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They don't require oil pressure - 4 years ago

The tensioner is filled with oil, which dampens the action of the spring. You prefill them before installing. If your engine doesn't have oil pressure you have bigger problems. The tensioner would have to have a prolonged period without oil (such as a clog) to lose its oil since it's mostly captive. You don't need to replace them to fix a clog in most cases. That said, If the early ones don't fi

I installed the first one - 4 years ago

But note that they all have springs. The one with no visible spring has a stiff spring on the inside.

All versions have springs - 4 years ago

The cam chain tensioners (there are 3 of them) were upgraded to a newer design but it's not a fundamental difference. I agree that it was a bit confusing to figure out which ones were the right ones to get.

I installed upgraded tensioners in my 1999 - 4 years ago

and it made no perceptible difference in startup rattle. However, running a can and a half of Liqui Moly 20004 Hyrdaulic Lifter additive in my oil made a huge difference. It turns out that the tiny oil passages that lubricate the lifters get clogged over time.

Sorry, but I agree - 4 years ago

Separating the top and bottom tubes is difficult enough. And the angle is super awkward, making it an "interesting" exercise. I would probably replace them both together.

Also relevant - 4 years ago

Pictures of the X12 plug (shown in first diagram) and how to access it. This is the passenger side but the driver's side (X11) is the same, except white in color. [986forum.com] I would start here because you don't know if the problem is before or after this point and it will save you time. Specifically I would test that Pin 5 on the X11 plug and the X12 plug are connected to each other, as the

Diagrams - 4 years ago

Clarification? - 4 years ago

When you pull on the door handle (interior or exterior) the window on that side should drop a little bit (1" or so). If you release the latch without opening the door it should immediately go back up. If you open the door, it should stay dropped until you close the door, and then it should go up. The purpose is to allow the window to go up into the rubber molding when the door is shut. When you

There are two microswitches in the convertible top latch mechanism - 4 years ago

One enables the top to operate and the other causes the window to drop. As strange as it may sound, if the latter is malfunctioning, sometimes one window will go down and not the other due to the unpredictable nature of bouncing electrical circuits. The window drop feature is controlled by a single signal from the relay that is sent to both window motors. So if one window is going down, the prob

Microswitches - 4 years ago

Which microswitches did you test and how did you test them? Does the driver's side window make any sound (click, clunk, anything else) when it's supposed to go down or is it completely silent?

oil filler tube - 4 years ago

it has two parts, each of which is known to crack with age and stress

Mechanics should be charging - 4 years ago

For their labor, at a published rate, for parts, with a modest markup, and for shop supplies. Prices are often too high because the mechanic replaces parts that don't need to be replaced, use expensive parts, or markup the parts too much. I always recommend people who get estimates get a breakdown of what is being done, including parts & labor for everything. That said, everyone has a diff

Replace only as necessary - 4 years ago

The rotors don't need to be replaced anywhere near as often as the pads. If the rotors aren't warped (spoiler: they're not) and they're not worn down (which can be determined by inspection) then don't replace them. $600 to replace 2 brake pads and sensors is too high. Parts should be under $100 and replacement should be an hour or less. Similarly, his rotor replacement price is way too high. Th

Note - 4 years ago

While bleeding the clutch, the pedal should be held to the floor

Perhaps he has a pebble caught in his tire - 4 years ago

n/t

The first thing I would do is bleed the clutch - 4 years ago

It's easy to do and if it hasn't been done in 125k miles, disengagement will be dicey.

FYI - 4 years ago

the front trunk levers are locked when you arm the immobilizer so if your battery dies you won't be able to easily get into the front trunk to jumpstart the car (unless you've already rerouted the release cable, in which case nvm).

Nope - 4 years ago

As long as the battery is connected, if you lock the door with the key the immobilizer is activated and the levers are locked. Really, if you reroute the frunk release cable to just inside the tow hook, you can open it in about 10 seconds even if the battery is dead.

Manual trunk lever is locked with the alarm - 4 years ago

As JM has mentioned, when you arm the immobilizer on a car with manual trunk releases, the releases are mechanically locked. If your battery is dead and the alarm is on, you can open the door with the key but you cannot get into the front trunk. I recommend you find and try using the manual front trunk release cable before your trip just in case. Many people reroute the cable to just inside the

Are you trying to get a jack stand under the front? - 4 years ago

If so, the easiest safe way to do that is to jack up high from the rear jack point

China is a big market - 4 years ago

I think it will do well

Pics - 4 years ago

Also, hose removal hooks are indispensable in a job like this. Just make sure not to poke it through the hose.

Definitely nothing to lose sleep over - 4 years ago

The exhaust won't affect the O2 sensor readings unless you also changed the cats. This code means that the O2 sensor heating circuit is not functioning properly. It could be the electrical circuit, the connector, or the sensor. I would start by checking fuse C2 (oxygen sensor heater power), then checking that the electrical plug is corrosion-free and seated properly. Then I would test that the O

That works - 4 years ago

I've also seen people use velcro

Another way - 4 years ago

Get one that comes with this little clip. You get everything installed, then position the clamp in place and pull the clip off.

Both known problems - 4 years ago

Mirror trim The panel is held in by a clip on the top and two little blue grommets on the bottom. The clip is a little fiddly and so sometimes people don't clip it right. Other times they break it. Pull the piece up and out and check the back of it to see that the clip on the top is intact and that the two blue grommets are in place. The blue pieces are super cheap to replace if you need to. In

^^^ what he said - 4 years ago

there's only one possible source of oil upstream of the intake headers unless someone is filling the snorkel with oil, which I presume you would have mentioned

Doubt it - 4 years ago

The snorkel clips in pretty strongly. Unless someone messed with it it won't come off. The secondary air pump is on the other side of the car. You should be able to see the snorkel through the side vent with a flashlight. That said, I can't explain the noise.

Thanks for the video - 4 years ago

Great memories, can't wait until the next one

I've seen scads of reports - 4 years ago

of people with > 100K miles on their car replacing their IMS out of fear and discovering that the IMS is in perfect condition.