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I agree. I suspect that someone wanted an aggressive suspension setup. If you made the rear more neutral, you will probably get better wear. To be clear, 15K is very short in the absence of track or other aggressive abuse.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
It will be good to keep you around for a while longer. In addition to the new tires,, I might suggest getting the suspension/alignment checked. That is a lot of wear on the extreme inside of the tire. That looks a little unusual. The wear could be made more even. I do wonder if that kind of wear indicates you are not getting the best contact patch for the kind of driving you do. Bottom line,by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
you should see his main mansion.....by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
just curious, as it might affect how people view it. Some might look more closely - others might skip admin stuff.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
That is actual diagnosis. We cannot have that.....by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
So the last time this code appeared, I just reset and waited - it could have been a number of things. Based on the above code, I guess "intermittent" was an understatement as 3 years passed. This time, the code has been thrown 3 times in 3 weeks. So not so intermittent any more. I have the sense that I will be under the car soon.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
and I have the terminal in the fusebox. I bought my car in February, so appx. halfway in the MY cycle. I have had the battery mostly flat on two occassions. One time I was able to bump start. Problem solved. The second time, I used the terminal. Note to self, I need to fish out the cable.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I have one and use it often.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I am guessing, but it appears the clamp was correctly placed, but the pipes were not correctly seated. Over time, the clamp compressed the larger pipe off of the end of the smaller pipe. So the clamp and pipe moved together. But again, that is a guess. I am assuming it happened when the engine was replaced years ago?? Not sure when that pipe would otherwise have been touched. The diameterby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I am certain there are photos etc, but I did not really use any. I was looking for leaks and found an obvious one. Looking from back to front, the pipe runs almost directly below the rear/right spin lock and the joint is toward the center from the AOS.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I am certain there are photos etc, but I did not really use any. I was looking for leaks and found an obvious one. Looking from back to front, the pipe runs almost directly below the rear/right spin lock and the joint is a few inches closer to the center of the engine. There is a pic in this thread from another board....by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
They had worked apart over time. pushing them back together was the hard part. And yes, I cleaned the engine as best I could. Used electric parts cleaner - as that was the only thing on hand. Basically used the whole can and it worked very well. Too bad the area was not a well ventilated as I thought. Even with a fan running under the car, I was VERY light headed. But it all worked out aftby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
It took substantial force to push the two ends back together. There is a little nub and a receptacle for said nub that must meet. I think the clamp must have shrunken the larger pipe or something. But it is in.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
disconnect the battery, put something over the hood latch to make sure the frunk does not inadvertently shut closed with no power. Wait 10 minutes to be certain the system is discharged and you should be good to go.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
Found one obvious leak. The bad news is that is WAS in the oil fill pipe. The "good" news is that the pipe did not fail, the clamp between the two portions of the pipe slid off? The pipes were still connected -- mostly. But I am stunned oil did not go all over the top of the engine when filling. Also surprised it did not throw codes. But we will see. Perhaps the friction fit was enough to pby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
It is decently local for me. Looking to make a plan, but seems viable.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
If so, do you still have them.? It was like a theme for a bit.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I seem to recall it was by HelpmeDIY. He basically took apart the whole thing and demonstrated the where and how of the microswitches. I think he might also have shown how to bypass one or the other. That said, there are several components that might be malfunctioning.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
Maybe you posted early, but that is not a problem. Someone likely would have posted a checklist and the fuse would have been on it. So you winby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
That replacement looks like a bear. Plastic crap falling apart. Plus it looks like I am likely to break other plastic connectors for things that might be in the way. urrrg.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I expect this weekend or next to be under my car in search of the source of an oil leak. I am aware of some of the common areas, but not all. This leak is clearly higher up on the engine than the crankcase for instance. Is there a list of common leak points? I might as well start somewhere. My suspicion is the oil cooler area, but that is rote speculation on my part.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
those ball ends are meant to be sacrificial. Make sure you lube the entire operation and inspect cables and such. But otherwise - good catch.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
If you are talking about DEALER quotes in the NY Metro, that might be in the range. But for a decent independent, I submit it is high. I get that they quote from the book or whatever and I get that the mark up stuff through the roof, but the parts are NOT the expensive. Check FCP Euro and other sites. The work is much easier than on many of my other cars. Remember, in theory, they are supposedby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
The automatic opening from the key gets disabled after a couple/few days. I forget how long exactly. Once started, everything should work as normal. glad the trip worked out.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
You will not need any significant tools - a basic garage kit might be fine with a couple extra sockets. If you can change a tire, you can do this job. There are phenomenal instructions out there. Either way, the numbers you are being quoted are stupid high. As Stefan suggested, the rotors are often fine. Further, the rear pads/rotors are often good for double the life of the fronts.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I will state that on the one occasion that my battery was totally dead, the front truck could not be opened from the latch on the driver's door. I was surprised at the time, but using the bar in the fuse box was easy enough. It popped almost right away.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
This is the one I was referring to... Third Method Inside the top of the driver's front wheel well, just aft of the spring coil mount, is a little rectangular corner in the black plastic shroud that lines the inside of the wheel well. Reach under this, and you will feel a "wire" about 1/8" in diameter. Too thick for an electrical wire (and not in a harness anyway). Tug this cable gently outby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum