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My wife suggested the wooden -beaded thing cabbies use. The color would be close.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I am thinking about using the shop near Springfield, but it would help to have a reference.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I have been looking to get repaired. None of the shops has quoted anything normal. But now with three tears, repair will almost certainly be close to or exceed a whole new cover. I was quoted $750 for driver and passenger covers in OEM 1/2 leather - 1/2 vinyl. Or $895 for full leather. Installation was like $400 for both seats. (If I left my car in Mass. for the work.) They will ship hereby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
Not sure what happend, but within 8 days, three separate tears appeared in my seat bottom. I suspect a combination of heat, age and the phone in my back pocket conspired.... So best course? Do I order a new seat cover? From whom? Do I have a new cover made? Appx $1200 per estimate. Do I take the opportunity to get better more comfortable seats? Just something else to deal with.....by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I learned a ton from this video. There is a series of troubleshooting steps - some of which I knew - others were novel. The poster also offered several easy fixes. Bottom line - I learned a bunch of stuff. Worth the time to watch even if you do not have current top problems.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
but that is a guess. it could be zet - ickby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I get the kid made a colossal mistake, but how bad do you have to be for a family member to have you arrested? I suppose I get it if we are talking third cousin twice removed or step brother in law. Otherwise, not so much. In the US - there might be insurance issues.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
That sounds like the car went into storage right after it was purchased. If that number i correct, there could be any number of issues as seals, o-rings etc dry and crack. On the other hand, I would think the electrics would be less suspect due to few heat cycles and other lack of use. Depending where it was stored, there could be corrosion, so no matter what - before you swap parts, clean allby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
If you have a BS code reader, it is generally called I/M readiness test. I just drove around until the test read - "ready" There is actual cycle you can find online that you can use to get it ti tick over.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
there might be the equivalent of a no questions asked exchange policy. I would bet that with a newish battery, it will charge again. But if the battery is fully discharged, bad things can happen including decreased life of the battery. So if you can replace it - why not?by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
It remains passing strange that stuff that is standard on all manner of pedestrian cars remain as high cost options on P-cars, if the options are even available. And I am talking about a 20 year old Buick remember. If alone, I would always take the Boxster or the 3-series for a road trip. I was "commuting" bi-weekly about 7 hours each way. I used several different cars over time. The Boxsterby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
Last week I obtained a 2000 Buick for my 16 year old to drive. One owner - stupid well mechanically maintained. Not so much for appearances - but that is coming back with modest elbow grease. It has 20 years of use, but the Buick looks dang good. The Boxster looks better in every respect and is almost as well maintained. It did get driven less. The Buick was all but free. (Like under $1kby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
It strikes me as unusual that the noise didn't change as between moving and not moving. One would think the torque of propelling the wheels - or the reverse torque of deceleration would have a noticeable effect. Curious.... But I am glad you have a relatively benign resolution. No go enjoy the thing.....by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
You say there is a low pitched groany vibration but no discernible loss of power? Is there an obvious change in RPM? Any other engine related symptom? If the engine runs normally - no loss of power, stable RPM, and consistent delivery under load vs off - that sounds more like a mechanical problem more distant than the engine. I think I might start with the tires. Make sure they are in balaby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
Sounds familiar. It was a bear of a job.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
here are the schematics for the door: I have it in my head that there is a plasticized foam sheet (as opposed to plastic like in GM) between the door and the door card to force water to the bottom, depicted in the second link as #4. Wet door cards are often caused by a defect in that liner. But as you note, it could also be a plugged drain. If that were the case, I would expect to hear watby JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
I sound that it was easier to use the spring clamps in some locations and easier to use the "jubilee" style clamps in other places. I was using the "remote" extended spring hose clamp pliers. If I had new in package spring clips, they might have been easier in all places. But I used what I had without issues.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
Within 4 years he was designing Formula engines. Within 10 years he was the head of the engine department. He must have had an extraordinary gift.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
And It is not like the installation is particularly complex - even for a non-mechanic like me.by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum
Still has the same symptoms. It takes 10-30 seconds (depending upon temp) to release the tumbler and allow the key to be reinserted. It is mostly a nuisance because it is rare that I need to reinsert the key within 30 seconds. But it will not get better over time, just worse. And I have time to work on the car - so....by JM-Stamford,CT - Main Forum