Reference my original post in another thread, copied below for ease and context.
Car 2004 Boxster
So, i opened my key up again to look for the trace Stefan mentioned. No bad traces - but (doh!) i forgot another problem i found ages ago and was too busy to followup on. The microswitch (tiny surface mount job) on the board was bad and i had REMOVED it. Duh, it didin't work.
I grabbed one of the replacement microswitches form the key fob kit i bought on EBAY and it all came back to me. The switches they provided are normally closed and the key requires normally open. I also recall that i searched for replacements and everything i found easily was too tall. I need yo dive into Digikey with dimensions.
===> question: does anyone know the specific form factor i need so i can order a few?
Anyway, i "stole" a working microswitch from the trunk release button. The inside release will work fine, and re-soldered it for the main unlock/lock button. I followed Stefan's instructions to reprogram, so long as it was < 1024 failures, and BINGO, its working.
As usual Thank you all.
Hopefully this data will help someone else. But "we" need the specifics for the microswitch since the EBAY sellers don seem to know th difference between NO and NC.
Grant
ps: mail is now @ gmail not @vfemail
===============Original post/question======================
I have a problem with my original key as well.
1.Spare key works great
2 regular key opens and starts car mechanically (so "pill" is good?)
3. regular key remote does not work
4. regular key remote does flash LED
I did replace the key body & buttons since they had disintegrated. I thought that might be the issue.
If memory serves i did replace the microswitch too (soldered a new one on from the ebay kit)
Does this sound consistent to you and where is the offending solder joint or trace?
TIA!
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com