Re: i guess you've never worked on a '60s english car

Hey all,
Just got my water pump and my overflow tank. Tank has small crack on bottom. Pump is being changed ‘just because’ car has 74k and probably original.
Anyway, watching youtube videos on the tank replacement seems overly complicated. What was Porsche thinking?

Anyway, does anyone have a cheat
Shortcut to getting the tank out and in? Seems like, if the bottom firewall bolt hole In the plastic tank mount was actually a slide in cut, it would be one hose in the engine bay,
And then the three hoses in the trunk... has anyone modified this, or? Will tackle it probably next week, so will stand by for Any interesting methods of getting this out.

2002 Boxster S Manual-SealGrauMetallic
2013 Kia Soul-Orange
2002 F350 dually crew-white
2014 Fiat 500e

Husband
Dad
Teacher

When I did a Porsche factory tour several years ago I noted that when the upper chassis is married with the lower chassis with the suspension and engine, the overflow tank is already in place on the upper chassis. No wonder it is so hard to get at! Since that is how they manufacture the car, it is no problem for Porsche - at least until it needs to be replaced. Good luck!

is that the hoses have a tendency to fuse themselves to the nipples on the tank. Since the reach is awkward this can make removal very difficult. I have found success in using a long squared hook, working it around the inside of the hose to separate, being careful not to push it through the hose.

Something like this: [www.amazon.com]

I’ve been mechanicing for years, and I always felt like the S10 Chevy’s were also designed by engineers and not mechanics. Cram everything together then drop a tiny body on the truck... they were horrible to work on. I’m finding the Porsche weird, but not super hard, surprisingly. I owned 2 Pontiac Fiero’s, among my other many cars, and they might have been number 2 in difficulty getting to things , and then I’ll put my 2001 F150 as number three when I had to change the engine. That was a horrible job.

I’m also going to get the long flexible hose clamp removal tool.

Water pump is off, and tank is next!

i had a room mate in college who had a couple of english cars. a mini and an austin america (IIRC). you practically had to remove the engine to change the fan belt. it was insane.

--
MY 2000 S, Ocean Blue, Metropol Blue, Savanah Beige.
Bought June 2000 - Sold May 2010

To change the oil in Porsche Carrara 6, (906), first remove engine. There was a GM model that you had to remove the engine or steering to change some spark plugs on the V8. To replace the clutch on a Lotus Elan, remove the engine and maybe the transmission and floor pan.
In an MG TD transmission, the shift rod detents were not captured. Pull the rods out and the balls and springs would launch into space unless you put a rag over th top of the transmission. Putting them back was a challenge.

Ed B

And I second your sentiment. When doing a job we used to routinely order several "identical" parts, take the best one, and return the rest.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2020 02:41PM by Boxsterra. (view changes)

Getting there! Interesting comments! I do know they recommend lifting the cab off a 2000 era F150 to change an engine, but I didn’t. Was super tight and wasn’t sure it would go in, but I did it.

I’ve owned 94 cars, but never an English one... Kinda want one tho!

Meanwhile, Boxster update is: GEBA water pump is in! Waiting on one idler pulley, ordered, before I close up that side of the car.

Also, coolant tank is in! Have to tighten 2 clamps on the oil pour tube ( I finally gave up on the squeeze clamps on that specific tube and went to American hose clamps).

Get some new antifreeze, put all the trunk linings back in, reassemble the over engine cowling and carpets and the top.

Fill with antifreeze; bleed? Not sure on that yet, and then back on the road!

Oh, one little trick I’ll pass along. Remove the clamp on the hoses, slide a tiny screwdriver under the hose where it meets the pipe. Spray wd40 into the gap. The hoses will pull right off.

I guess I shouldn’t call them ‘American’ clamps. Turns out, they are Swedish.

in 1896, the Swedish inventor Knut Edwin Bergström took out a patent for his advanced worm-drive hose clamp. Shortly after, he founded the “Allmänna Brandredskapsaffären E. Bergström & Co.” in 1896, ABA for short. And as of 1949, the entrepreneur Ove Skafte Rasmussen and his Rasmussen GmbH conquered the German and European market with their hose clamp. Both companies merged to become NORMA Group in 2006.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/2020 05:05AM by Landsboxster. (view changes)

They're spring clamps. Way easier to remove and install.

I couldn’t get the inside spring clamp reattached, even with the flexible tool so I opted for a worm drive clamp on that specific tube...

Soo, I couldn’t tighten that last clamp, using a worm gear type! I finally went back to original spring clamps (I have the flexible remote tool too) and removed some kind of air pump thing on the right side, and was able to complete the job. Whew. Glad these tanks only bust once every 18 years...

Now just waiting on some antifreeze and that last idler pulley. Woo hoo!

Sounds familiar. It was a bear of a job.

Quote
JMstamford,ct
Sounds familiar. It was a bear of a job.

Really was! And, ironically enough, way harder than the water pump.

Got her filled with antifreeze! Now, just waiting on the idler pulley. Got trunk, carpet, etc reassembled.

I sound that it was easier to use the spring clamps in some locations and easier to use the "jubilee" style clamps in other places.

I was using the "remote" extended spring hose clamp pliers. If I had new in package spring clips, they might have been easier in all places. But I used what I had without issues.