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I wont go into the traction bit except to say that that we somewhat predictable - bad but predictable. However, hidden (or not hidden) mechanical failure/cracking is potentially much more dangerous and could go UN-noticed. As i said, many companies actually have tech notes or TSBs on this. Does that mean the others, such as my RE71s, are OK? I dont know. Grantby grant - Main Forum
but it amazing how many experts will tell you that racing will result in high dilution from rich conditions. Bo-o-o-gus :-) ( and click and clack would have said)by grant - Main Forum
If so, I never had any visible particles in my oil (cant really tell now), and I don't have the aftermarket IMS-B anymore, nor do i have an oil filter I can (easily) cut open any more :-) PArt of moving to the oiled journal bearing is an adapter that requries a spin-on metal can OF. Which i dont like as well. All gone after the rebuild last winter. I do UOA. Its quite amazing what one learnsby grant - Main Forum
Yoko AD08s through the winter (only as needed, on the track car) and I use my RE-71Rs all year 'round on the daily driver boxster, when i'm too lazy to put on my old snows. No issues. But some tires can develop cracks or structural weakening. So I would check with the manufacturer. If that warning was for those tires, i would not move the car until it gets above 40 deg. Remember what happensby grant - Main Forum
I used to pull apart my filter every or every other change, and look inside. Lots of shiny specs at first met the eye in the folds of the pleating , BTU they almost always turned out to be nothing more than oil bubbles. I never recall seeing particles of metal ,plastic etc. And when i pulled my motor apart the plastic parts were all intact. The aftermarket (LNE) IMS bearing, on the other hand, wby grant - Main Forum
... unless they are warped, and I've never warped a rotor, even with heavy track use, why would you turn them? Typically the pads wear to the rotor. New pads will quickly seat to them too. I avoid removing material - it just hastens wear. Grantby grant - Main Forum
.. but not on the original motor. Bruce (well, Porsche) replaced one motor early, and I got it with the 2nd toast (not an IMS however...) I re-did the suspension (track oriented), put in a junkyard motor that ran, badly, for 4 years and rebuilt that this winter. The balance of the car is original, with maintenance. 2000 986S Grant ps: i think marc is at or near 300kby grant - Main Forum
has a 2-3% difference and works fine. Admittedly that is front to back, which would be far less likely to incite a rotation, but for ABS purposes it is similar. The side to side restriction could be many things, but if it is more stringent than F/R it typically means they are worried about the differential --- and that is consistent with specifying tread depth, not age, pattern or ??? (which i fby grant - Main Forum
1. very small intake leak 2. marginal/bad MAF (defective, IM) I really doubt the leaves or other debris....by grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
a 2mm difference in effective sidewall height, means an effective difference of 2mm in the radius. Doign the math this results in about a 1% difference is circumference for a 255/40-17 tires (my rear OEM size. 986). A differential should be able to handle that. I would interpret their requirement as a % difference in the two treads. so smaller / larger must be >= 0.7. e.g.: 3mm/5mm - 0.6by grant - Main Forum
Many cars sit (which is generally not a good thing) without developing RMS leaks. From what i have read and heard, RMS leaks in general are a function of a crankshaft end journal that is not quite round - a small manufacturing defect. The seal holds the oil until there is too much play (compressed seal) and then begins to leak. I expect yours sits, with the crank in one position, hardens intoby grant - Main Forum
I'm not suggesting you run it either, but the biggest question is "from where"? I agree that it is very possibly from the accessory drive. The good news is that a) none of that is catastrophic if it fails and b) none of that is all that expensive (yes, hundreds, but still.....). But that would not sound like valves tapping which you also say, so its pretty confusing. I hope its minor, Mine makby grant - Main Forum
He knew what the car was. Every owner did, or should. It was driven too aggressively for the conditions (unknown - public roads). No one can expect a car to be retrofitted with stability control - and its equally well known that competition cars either have no stability control, or ones with incredibly high thresholds. GM and Ferrari in fact have such modes. If i recall the facts, the biggestby grant - Main Forum
..its all abotu WHERE the puncture is. There are also "mushroom style" plugs that work nearly as well as patches. Should they fail, you have no more than a slow leak. Grantby grant - Main Forum
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Lubrication is good. It really does not matter how the oil gets on a surface, as long as it does. That oil must be clean - i believe the DOF takes a filtered stream. But honestly, i'd rather have non filtered oil than none at all :-) Jake has some good stuff, but i believe he's involved in branded rebuilt motors that use the IMS retrofit. I can say, with first hand inspection experience, thaby grant - Main Forum
.. deep de-sulfation cycle. I have the model 7002. Its great. I do not leave it connected, but rather connect it periodically. It6s also brought at least one battery back from the dead. When you do store your car, make sure it "sleeps" which, i believe, requires the alarm to arm. That tales the draw to near zero. Grantby grant - Main Forum
a) there needs to be excess pressure or b) a faulty cap. Sounds, somehow, like a). Could it be as simple as a cap that was not put back on properly? Could the leak from the bottom simply be dripping from the top? Now, you mentioned a repair, but did not elaborate. That sounds awfully suspicious. What did they do? Grantby grant - Main Forum
..whether its the tiny bit squirted on your IMS or the majority of it circulating through the motor. In the end it just falls, via gravity mostly, to the sump. A pickup tube routes it to the oil pump and 'round it goes. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Quotephatryd What I'm hearing is exactly the same sound I hear after turning the key to start it but before the motor actually starts. Maybe that's the sound of the engine cranking? John Yes, that is the sound of the engine cranking. Most of us have never heard the starter on its own. It would be a low whine. Just a small motor spinning. Marc's suggestion (fuel pump) is a good one. Could alby grant - Main Forum
Buy it from Amazon or Pelican or somewhere that will ship it to you that's close....if you cannot find a good parts vendor locally. The aftermarket Continental ("Contitech") is in fact the OEM supplier. About $30 Grantby grant - Main Forum
As Boxsterra asks; What do you mean, "did not fully start?". Next, when you say "the normal sound of starter motor"... i'm confused. The "normal" sound is not the starter motor, its a little starter motor and a lot of motor turning but not (yet) starting. If its only your starter, the solenoid is not engaging. I think this is not what you mean. If its the "normal" sound of an entire engine craby grant - Main Forum
In general, maintenance on your car is little different from any other car. These cars are very durable. The good news is that you have new suspension (why, at 75k Km i don't know, they generally go 75-100k miles...) and your mechanic seems to like it. Let's go through a few things. 1. change the oil and filter annually, regardless of mileage. Use A40 approved 0w40 synthetic oil and a filter.by grant - Main Forum
.. written by some guy in FLA :-)by grant - Main Forum
we discussed it here some months back. I have sorta given up. Its not the keys - kinda obvious from BOTH going bad, but i also checked and went through the re-pairing dance. Twice. Mine occurred after the car sat for the winter while i rebuilt, well, nearly everything :-) I can imagine that something was dislodged - e.g.: n antenna wire, in all the work. I dont knwo exactly where it is or howby grant - Main Forum
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As to 0w40 HTHS - they are all marginal - its very tough to achieve A3/B4 and 0W at the same time. I told the story long ago of one (un named) manufacturer watching another try.... People love to find boutique oils ( and everything else) that they think is magic, but as i stated above, there are only a few base oil producers and a few additive producers, and the rest are blenders. Or both. My heby grant - Main Forum