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It's a classic! (For the viewing public, the wearer of said t-shirt in this photo is ROCBXTR. I believe we are all smiles because it was before the event unfolded with 6 cars starting the F1 race the next day...)by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
With PCA we run 103db days there and my race exhaust, which is nothing special, is apparently teetering on or over the edge of that, so I need to bolt on the elbows at Laguna. It's really simple and effective for what I need. For some reason, even though Thunderhill and Sonoma Sears Point have a 103db limit all the time, I don't have issues there at all. Unfortunately, one time I exited the carby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
For Spec Boxster ( SPB ) the rules require the roof -- either the factory hardtop (which you can gut to lose weight) or an aftermarket fiberglas replica like the one I have. I think the fiberglas top is only around 10 lbs. though I'm not sure if that includes the lexan rear window. The stock hardtop (which is plush and nicely soundproofed with heated rear glass) is around 50 lbs. if I recall, butby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Decaf and bran muffin, which car is which? Neither, I would think!by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
This is a big Porsche anniversary at 75. I guess for a few people on this board, we still have our cars at around the 25 year mark. Here's my car when brand new in May 1998 -- 25 years! And a couple of photos of it in current form at Laguna Seca. I'll be racing it at Rennsport Reunion VII in the PCA Club Racing group. It is not on the first (or 2nd or 3rd) engine at this point, but is still inby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I replaced all 3 of mine when I put a used engine block in my car. They are all distinct part numbers. Easy to replace. I recall that the tensioner roller is a bit different but also simple. The other two are just remove bolt + replace bolt. (I hope I'm not forgetting something!)by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
This looks OK but being a long, straight piece of metal is quite limiting to what it can access. The screw mechanism looks tedious. Do a web search for "remote hose clamp tool" and the main items that come up look like what I have. It works really well. The thing that grabs the clamp tabs is at the end of a cable so it can reach anywhere. The squeeze handle compresses or releases the clamp tabsby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
A couple of basic screws and push-rivets... I keep a bunch of each of things including these on hand in a little sorting bin: Pretty sure you will need a couple of these: 999-507-497-40 And a couple of these: 999-073-080-02 Hopefully your car still has the other end of what the screw goes into: 99959169901 (They come in different sizes, but this looks normal to me) This guy is used all oveby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
That was terrific! Lots of great details about the differences between 987 years/models/trims. Especially for a 986 owner like me. I am kind of shocked at how pristine and clean the underside of his green car is.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Love it! Congratulations, Doug.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Ah, message overlap. Whatever Pedro says is to be trusted, no doubt!by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Look at this diagram: The bolt would seem to be item #10: 99907203101 The matching nut -- if there is one -- seems to be #8: 99907605301 Can be found here:by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
QuoteSMILIN Trygve...Sonoma or Thunderhill? I'm ready for a drive and social call. Also, FYI, the 2nd and 3rd pics in the thread are from 2009. The car does still look good...but not that good. Having raised the car back to 4x4 height is the reason that I'm tightening up the front end...the underside plastic and tub really took a beating over the years while lowered. Thunderhill, 5-mile coby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Car still looks great! Tentatively planning to get mine out to the track on June 1.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I didn't know you still had the '98 ... you also recently got a new-ish blue-ish modern Boxster, too, right? Just checked -- I had not realized that my 986 has gone past the 150K mark. Probably 2 years ago, given how racing miles only accumulate slowly. 22 years in May!by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
First day at the track, Nov 1998. Who's that tall guy smilin in front?by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Nothing wrong with any of the rotors, really. Drilled are just most prone to early replacement (i.e. before they are "worn down" to minimum thickness) due to cracks emanating from the holes. The other types of rotor can still develop tiny "crackles" that lead to cracks, but it takes longer for the cracks to become worrisome. Among the SPB racers, I don't hear people discussing performance differeby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Yes, they will develop cracks at the holes over time, and therefore generally do not last as long as non-drilled or slotted rotors. They may also wear out the pads more quickly. Slotted rotors work better. However, drilled rotors do work, and if you are diligent about inspecting them thoroughly you can avoid a last minute surprise that gets in the way of a track day. Just be sure to really checkby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
QuotePedro (Weston, FL) I'm so happy with my '98! Next year she's getting a full restoration so I can enjoy her another 21 years. I'm curious to hear what a "full restoration" includes, Pedro! Sounds interesting.... I still love shifting my 20.5 year old 986, too. However there are a few places where I used to shift down to 2nd that I now keep it in 3rd. Places where the time/speed differenceby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
After much procrastinating due to worrying about doing it wrong, on Sunday I cut the wiring harness and replaced the right front with the Porsche ABS wiring harness repair kit. I was first able to prove the problem was in the RF harness by letting the car idle and then wiggling the loose harness in the wheel well. ABS light went immediately on when I did that, with the expected ground/short errorby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Thanks, Pedro. I actually did get some info indicating a splice location for the passenger side that is on that side, rather than doing both on the driver side. I can see where that wire bundle is accessible before it goes into the dash grommet and the interior. I will be deliberate and careful!by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I've had intermittent ABS error warnings on my Spec Boxster for a while. The error codes move around to different corners of the car, usually indicating a ground circuit fault. New sensors / swapping sensors has not helped, so I believe some part of the ABS wiring has been damaged while working on suspension r&r. I now have the Porsche ABS wiring repair kits in hand for the front L & R wby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Boxsterra, thanks for the reminder photo. That's what I was expecting. The front ball joint (toe link) came off very easily. I used an impact wrench to loosen the nut without needing to use the torx to hold the bolt. Then the tool pressed the joint apart quickly and without a bang. The rear ball joint (control arm) came off "normally". A socket took the nut off fairly easily without the bolt tuby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
That's weird. The only time I've seen the ball joint tool fail to work was when the user set it up wrong and it was just working against itself until the tool broke! (Stripped the threads on the separator bolt.) Fortunately I had a spare tool so we were able to continue. Coincidentally, this weekend I'm going to remove the LF wheel carrier. I need to install a new Tarett long drop link collar onby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Grant -- maybe you can clarify what is not coming apart, but I think you are talking about the ball joints where the control arm & tie rod attach to the wheel carrier. Not necessarily in this order, you should: - Remove all brake stuff, wiring (ABS sensor etc.). At this point you have 3 nuts/bolts holding the wheel carrier to the car. - Remove the pinch bolt, so that the PSS9 is loosened froby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Awesome, Doug! I'm coming up on 20 x 986 in a couple of months, too. That photo and how you've outfitted the car looks about as close as you can get to the prototype/show car.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I see Kevin a few times a year at our CFRA track events and related gatherings. He's doing well, seems to spend a decent amount of time each year at the old family house on the coast of Norway. I'll tell him you said hi!by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
QuotePedro (Weston, FL) ... what's your Club Race schedule for 2018. I'll try to make some out west and it would be nice if we coincide. Happy Boxstering, Pedro It would be great to see you, Pedro! I usually go to all of the club races at Thunderhill, Laguna Seca, and Sonoma (Sears Point). There are usually 2 at TH (and 2 at Buttonwillow), 1 at LS and SP. This year I decided to ease off a bit (sby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
QuoteSMILIN your leather bits are still serving me well Thanks, Doug! I was tempted to post a photo of some embarrassing random leather clothing and say "well it fits you better now anyway", but this is a family friendly site.... (When I gutted the interior of my car during the Spec Boxster conversion process, Doug purchased the leather seats and other items, if I recall. Door panels? Consoleby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum