Show all posts by userDiscussion of Boxsters and other Porsches |
Anytime you have the car hooked up to a PIWIS or Durametric system, check the CPS deviation values (or the actual cam values when the VarioCam is active); if the values are steady (particularly during RPM transitions from increasing to decreasing), the IMS is probably fine. But if (particularly at an idle) the deviation values are moving back and forth, pull the oil and filter looking for the feby JFP in PA - Main Forum
If you have either totally drained the system or opened up the pump and valving system for repairs. For regular brake system flushes, it is not necessary....by JFP in PA - Main Forum
There are those that think it matters, and those that think it does not. And nothing said here is going to alter the population of either camp................by JFP in PA - Main Forum
As for changing it, it has been an issue for cars that are tracked heavily and tend to over heat the power steering system, which usually also claims the pump as well. Several aftermarket shops have been looking at developing cooler kits for the power steering, including LN Engineering.by JFP in PA - Main Forum
Only here it’s the Porsche logo………………by JFP in PA - Main Forum
Remember to use LocTite and torque to specs.by JFP in PA - Main Forum
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The tensioner pulley is a little bit different. It is attached to a spring-loaded arm via a single bolt that is backwards in orientation from the other two idler pulleys. It is a righthanded thread. You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when yoby JFP in PA - Main Forum
And you should be fine. Some would say doing all of them is over kill, but they all have the same running time on them as the one that dies, and you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road because you saved a few bucks..............by JFP in PA - Main Forum
Sounds like you are in the market for either rebuilding the idlers, or replacing them....by JFP in PA - Main Forum
An improperly installed, or wrong length helicoil, and there was a problem. I'm not at all surprised. These inserts come in many different lengths as well as diameters; I personally have seen people screw up the installation of helicoils in every way possible; wrong size drill used, not drilled straight, wrong tap used, wrong size helicoil used, no LocTite, etc., etc.......... If you do not foby JFP in PA - Main Forum
The yellow arrow points to the microswitch that prevents the car from starting if you don't have the pedal pushed in. The red switch is the one that deactivates the cruise control when you push the clutch in.by JFP in PA - Main Forum
Very simple; yes, you drill the hole to a larger size, but then you run a tap thru the larger hole, threading it to accept the helicoil's outside threads. You then screw in the insert with LocTite on it. When finished, the insert will accept your original stock caliper bolts. I think Helicoil has a video of the process on their website……………by JFP in PA - Main Forum
Just be sure the carrier's are OK, run a thread chaser thru the bolt holes, then blow them out and look carefully with a bright light source. Unfortunately, your butt will be the first to know if the treads were not adequate, so a close inspection now is a worthwhile endeavor..............by JFP in PA - Main Forum
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Yes, you should be concerned as loss of threaded area in the caliper. Suggest looking at installing a Helicoil thread insert into the damaged openings... You will end up with steel threads for the bolts to grab onto. You will need to drill out and re-tap the damaged holes, but they sell complete kits to make this an easy fix.by JFP in PA - Main Forum
I also use PB Blaster, but follow it up with white lithium grease spray.by JFP in PA - Main Forum
Ctek 3300, about $50, has multiple lights to indicate charge state.....by JFP in PA - Main Forum
n/tby JFP in PA - Main Forum
n/tby JFP in PA - Main Forum
More likely, the o-ring on the canister is pinched or split. The canister itself may be cracked, but that usually occurs near the bottom as the top area is thicker. You can simply buy a new filter, it will come with a new o-ring, replace the filter and o-ring (being sure to lubricate the o-ring before screwing on the canister), torque the canister to spec, top off your oil level, and the probleby JFP in PA - Main Forum
n/tby JFP in PA - Main Forum
Syntec, particularly the 10W-40, is very good at eliminating start up noise due to its inherently superior film strength when compared to M1 0W-40. Customers that have had issues with cold start noise on M1 consistently say that the Castrol has stopped the problem. Unfortunately, the occasional puff of smoke at start up is a common event on flat six design engines, so I cannot tell you that itby JFP in PA - Main Forum
If you are referring to how does it compare with a failing IMS bearing, as I mentioned earlier, once the seal is going, no oil is going to prevent the inevitable.by JFP in PA - Main Forum
The synthetics will wash the grease out faster, but as the oil only gets into the bearing when the seal starts to fail, and the conventional oils will also do it, just at a somewhat slower rate. Unfortunately, there is no way for you to know when this has begun, so using conventional oil while waiting is going to take its toll on your engine in other ways. Changing the oil, conventional or synthby JFP in PA - Main Forum
"Dino" oils are not, in fact, better lubricants than full synthetics, which is why synthetics cost more, and are the preferred oil in high performance applications. The problem with the IMS bearing is that when the seals fail and the high pressure grease gets washed out, there is no real way for the engine to get a constant feed of oil to it under pressure (the IMS shaft is rotating and the beariby JFP in PA - Main Forum