is just up a Swedish-Americans‘ alley, lol.
Car is doing great! Still trying to research why it was a Cali total in 2011. I see or sense no damage to it. It earned a ‘salvage’ title with 42,000 miles. Then went to Oregon, got a reconstructed title, then went back to California and had 2 more owners. Oh well, price was amazing and I’m enjoying the fire out of the car. 74,000 miles now. I’ve put on 3000.
Oh, things I’ve done to her (her name is Pippi, btw)
Bought jack and etc styrofoam holder
Zeppelin Works in Chico (contacted for records) : oil changes, an ignition switch, an alternator and an alignment. Approx 1400$ 2014-18
New top 2018 approx 2500$ (receipt)
Chico Les Schwab put on tires approx 2014 (contacted)
8/13/2019 - 72,000; oil and filter. Mobil 1 (FS 0-w40 A40 Porsche), filter Purolator, 9 quarts (filter clean with no metal or signs of IMS issue). 58$
Fixed front and side plastics, vacuumed leaves from radiators, removed Sprint Booster, cleaned interior and trunks etc., registered and titled (238$)
8/18/2019 - Need: cv axles - bought most of these items, plus a front license plate bracket.
8/20/2019
Porsche update. Right front rim is bent, 3 out of 4 tires are worn inside edge and have to be replaced, rear and front brakes (rear especially bad) and in process of replacing. Axles will arrive tomorrow and I've got the left one out already and working on the right. Air filter was super dirty and, was not completely installed correctly. So put the new filter in and clipped the cover correctly. Finally, giant rat or squirrel nest on top of engine under the manifold. The starter makes a horrible buzzing noise and I'll pull that and grease it while I got the engine open. Rear speakers aren't working. I noticed a red wire that had pulled out of Rear tray with the speakers in it where it plugs In. Am hoping that will fix it! I'll solder when I put the cover back on the engine power steering pump low on fluid to the point where it didn't show on stick so I think that's why it was whining. Will go buy the good stuff (Pentosin) tomorrow and add some.
8/21/2019
Throttle body removal and clean, starter removal and grease, wash and vacuumed engine compartment, air filter, rear brakes, brake wear delete, CV axle install left side, battery 24 hour 2 amp charge, solder rear speaker wire (still no sound), added power steering fluid.
8/22/2019
Right side, CV axle
Ordered 4 tires, Achilles ATR Sport
17” tires
205/50 front
*225/45 front
*255/40 rear
225/45 rear
8/24/2019
Programmed windows to lower 1/2” with top up (procedure sometimes necessary after battery disconnect) worked then stopped working the next day? Will investigate. See notes below on repair of door locks
Gears are stripped in my spoiler, so it will only come up with a tug to get it started. Light comes on at 75 indicating not functioning properly. So, I deactivated it with these instructions below, using the wires on the motor side. This will allow another unit to be installed with no other modifications necessary.
***Deactivating the rear spoiler warning light***
Information: As of MY ’01, a new instrument cluster has been installed in Boxster and Boxster S vehicles. The display of the warning and indicator lights is now performed by light-emitting diodes (previously bulbs). The LEDs are soldered into the circuit board of the cluster, and are not removable. When installing an Aerokit in one of these vehicles, the spoiler warning light must be deactivated in a different manor than previously described in step 4.0 of bulletin 2/98.
Note: It is no longer necessary to remove the instrument cluster, skip steps 4.0 to 4.3 in bulletin
2/98.
Tools: Porsche press-out tool for electrical plug connections, number 87050
Work Procedure: 1.0 This procedure is be performed with step 3.1.2 (in bulletin 2/98), after the spoiler adjusting elements have been retracted.
1.1 Remove the rear luggage compartment lining and remove the relay carrier.
1.2 Remove brown relay 3 (extend spoiler relay) and brown relay 9 (retract spoiler relay) from relay carrier 2. Discard the relays. They are no longer required.
1.3 Disengage the 6-pin plug (only 5 are utilized) connection for the drive motor of the rear spoiler. It is located under the support of the rear spoiler assembly.
