On back: Part number - PNA 981 BOX 13

Reference my original post in another thread, copied below for ease and context.

Car 2004 Boxster

So, i opened my key up again to look for the trace Stefan mentioned. No bad traces - but (doh!) i forgot another problem i found ages ago and was too busy to followup on. The microswitch (tiny surface mount job) on the board was bad and i had REMOVED it. Duh, it didin't work.

I grabbed one of the replacement microswitches form the key fob kit i bought on EBAY and it all came back to me. The switches they provided are normally closed and the key requires normally open. I also recall that i searched for replacements and everything i found easily was too tall. I need yo dive into Digikey with dimensions.

===> question: does anyone know the specific form factor i need so i can order a few?

Anyway, i "stole" a working microswitch from the trunk release button. The inside release will work fine, and re-soldered it for the main unlock/lock button. I followed Stefan's instructions to reprogram, so long as it was < 1024 failures, and BINGO, its working.

As usual Thank you all.

Hopefully this data will help someone else. But "we" need the specifics for the microswitch since the EBAY sellers don seem to know th difference between NO and NC.

Grant
ps: mail is now @ gmail not @vfemail


===============Original post/question======================
I have a problem with my original key as well.

1.Spare key works great
2 regular key opens and starts car mechanically (so "pill" is good?)
3. regular key remote does not work
4. regular key remote does flash LED

I did replace the key body & buttons since they had disintegrated. I thought that might be the issue.

If memory serves i did replace the microswitch too (soldered a new one on from the ebay kit)

Does this sound consistent to you and where is the offending solder joint or trace?

TIA!

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

[986forum.com]

the problem is that most switches are far too "high" (base to top of switch plunger)- 3.5 or 4mm rather than 2.25ish as needed.

If they fit i will make available onsey-twosey here.

I need to find a new photo hosting site but will post picture of what i did.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

Hi all,

I finally found a new image hosting site (tinypic is no more). Here is the inside of my 986 key. You can see two microswitches that sit under the plastic pushbuttons. There are typically 3 switches - doors/alarm, frunk and trunk. I simply "stole" the trunk switch and placed it where the defunct main switch was (top, center). Pres-to :-)






Most switches i see are 3.5mm high to top of plastic switch. This is too high o fit in the key fob. The following link is to a set i bought on EBAY. I will repor back how they work. If anyone wants one LMK and I'll throw it in an envelope. or you can buy your own 10 :-)

[www.ebay.com]


Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

OMG! This thread reminds me that my '05 is now an antique, and that there is much to be learnt to keep it going. (But so far, nothing has gone wrong that a local shop could not fix).

I hang around with owners of 356's (and in that case, airplanes in the front yard), as well as Triumphs and (now) MG-TDs. But I always thought of my 987 as a "modern" car. Key problems are just the tip of the iceberg.

My 986 now has about 77,000 miles, including about 50-75 track days (those ended long aga) when i built a track car) and maybe 75-100 autocross days. Its still my autocross competitive car (classes well).

I bought it new, with a 5.5 year long extended warranty (long story). Here's the deal: i never collected one penny. In fact it was never back to the dealer, except to say hi, ever. Nothing broke, that i didn't break on a track; and none of those were major mechanicals.

I did proactively replace the clutch and at the same time did an oil-fed IMS about 2-3 years ago. oh, and maybe 5 (!!!) air-oil-separators. They may or may not have failed; its likely that they just were breached at autocross under crazy side-load sloshing since after developing quite the cloud of smoke, the smoke was gone by the time i got home (about 90 miles from Pocono to my driveway). I replaced the bugger anyway,

I change the mobil1 0W40 about every 18-20 months, at about the 4k mark. With 5 cars (yes, I'm ill) it gets less use than it did once. When i tracked it it drained half the 0W40 and replaced that with 15W50 creating a 7.5W45 cocktail. Yes, that is how it works.

So far this has been VERY maintainable. The downside is that once electronics begin to fail, this is a vastly more difficult beast to diagnose than a 356. Pedro, with something above 300k, might want to weigh in.

Keep the rodents out! Keep the carpets dry! Keep the fluids fresh! And drive it. Heat drives off moisture and acids - its good for the car.

Grant

fleet as of today:

2004 986 (77k)
2000 986S track rat (264k)
2016 GT4 (27k)
2020 RAM 1500 Hemi tow vehicle (7k)
2002 Audi S6 Avant kinda normal car (117k)

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2021 07:28PM by grant. (view changes)

I still have a Clymer 912 shop manual. (Had a '66, my first car.) The wiring diagram looked kinda complex back in '72, and it was likely very similar to a 356 of any year. Getting the motor and transaxle out was simple: a few wires, fuel line, and linkages, and that was it.

Had a couple '70s Alfa Spiders, and they were electrically comparable to the 912, but in their Milanese way.
I loved the valve adjustment system: little steel pucks of various thicknesses fitting between the valve stems and "buckets," all under the camshafts. (Don't let that master chain link clip go flying into the grass, or worse, down the crankcase!)

In '88 bought new a CRX Si, and got the official main shop and electrical manuals.
This was my introduction to (ok, rudimentary) computer systems, quite a leap from the previous cars.

Then a 2001 Boxster. The Bentley manual was an excellent resource for understanding the car, but the circuit diagrams look like the street plan for a future megapolis.

Now, with the 13S, the Technik manual serves as a thorough overview of the car, and it tells me how much more complex it is than the '01.
Aside from the factory tool kit and wheel changing stuff, the only tool in the trunk is a medium-sized Leatherman. Anything past changing one of the few incandescents, it goes to pros.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/23/2021 09:21PM by Laz. (view changes)

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

Unexpectedly huge images, but more legible, if anything.
Maybe you can get it/order it from a dealer. My sales guy gave it to me when I took delivery back in 2012.


Some very good systemic descriptions, eg:

Also a sticker with a UPC graphic and the number "4800."