One, then maybe the other |  |  |
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| Ignition Switch or Entire Assembly? Greg - 3 years ago |
99 Boxster
Over the years, I've had the occasional issue where I had to jiggle the steering wheel in order to turn the key and start the car. Nothing big.
Monday of last week, I had to turn the key a couple of times to get it to start. I'd get a flash on the dash. I could still hear the click of the clutch switch. I chalked it up to just a gremlin.
Later last week, I had trouble turning the key enough to remove it. A couple of times I'd remove the key and the radio would still be on and the door would ding when I opened it (key removed). I could usually jiggle the key in the socket to get the car to sense it was removed.
Now, the car won't sense that the key is removed at all. Radio stays on, door dings.
So do I need to replace just the electric ignition switch or the steering lock mechanism as well? Sure, I can start with the switch but if that doesn't fix things, then I buy the entire assembly which also comes with a switch.
Over the years, I've had the occasional issue where I had to jiggle the steering wheel in order to turn the key and start the car. Nothing big.
Monday of last week, I had to turn the key a couple of times to get it to start. I'd get a flash on the dash. I could still hear the click of the clutch switch. I chalked it up to just a gremlin.
Later last week, I had trouble turning the key enough to remove it. A couple of times I'd remove the key and the radio would still be on and the door would ding when I opened it (key removed). I could usually jiggle the key in the socket to get the car to sense it was removed.
Now, the car won't sense that the key is removed at all. Radio stays on, door dings.
So do I need to replace just the electric ignition switch or the steering lock mechanism as well? Sure, I can start with the switch but if that doesn't fix things, then I buy the entire assembly which also comes with a switch.
Boxsterra - 3 years ago |
The electrical component of the ignition switch is around $8, give or take. Replace it, taking care to ensure it is rotated properly on insertion. If it doesn't solve the problem, spend the big(ger) bucks and do the whole business. You could call that a waste of $8 or you could call it an $8 bet.
The symptoms you described could be either or both parts AFAIK.
The symptoms you described could be either or both parts AFAIK.
| Re: One, then maybe the other Greg - 3 years ago |
Makes sense. Let me follow up with this. I started yesterday the process for removing the entire assembly. I followed this article:
[www.pelicanparts.com]
See figure 3, part C. That torx screw fell down somewhere in the dash. Any idea on replacement size?
[www.pelicanparts.com]
See figure 3, part C. That torx screw fell down somewhere in the dash. Any idea on replacement size?
Boxsterra - 3 years ago |
at the AutoAtlanta parts diagrams. If you can find it in one of these diagrams, they list the screw size on the right side.
[www.autoatlanta.com]
[www.autoatlanta.com]
They tend to reuse sizes to reduce their total part count so if you can't find that one you can probably use another one you find. Also, no need to buy screws from Porsche as Ace Hardware (and similar) places have them as well as some auto parts stores.
[www.autoatlanta.com]
[www.autoatlanta.com]
They tend to reuse sizes to reduce their total part count so if you can't find that one you can probably use another one you find. Also, no need to buy screws from Porsche as Ace Hardware (and similar) places have them as well as some auto parts stores.
| It was just the switch Greg - 3 years ago |
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