1.4 Using the connection diagram below, remove pin 1 and insulate. Remove pins 2 and 4 and swap locations with each other.
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
Pin Color Cross Function Instruction
Section
1 Blue/Green 1.00 Spoiler drive power Remove and insulate. Secure back on harness
2 Gray/Brown 0.35 Spoiler top position Remove and install in position 4
4 Gray/Green 0.35 Spoiler bottom position Remove and install in position 2
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
1.5 Reconnect the 6-pin plug, and install it back on the spoiler support.
Note: Do not leave the plug disconnected as noted in bold type in step 3.1.2."
8/25/2019
Worked on stereo; discovered rear speakers not connected and removed non operational phone microphone (now tucked inside switch tray at top of window).
8/30/2019 new tires installed, balance, and car aligned at Bills tire in Canyonville. Rear right could not be brought into spec. However, should not be an issue. Will keep an eye on tire wear.
9/14/2019
Took door locks out of both side of car. Resoldered the circuit boards. Now have working door locks, and security arms itself. Also, passenger door lowers the window correctly.
Installed frunk and trunk struts.
Had microswitches soldered onto key fob, but still not working, so I give up on remote door lock. Plan on getting normal but chipped spare key in the future.
Got normal key with chip. No remote.
12/19/2019
Installed circuit Werks rear pipes; rear cat delete. No engine codes as they are back beyond the O2 sensors.
Fixed recirculating door by wiring it open
Bought touch up paint and dabbed it on a few spots.
Drove.
Check engine light on because of low CAT efficiency, not sure which bank as I forgot. Reset it a few times. But comes back.
June 1, 2020. - running well, no issues!
Carry on all you Boxster owners!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2020 02:25PM by Landsboxster. (view changes)
Took out cabin air filter, and, I could feel the servo motor trying to open and close the flap when I activated circulating air, but I could also feel the gears stripping.
So, took some bailing type wire, drilled tiny hole in corner of flap, with it open, and wired it open to the airbox top screws.
“Whatever a German can over-engineer, a Swede can fix”. That’s my mantra.
I guess an American/Hong Kong designed car built in Finland at an old Saab factory with German tendencies is just up a Swedish-Americans‘ alley, lol.Car is doing great! Still trying to research why it was a Cali total in 2011. I see or sense no damage to it. It earned a ‘salvage’ title with 42,000 miles. Then went to Oregon, got a reconstructed title, then went back to California and had 2 more owners. Oh well, price was amazing and I’m enjoying the fire out of the car. 74,000 miles now. I’ve put on 3000.
Oh, things I’ve done to her (her name is Pippi, btw)
Bought jack and etc styrofoam holder
Zeppelin Works in Chico (contacted for records) : oil changes, an ignition switch, an alternator and an alignment. Approx 1400$ 2014-18
New top 2018 approx 2500$ (receipt)
Chico Les Schwab put on tires approx 2014 (contacted)
8/13/2019 - 72,000; oil and filter. Mobil 1 (FS 0-w40 A40 Porsche), filter Purolator, 9 quarts (filter clean with no metal or signs of IMS issue). 58$
Fixed front and side plastics, vacuumed leaves from radiators, removed Sprint Booster, cleaned interior and trunks etc., registered and titled (238$)
8/18/2019 - Need: cv axles - bought most of these items, plus a front license plate bracket.
8/20/2019
Porsche update. Right front rim is bent, 3 out of 4 tires are worn inside edge and have to be replaced, rear and front brakes (rear especially bad) and in process of replacing. Axles will arrive tomorrow and I've got the left one out already and working on the right. Air filter was super dirty and, was not completely installed correctly. So put the new filter in and clipped the cover correctly. Finally, giant rat or squirrel nest on top of engine under the manifold. The starter makes a horrible buzzing noise and I'll pull that and grease it while I got the engine open. Rear speakers aren't working. I noticed a red wire that had pulled out of Rear tray with the speakers in it where it plugs In. Am hoping that will fix it! I'll solder when I put the cover back on the engine power steering pump low on fluid to the point where it didn't show on stick so I think that's why it was whining. Will go buy the good stuff (Pentosin) tomorrow and add some.
