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Obvious: maybe, Easy: yes - 3 years ago

When solder joints crack, the crack may not even be visible to the naked eye. In those cases, reflowing the solder (basically just melt it and let it reset) is standard procedure for a suspect joint. In the case of the Boxster key, because the range generally sucks, people tend to instinctively mash the key and I have seen several keys where the microswitch is physically dislodged on one side fr

Yes, and also - 3 years ago

a single press may result in multiple "operations" if the connection is intermittent, as I previously theorized

Re: Indeed, X2/1 is what I meant - 3 years ago

n/t

Start Lock Relay - 3 years ago

The purpose of the start lock relay is to ensure that all of the prerequisites to starting the car (ignition, DME, immobilizer) have been met before activating the starter. If it's clicking that probably mean that one of the inputs is flaky. I would bet it's the ignition switch. You can test this by tapping into pin 1 on Connector X1/2 (black) and seeing if the 12v it's supposed to be deliverin

There is such a thing - 3 years ago

I would still check the circuitry on the key board first since it only takes a minute to do. That said, this is from the service manual: Radio transmitter outside lock-in range If the transmitter is operated more than 256 times without reaching the associated receiver (e.g. vehicle outside range or vehicle battery disconnected), the vehicle will not recognise the radio transmitter the next time

That can happen - 3 years ago

if the solder joint between the key microswitch and the circuit board isn't continuous. The key sends an interrupted signal that the car detects as invalid. The first fix attempt should be to inspect and repair the solder joint because it is very quick and easy.

Check for moisture under the seat - 3 years ago

n/t

IMS irrelevant - 3 years ago

The vast majority of prospective buyers aren't on the forums and the IMS costs way more to replace than it adds value.

Your photos aren't publicly accessible - 3 years ago

n/t

Photos look amazing - 3 years ago

What camera are you using these days?

I'm not aware of one - 3 years ago

but I'd be surprised if one didn't exist. Maybe shoot B&M an email?

Alas, no - 3 years ago

Here is a good discussion of the different variations of the Porsche tool and alas, none of them seems to work with B&M The purpose of the tool is to hold the shift lever in the center of the neutral position while you adjust the cables. You can do this without the tool but the tool makes it super simple.

Nice - 3 years ago

I used to work on Lotuses. They're a lot more fun to drive than to fix.

True, but - 3 years ago

I was responding to the assessment from the person who adjusted the shifter that replacing the linkage had to be done by a shop.

Great news but surprised - 3 years ago

Replacing the linkage at the transmission is not hard at all. You unbolt the unit, pop two balls out of sockets, and reverse to install the new unit. Really, quite easy. Here is a picture of the new linkage I installed on my car after about 185k miles

I agree with this sentiment - 3 years ago

Electric cars with good power are _really_ fun to drive. The instant torque gives you great control. The electric Boxster will be fun to drive, I'm sure of it. But obviously you give up some things go get other things. For people with home charging, every day starts with full range so range concerns are only a thing on the rare days where you go long distances.

Haha - 3 years ago

No regerts

DIY - 3 years ago

I would get the $5 Porsche shifter alignment tool and have a go at it yourself. Or if you have any tech gatherings in your area, someone else can do it. I agree with frogster that the shop probably didn't do it right. That said, as the linkage at the transmission wears, it gets sloppy, which means cable adjustment has to be more precise.

You never know with the Tesla - 3 years ago

the car might brake automatically and its "foot"/"eye" coordination is literally lightning fast. That said, Tesla cannot defy physics. They are heavy cars and even with great brakes they don't stop as fast as Porsches.

Pretty good - 3 years ago

Your regimen makes perfect sense under the circumstances. With the battery sitting for long periods of time sulfation (buildup on the plates inhibiting charge) will be accelerated. You can ameliorate this and extend the life of your battery by getting a desulfating battery charger and occasionally using that function when your car is near a power source. Best not to wait until you see symptoms be

Cotton swab isn't enough - 3 years ago

I am talking about removing the circuit board from the M535 box and submerging it in pure isopropyl alcohol. The problem is that when it gets wet it's because it's submerged in water and the water seeps into every nook and cranny of the board, including under the components. When you soak it in alcohol, the alcohol seeps into the same areas and mixes with the water. When you then dry it, the alco

Almost always one (or both) of two things - 3 years ago

Moisture under the seat has damaged the alarm computer Electrical portion of switch is flaky The latter is much cheaper (~$10 for the part and 30 minutes labor, reasonably easy DIY) but in your case it sounds like it probably is the alarm. The old alarm can often be salvaged. Take it apart, soak the circuit board in pure isopropyl alcohol, thoroughly dry it, cross fingers. If that doesn't work

Try this - 3 years ago

I don't know what that guy popped on the left side of the car - 3 years ago

but it wasn't the trunk. The cable is connected directly to the latch. The clunk is the sound of the latch pushing the hood up. When it's already up, as in the linked video, it doesn't make that sound. So he found some cable and it clunked when he pulled it, but it's not the frunk cable.

The plot thickens - 3 years ago

When the engine is replaced, the oil filler tube has to be disconnected. I'm betting they didn't seat it properly and it made its way off in time, perhaps aided by the pressure of the clamp. FWIW mine split after 9 years and 110k miles. I first attempted to patch it but that was a fool's errand.

Did the pipe split? - 3 years ago

I don't understand how the clamp could "slip" off. It is a captive spring clamp.

Yup - 3 years ago

The pipes fit together tightly without the clamp. AFAICT the purpose of the clamp is to keep the "nub" holding the two parts together, not itself as a compression seal. Congrats on getting them apart, not easy. As with all leaks, I suggest you clean the oily areas with oil and continue to drive. This often makes it much easier to track down.

Disagree with diagnosis - 3 years ago

This is likely a problem with the microswitch in the latch, not the regulator itself. When you let go of the handle with the door open, the motor is moving the window back up. Symptoms of a bad regulator are generally bad action or inaction when action is expected, not the reverse. The issue could be displacement of the latch microswitch, problem with wiring to the switch, or the switch actuall

There are two microswitches in the convertible top latch mechanism - 4 years ago

one of them is not functioning consistently. Try putting a little piece of tape on the flap that is pushed by the latch. That is often enough to solve it. Common problem.

To clarify - 4 years ago

the extras I have were the latest ones available that fit in a 1999 and will similarly fit your car. That said, I recommend you start with the additive and take it from there. If you end up doing the tensioners, it's really not difficult but I would always personally lock the cams. It's not difficult at all to do.