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And i flush at least annually. NBD. easier to use the extra 1 oz. Grantby grant - Main Forum
So, i have no idea what exactly broke. But: 1. on older VWs and Audis the voltage regulator ( a 3 -terminal black plastic device) was known to die. Could be. 2. But you also say the printed circuits are breaking. How? Rubbed off? Cracked? If so, and you can get it out, bridge it -- either with solder or with a small wire that you solder on. If its multi-layer, you're , uh, have a problem. I doby grant - Main Forum
You actually dont want to change all of it. There has been much debate about a complete flush causing troubles since the fluid is suddenly so much more detergent. Do NOT flush (thought i said that) - simply drain what comes out when you drop the pan. Clean pan. replace filter. Then, if you want to be really good, do another service 30-40k miles later - you will change another 50% - now you arby grant - Main Forum
you have checked all the nuts, bolts, fuel lines, brake bleeder nipples, electrical connections etc and they are the same as cars that have not been near the ocean? I find that hard to believe - but encouraging if true. note also that a car that is used and washed, especially with a car wash which gets underneath, is less likely to corrode. We're not talking surface corrosion here.... Grantby grant - Main Forum
unless you race or track the car, or abuse it, near anything "good" ( meaning ACEA A3 rated) is just fine. Unless the oil is over 100 degc and turning at hgih rpms continuously, AND under heavy load, any old 5w30 is probably fine - if its clean, free of acid, and free of moisture. (anyone really disagree?) If you only drive warm weather, thick oil is certainly beneficial - although it eats someby grant - Main Forum
Syntec 20w50; Syntec 10w40; M1 10w40 HM? Or somewhere else besides wally world? I often buy ELF/total synthetic from my local indie - just to support him ( and its very good oil). He would order anything i wanted. Fair price (long term customer price). What car are you driving, and what's you duty cycle that requires 15w50? ( yes i know we just had a big discussion, but for 95% of use, it realby grant - Main Forum
First, for many jobs i will do a better job than i can pay anyone to do. And this includes friends int he business. They say things like "you cant pay me to do that" :-) Plus, its more hassle to take a car and drop it off than to swap brake pads or change oil or do a filter. A good indie is certainly cheaper than a dealer. But that' not the only reason to find and use one. They, unfortunatby grant - Main Forum
Also, it wont fall apart, but every bolt will begin to get corroded. Contacts will get some corrosion. It will be subtle at first, but damaging. Salt air is very, very bad. If oyu live at the sea, great. But this is a cost. And parking it there unused can be avoided. Grantby grant - Main Forum
marc wrote: "Anyhow what I learned is the electronic oil level measurement system has no moving parts. A tube with holes drilled through it runs straight down through the top of the engine into the oil sump. At first I thought 'float' but no moving parts." By the way, the magnetic float makes a lot of sense, but certainly is vulnerable to sticking, if not likely. I'm so confused. Grantby grant - Main Forum
LT 71141 fluid. Do not use any random magic auto tranny fluid just because it sounds "good". Good means the right blend for these trannies. Damage can result! Grantby grant - Main Forum
if they are not lining up, your track width ( i think) may be changed. You might have the alignment checked. Pedro knows a lot more about that. Grantby grant - Main Forum
And sitting, with the bottom exposed, and not moving sounds pretty bad. The issue is corrosion of everything. Some will even make its way inside the motor. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Points required lots of upkeep and were notoriously unreliable. How unreliable is a dipstick? I'll go one further, carburetors. People bemoan the complexity of Fuel injection, i think its a darn miracle! And you never identified how the sensor lets me see or feel the condition of the oil, or get a drop to do a pH test, or...... From what you say, the systems should b very reliable. But again,by grant - Main Forum
self service with labor imputed. Grantby grant - Main Forum
If you mean M1, i believe it is 15w50. And either is marginally thick for Vermont int he winter. if you mean dino 20w50 - its definitely too thick for Vermont int he winter. Assuming you plan to drive the car. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Maybe more of a hassle, but cheaper for sure. Grantby grant - Main Forum
QuoteMarcW which I guess means if you believe the people advising you do this know more about the car and its engine and its oiling/lubrication requirements than the people who designed, built, and warranty the car you bought. Sincerely, MarcW. no need to believe that. I *know* from both friends who work in the auto industry, and fiends who formulate motor oil , that both are under significaby grant - Main Forum
takes about $800-$1400 annually to keep it on the road. That's my experience, but interestingly, it matches the figures "The Car Doctor" uses on WWOR radio ($122/yr - 100/mo). Since you have maintained your car and know its condition, i would avoid trading the angel you know for the (younger) devil you don't. Most people don't maintain cars like you do. there are several parts you need to thinkby grant - Main Forum
what should be used. The fluids - packaged by various firms and under several brands, are all the same - and i believe made by or to the specs of esso. Audi, Porsche and BMW all have a fluid. I used Audi fluid - it doesn't cost that much. Do not use normal ATF - even a magic brand. Magic is not listed in ZF's specs :-) Grantby grant - Main Forum
... vs boundary lubrication. I suggest people go and read what i wrote under "unpronounceable" but any soft metal or similar additive is a last resort under high pressure, sliding conditions when hydrodynamic lubrication fails. At this point all the talk of flow, viscosity, etc is moot. When does this occur? Under pretty extreme conditions. In fact, most of thsi talk matters not under say toby grant - Main Forum
If yes, then something has been damaged. Cant say what from here. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Service means filter, drop/clean pan, drain free fluid (35-50% of total fluid) - do not flush. Yes, it tends to lead to longer service lives. However, one common failure mode (in the higher power Audi's anyway) is a marginally sized torque converter. no amount of fluid changes will alter that weak point. I have seen very very few in the porsche world. I don't know why. Grantby grant - Main Forum
.. dipstick big time to sanity check the sensor, or to see or feel the condition of the oil. Grantby grant - Main Forum
My last was an (8m?) Are they still wildly load sensitive? Grantby grant - Main Forum
... premature failures. So changes are also an investment in fewer major repairs later. Of course, statistics mean that each individual may win or lose. Grantby grant - Main Forum
aside from being the real name for ZDDP. Note there are other additives that can perform the same function - many being soft metals. The issue is that under high pressure and wiping actions ( think: cams) you can go from Hydrodynamic lubrication ( all this stuff about weights and film strength out the window) to boundary lubrication - meaning the two parts just collided and are about to grind aby grant - Main Forum
I had 0W40 M1 in my 986. Was about to do a series of DEs for the hot summer. Decided to drain out 5 qts and put in 15w50 (so i now had a mix that was roughly 7.5W 45, yes, it really works that way..). Since it had < 1500 miles on it, i captured it in a clean container, and put it in my old Audi 2.8 v6. better than the 10w30 dino stuff it has survived on all these 15 years. Bear in mind thaby grant - Main Forum
And they all require lower zink, etc. I'll go one better based on non-exhaustive observation. The porsche spec is simple: ACEA A3/B4. Plus some minor addition. A3/B4 means HTHS >= 3.5+ (which is marginal) Grantby grant - Main Forum