Show all posts by userDiscussion of Boxsters and other Porsches |
And Porsche really has to go along with them. Add that to the fact that 99.x% of its customer base does not drive hard, and therefore does not need it, and voila. Yes, i'm somewhat cynical. But i've spent a lot of time on industry technical standards, and it ain't pretty. Ditto thin oil recommendations (5w20; 0w-anything, ...) - that's for CAFE. Grantby grant - Main Forum
ZF failures are nothing new in the Audi world....i wonder why they last so much better in porsches. Less torque i suppose. The 5HP19 is the same unit used in many Audis, including the B5/C5 2.7 bi-turbo models. The Audis even have porsche licensed tip software. Anyway, ZF does have a rebuild program, and some authorized re-builders. If you can get a true factory rebuild, that' probably the besby grant - Main Forum
Logic DM101 with custom billet adjustable VTA perch, and a Well Tempered Arm. Shame i let the dog chew on it :-)by grant - Main Forum
i agree with Pedro. ZDDP is being reduced for one reason: Catalytic Converter life. This is a good thing, on the surface. But if you dont burn oil, there is no way for the ZDDP to get to your cat a foul it. So, if you burn appreciable oil, avoid oil with hgih levels of ZDDP. If, like me, you appear to burn zero oil, WTFC? On a more general level, additives are the most costly component of oilby grant - Main Forum
Impossible to get the calipers off for starters. Dis-assembly of the calipers (floating, although about the best floating mech i've ever seen) is also a bear. I just rounded off a star nut (decided to re-grease by force and call that one a day). Bleeder nipples seize regularly. etc. The Porsche brembos are a pleasure to work on. OTOH the S6's "HP2" calipers ( a weird, btu excellent Lucas desby grant - Main Forum
I frequently get 1 page then nothing. Or one line, a blank page, and then the rest. Safari is mroe compatible. I like many user features in FF though. Grantby grant - Main Forum
for those of you who were not watching the previous thread, i was having: - some very severe taper wear - some noise - pretty good performance, but not as solid and smooth as i recall Marc gave me some very good pointers that brake dust can raise havoc with the pistons. He was right I did not remove or dis-assemble the front calipers. But I did clean the heck out of the pistons, dust boots andby grant - Main Forum
Dont remind me! Its ont he bench. Need to re-terminate those teensy wires; change the damping fluid, totally re-set-up the cart. Probabyl junk what i have and buy one. No knowing what happened to the one that;s been on there :-) Grantby grant - Main Forum
... that the oil level indicator sending unit is faulty? Or the dipstick reading occular unit is faulty.... Grantby grant - Main Forum
that street tires begin to slide, then recover, then slide, fooling the ABS. And that R compound slicks stick until they let loose, so they don't. While i rarely run R comps, that sounds right from what i've felt and heard. I still dont think it has much to do with pad compound selection. The problem with street pads - on our cars anyway - is that after several closely repeated hard stops theby grant - Main Forum
I think you can install multiple copies in windows. Make sure none are running when you begin the installation. Then, simply use the shortcut for the version (3.x) that you want. Windows installs, with some variation for versions, to c:/program files/application name. For firefox, the user settings (cookies, bookmarks, etc.) are within a folder that is a user folder. Go looking for one with yoby grant - Main Forum
all brakes can clamp tighter than any tire can hold up to without losing traction. Pad selection shoudl have to do with how it handles heat, how progressive it is, and how well it insulates the caliper and fluid from the heat. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Overall i like it. Some things in how the various icons are arranged i don't like as well, but i presume that's familiarity. I am having zero problems. You might have something corrupted Grantby grant - Main Forum
then again, you're hardly using the car you bought! Note, over time BP falls a LOT - depends on which fluid and how much water is absorbed, but 50% is not out of line. Grantby grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
And all batteries should be punched with the in-service date. Grantby grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
I dug in. While the pistons were not "seized", they were also not moving smoothly. So i followed your advice. I guess i never appreciated that brake cleaner is so much more than cosmetic. It clears grit out. I put some old pads in (uniform, 1.5mm pad left, brembo) so they pistons would come all the way out - and after cleaning and basting with brake fluid ( i got a little squeeze bottle and fiby grant - Main Forum
Push the pistons in and out to clean the lip? Maybe even lubricate them with some clean brake fluid? Grantby grant - Main Forum
...i cant see exactly what part of the shift mech it coming from. Is that the shifter ( the stalk and knob) or nearer the tranny? I think the former. If so, i can only think its grease coming off the mech itself. What might be "washing" it down. No motor oil or tranny fluid goes forward to the passenger compartment or further, i don;t think. Brake fluid does, but that's at the outside sill, aby grant - Main Forum
Hi all. Patient: 2004 986 non-S 2.7 MT I've changed my brake pads ( 3x) and rotors (1x) without issues. No noise, normal wear, etc. Use is daily plus autoX (8 days/yr) and track use (about 6-8 days/yr). Parts have always been "OEM replacement" ; various brands. Last fall i did both pads and rotors (3rd job). This was different. Ever since they have squealed badly. Also , they have worn wiby grant - Main Forum
for the 6-sp, a Porsche unit, or the newer Aisin trannies in the 987, i cannot say. Grantby grant - Main Forum
If a fluid is too slippery, it does not provide enough friction for syncros to work. So many fluids include "friction modifiers" (don't ask) to make syncros operate better. Your "hard to shift" symptom might be this. If so, no damage, just refill with factory. I rarely see an advantage to anything but factory gear oil. Its rarely changed, and the Porsche and Audi/VW stuff is very good. Grantby grant - Main Forum
I have them on my Audi S6 and love them. I have M2s on my boxster. They are ok. OTOH they are also 12 years old! I would also suggest Vreedstein SnowTracs Grantby grant - Main Forum
I bought alldata when they offered a "deal". What a crock. Zero info, and hard to navigate. Much looked like (bad) scans of the Bentley. Huge gaps in info. Yuk. Grantby grant - Main Forum
So go ahead. now, if you are asking "is it good enough" the answer is "for what". Any and all are fine for street use. For track use i would use a very high temp fluid and change it every year or more. I use ate super 200. For all street applications, i use Castrol LMA-GT. For street use i PREFER it to the fancy fluids because it is designed to absorb less moisture, and thus deteriorate moreby grant - Main Forum
I assume the swepco only went in at some change interval. Or have you rebuilt enough trannies to have a real sample of filled new with swepco? Grantby grant - Main Forum
most of the "bad press" (and i've been a little bit part of it!) is criticism of their 0w40 oil. Much of that issue is simply that its a 0w40. Its very hard to make a good 0 and 40 weight oil in one, so you either get shear down with use; marginal 40 weight performance, or both. Heck, read the HTHS specs - it passes ACEA A3 only when squinting. But there's a reason for this. M1, as the OEM supplby grant - Main Forum