8/21/2019
Throttle body removal and clean, starter removal and grease, wash and vacuumed engine compartment, air filter, rear brakes, brake wear delete, CV axle install left side, battery 24 hour 2 amp charge, solder rear speaker wire (still no sound), added power steering fluid.
8/22/2019
Right side, CV axle
Ordered 4 tires, Achilles ATR Sport
17” tires
205/50 front
*225/45 front
*255/40 rear
225/45 rear
8/24/2019
Programmed windows to lower 1/2” with top up (procedure sometimes necessary after battery disconnect) worked then stopped working the next day? Will investigate. See notes below on repair of door locks
Gears are stripped in my spoiler, so it will only come up with a tug to get it started. Light comes on at 75 indicating not functioning properly. So, I deactivated it with these instructions below, using the wires on the motor side. This will allow another unit to be installed with no other modifications necessary.
***Deactivating the rear spoiler warning light***
Information: As of MY ’01, a new instrument cluster has been installed in Boxster and Boxster S vehicles. The display of the warning and indicator lights is now performed by light-emitting diodes (previously bulbs). The LEDs are soldered into the circuit board of the cluster, and are not removable. When installing an Aerokit in one of these vehicles, the spoiler warning light must be deactivated in a different manor than previously described in step 4.0 of bulletin 2/98.
Note: It is no longer necessary to remove the instrument cluster, skip steps 4.0 to 4.3 in bulletin
2/98.
Tools: Porsche press-out tool for electrical plug connections, number 87050
Work Procedure: 1.0 This procedure is be performed with step 3.1.2 (in bulletin 2/98), after the spoiler adjusting elements have been retracted.
1.1 Remove the rear luggage compartment lining and remove the relay carrier.
1.2 Remove brown relay 3 (extend spoiler relay) and brown relay 9 (retract spoiler relay) from relay carrier 2. Discard the relays. They are no longer required.
1.3 Disengage the 6-pin plug (only 5 are utilized) connection for the drive motor of the rear spoiler. It is located under the support of the rear spoiler assembly.
1.4 Using the connection diagram below, remove pin 1 and insulate. Remove pins 2 and 4 and swap locations with each other.
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
Pin Color Cross Function Instruction
Section
1 Blue/Green 1.00 Spoiler drive power Remove and insulate. Secure back on harness
2 Gray/Brown 0.35 Spoiler top position Remove and install in position 4
4 Gray/Green 0.35 Spoiler bottom position Remove and install in position 2
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
1.5 Reconnect the 6-pin plug, and install it back on the spoiler support.
Note: Do not leave the plug disconnected as noted in bold type in step 3.1.2."
8/25/2019
Worked on stereo; discovered rear speakers not connected and removed non operational phone microphone (now tucked inside switch tray at top of window).
8/30/2019 new tires installed, balance, and car aligned at Bills tire in Canyonville. Rear right could not be brought into spec. However, should not be an issue. Will keep an eye on tire wear.
9/14/2019
Took door locks out of both side of car. Resoldered the circuit boards. Now have working door locks, and security arms itself. Also, passenger door lowers the window correctly.
Installed frunk and trunk struts.
Had microswitches soldered onto key fob, but still not working, so I give up on remote door lock. Plan on getting normal but chipped spare key in the future.
Got normal key with chip. No remote.
12/19/2019
Installed circuit Werks rear pipes; rear cat delete. No engine codes as they are back beyond the O2 sensors.
Fixed recirculating door by wiring it open
Bought touch up paint and dabbed it on a few spots.
Drove.
Check engine light on because of low CAT efficiency, not sure which bank as I forgot. Reset it a few times. But comes back.
June 1, 2020. - running well, no issues!
Carry on all you Boxster owners!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2020 02:25PM by Landsboxster. (view changes)
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