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2003 S with 130K miles.... smokes like blown AOS only when accelerating hard going up hill. AOS is new and checks OK with manometer. I suspect failed scavenger pump and would love to hear thoughts from the gang. There are no strange noises and the car runs great with normally expected power and does not smoke except as noted above. Is it likely that the scavenger pump is just worn out? Do they iby JerryW - Main Forum
Yes.. the massive smoke bombs are gone and my neighbors are happy once more. While I have the floor, I have a couple of suggestions that might help anyone contemplating a DIY AOS replacement: the first is stolen from someone on YouTube and his stroke of genius is to use long nose vise grip pliers to release the lower hose spring clamp and to not release them until the hose is securely in place oby JerryW - Main Forum
MY 2003 S had the classic symptoms so I replaced the AOS, but for grins I tore the old one apart and was surprised to find the diaphram intact. This got me to wondering if there are other common failure modes with the AOS. Anyone with experience to share? My engine was smoking massively and the intake tubes were loaded with oil,and with the new unit installed all is well so I have to believe theby JerryW - Main Forum
Cleaned the drive mechanism thoroughly and lubricated well with gear oil and all is well!by JerryW - Main Forum
Car is 2003 S 6 sp with 120K miles and a strange starter problem. When cold I can hear the starter motor running but apparently not engaging with the flywheel. After two or three tries it starts as expected. Battery is new and cranks vigorously when the starter engages properly. Is this likely to be a starter drive problem? And, is it likely to be fixable or am I in for a new starter? As alwaysby JerryW - Main Forum
I'll put my money on a wheel bearing failure. My hearing isn't too great but dragging brakes don't squeak to me... they gggrrr.by JerryW - Main Forum
The owner's manual for your car that I found on-line (in Chinese, page 190) shows the pull-out emergency terminal on the fuse panel. The procedure for energizing it should be in your manual. Hook up your battery (+ to the pull-out, - to the door latch) and you're good to go.by JerryW - Main Forum
Interesting but not relevant to my 2003S. Where you have levers, I have switches. Still hoping that someone with time to burn will suss out the circuitry related to the pull-out fuse terminal. I would love to find out why it no longer works. Any masochists out there in Boxsterville?by JerryW - Main Forum
Not known for my patience,after removing all the fasteners on the sides and bottom of the bumper cover and still being unable to locate the release cable, I gave a hardy yank and pulled the top away, tearing out the two fasteners remaining. The rain gutter twist lock fasteners don't secure the bumper cover so they are not an issue. To wrap things up, I re-routed the the cable with an extensionby JerryW - Main Forum
Good news...I found the release cable albeit with the loop tucked under the headlight fixture. It was necessary to completely remove the bumper cover to get at it. With the battery charging away the frunk and trunk release like magic.Maybe there is light at the end of the tunnel. Thank you all for being so helpful. Be safe. Jerryby JerryW - Main Forum
JM I think you and Pedro are talking about the same thing i.e. the emergency power pull-out on the fuse panel.The cigar lighter idea may be worth a shot. Pedro, I've tried putting power to the pull-out and it draws absolutely no current (measured with my DMM) so my suspicion is that something has disabled it's function. Contrary to what I said in my OP, I'm now inclined to believe that the pullby JerryW - Main Forum
I'm trying to use the emergency trunk release feature by attaching a good battery to the pull-out terminal in the fuse panel. This has worked a few times in the past but now neither frunk nor trunk responds. I've checked the current draw from the auxiliary battery and there is zip. So I went for the emergency release cable shown in the Bentley book and after drawing blood and bruises managed to gby JerryW - Main Forum
I'm not a tech either and a week ago i didn't even know the car had a SAI system. That said, I am somewhat enlightened thanks to Bentley which has a very clear and concise explanation of what it is and how it works. The explanation makes clear that the system fires up for just a few seconds on cold starts to satisfy the Cal clean air folks then shuts down. For what its worth, in my case all compoby JerryW - Main Forum
Finally some good news! Thank you Pedro. I'm in Washington State so the SIA system is headed for the S-can.What is needed to re-program the car to ROW specs? I this a Porsche dealer deal or can an indy do the trick.by JerryW - Main Forum
