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Happy Thanksgiving!by Laz - Main Forum
Also a sticker with a UPC graphic and the number "4800."by Laz - Main Forum
Unexpectedly huge images, but more legible, if anything. Maybe you can get it/order it from a dealer. My sales guy gave it to me when I took delivery back in 2012. Some very good systemic descriptions, eg:by Laz - Main Forum
Although it might've been Marc W who once said fuel pumps can be damaged if running dry.by Laz - Main Forum
I still have a Clymer 912 shop manual. (Had a '66, my first car.) The wiring diagram looked kinda complex back in '72, and it was likely very similar to a 356 of any year. Getting the motor and transaxle out was simple: a few wires, fuel line, and linkages, and that was it. Had a couple '70s Alfa Spiders, and they were electrically comparable to the 912, but in their Milanese way. I loved the vby Laz - Main Forum
I do notice when I wind out the engine more often, it requires a few ounces at a time. Castrol Edge 5w-40 looks interesting. Somewhat similar numbers to the M1 5w-40, and it has an A3/B4 rating, for what it's worth.by Laz - Main Forum
I leave it to the dealer to put in the right stuff, no matter 0 or 5, but after my 0W-40 top-up quart is done, I'll be looking for the 5Ws. My 13S, now at >88k is beginning to need (more) top ups between changes. Maybe the 5W will mitigate that.by Laz - Main Forum
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With the caveat that I have no expertise, but can conjecture: Whatever you choose, it obviously should be minimally applied. Don't want it getting sucked in and be a dirt attractant in the intakes. Also, a fairly high melt point, and a minimum of volatile elements that could make their way into the intakes/combustion chambers, resolidify and "stick."by Laz - Main Forum
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When I got my 981, the dealer gave me the "Service Information 2013 Technik Introduction," a 176 page spiral-bound book. Although intended to inform the sales people, it's chock full of systemic information. Perhaps there's something similar, (or even this one would be a good, informative start,) for the GT4.by Laz - Main Forum
I'm thinking it's a M96, so my conjecture probably doesn't apply, but; Your symptoms seem similar to ones my 9A1had, and it turned out to be a camshaft solenoid in both instances. The dealer caught an intermittent fault that apparently didn't register in the memory. The fix wasn't cheap, but it was the fix in each case.by Laz - Main Forum
Depending on your browser, you may need to allow cookies in order for the VIN field to accept your number.by Laz - Main Forum
I searched online, but the closest to an answer was somebody saying, "Put an Ohmmeter on it." The rest of that thread and other fora were unfortunate devolutions into uselessness and name calling. With one of my units disconnected from the 120V outlet, I put an meter across the disconnected battery clips, and it was an open circuit. Might there be current, however minuscule, when the clips are atby Laz - Main Forum
Some years ago I was familiarizing myself with the fuse panels and discovered that at least one fuse's assigned slot (per the owner's manual) was empty. Even the fuse cover's molded-in guide was wrong. It's reasonable that there may be running changes to a model's production after its owner's manual is printed, but not so much that the fuse cover guide is "wrong."by Laz - Main Forum
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For my car, the lighting, including the footwells, turn on at unlock and key out of ignition, and door opening; off with door locking and ignition to "on." The Orientation and door handle LEDs seem to go on only with at least the Park lights on, and stay on as long as the outside lights are on. As you know, some of the current draws turn off automatically after so many minutes (or is it a voltaby Laz - Main Forum
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