OK then..second questionince I have learned that the left bank injection port is buried under the intake manifold and is totally inaccessible without removing the manifold, I'm hoping that someone has devised a method of unclogging the port thru the steel pipe leading from the shutoff valve. Any and all ideas appreciated! In a profound sense of dispare I'll venture a third question: is it possibby JerryW - Main Forum
Car is 2003 S with 130k. Fault code PO491 "'secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1'". Since the code is specific to the left bank I'm guessing that the pump, vac tank and the various other bits are OK. Before I start tearing things apart I would Iike to check air flow at the left bank injection port...if only I could find it. I would be most grateful if some kind person could tby JerryW - Main Forum
For what it's worth...I have read (and strongly believe) that none of the magic tricks e.g. switching the key off and on, jumping up and down and sacrificing a chicken will work on the 986. The situation with the 987 and later models is different and they do succumb to the magic if applied appropriately. The 986 can only be "reprogrammed" with the dealers magic box (PS1?) BTW turning the batteryby JerryW - Main Forum
For about $15 you could replace the turn signal flasher relay (Nbr. 3 in the panel by the dead pedal). As yours flashed a few times and then died, I'd be inclined to go there first before ripping into other stuff.by JerryW - Main Forum
I'll give it a try and post the results. Thanks for the input.by JerryW - Main Forum
Turn signal lever is not returning properly so a new switch is probably in order. Before I spring the $250 for a new switch I wonder if anyone could shed some light on what goes wrong with the mechanics of the switch and if there is any chance of repairing it. Car is 2003 S. Thanks for any and all input.by JerryW - Main Forum
Thanks for the reply Pedro. All hose connections are tight as are the mounting bolts. And, of course, when I started it to check for fault codes...no smoke! What the...? I swear there was a ton of smoke the previous half dozen start ups. A very good tool (Blue Streak-Pro) shows no codes and all devices working properly. I'm open for any further suggestions for things to check.by JerryW - Main Forum
2003 S with 100K miles...AOS failed catastrophically with no warning at all...just a mass of smoke. I installed a new AOS and for a few hundred miles everything seemed OK once my knuckles healed. Just recently I started getting a lot of smoke on start up which lasts for maybe 15 seconds or so then it clears up. The engine starts and runs fine. Is it likely that the new AOS is failing or shouldby JerryW - Main Forum
I agree with the comments about torquing the axle nut...should be simple with a breaker bar and a short length of pipe. The nut should not be re-used. I'm wondering if it is possible to remove the axle without removing the diagonal brace under the engine and swinging the wheel carrier outboard. Is there room enough to drop the transmission-end of the axle and pull it out of the wheel carrier in sby JerryW - Main Forum
Very commonly used by we sailboaters. If there is a West Marine store in your area they will have them.by JerryW - Main Forum
Thanks to you all for your suggestions. After checking everything possible on the outside I broke down and pulled the wheel apart. What I found was that the wheel bearing was loose on the hub. To be more precise, one half of the bearing was still in the pressed-on condition and the other half had loosened and worn the hub diameter down by -I'm guessing here- something on the order of .5mm resultby JerryW - Main Forum
I have a very nasty crunching/grinding/growling sound coming from (I think) the right rear wheel. Half shaft was replaced with rebuilt unit about 2k miles back because of torn boot. I would welcome thoughts about how to determine if it's a wheel bearing, CV joint or something else. The noise is always present when I first hit the road and seems to disappear at speed. It is very apparent at very lby JerryW - Main Forum
When up shifting in the lower gears I hear a distinct "clunk". CV joints are new and I just installed a new front motor mount and yet the clunk is still there. Car is 2003 S with just under 80K miles. I looked all around while under the car doing the motor mount swap but saw nothing obvious. My imagination is now running wild and I think the noise is louder since installing the new motor mount. Wby JerryW - Main Forum
Yes...the motor mount is the original. Thanks to Pedro's DIY it looks like a relatively easy replacement so I'll give it go. Thanks for the input.by JerryW - Main Forum