Show all posts by user

Yes, that is very helpful - 1 year ago

One of the video comments...

Agreed, really nice - 1 year ago

n/t

Good video - 1 year ago

This guy just made a video where he goes in through the center console. You can clearly see the flaps and their operation. Definitely helpful.

Weird, you can't use loctite? - 1 year ago

n/t

I reconstructed the post - 1 year ago

Extend the range of your Boxster key remote control - 1 year ago

This is a repost of a post I originally made in 2005. Enjoy. --- I managed to extend the range of my 1999 Boxster remote (actually the key head is a Carrera GT key head but that doesn't make any difference) from 15 feet to 62 feet. And it was easy to do. Measuring the range: I opened the driver's door. I did this because when you press the remote button with the driver

My post is on the old board, lost to time - 1 year ago

The basic gist is that the antenna wire is wrapped up with a bunch of other electrical wires so it gets interference, which hampers the range. The basic fix is to pull off the A-pillar trim piece on the driver's side, unwrap the tape around the antenna wire, and pull out a length proportional to the wavelength of the remote (a couple of inches, roughly), then put it back together. It really

Of the top of my head... - 1 year ago

Extend the range of your remote Clean debris from the front radiators Clean the throttle body (suspect you already did that) Lube the top mechanism Clean your engine, especially any areas that have oily residue. Cleaning those areas will make it much easier to later see where the oil is coming from (power steering reservoir, oil tube seals, etc). Check your brake pad and rotor thicknesses D

Gotcha - 1 year ago

I do like Tekton's tools in general. I haven't tried their torque wrench. I use torque wrenches a lot and over time they would all eventually fail in one way or another. I got the PI ones for around $100 apiece.

What's your budget? - 1 year ago

n/t

Precision Instruments - 1 year ago

I have a couple of their torque wrenches and love them. The design is such that you can set the torque and leave it, unlike many of the designs where you're supposed to loosen the spring after usage. I had an electronic torque wrench for a while but the PI ones are better in pretty much every way. They're low profile, very accurate, easy to set, easy to read, and last a long time.

I agree - 1 year ago

Everywhere you turn these days the subject is politics and the virus. It's refreshing to have somewhere to go where the discussion is all about cars and all of the things immediately related to them (especially the people). I have great sympathy for those who have lost loved ones or whose lives have been otherwise negatively impacted by the virus. It's truly a tragedy. Let's let

Next time - 1 year ago

you do a long job from the top, remove the clamshell. It's not hard to do and saves the back. That said, I've done this job on a bunch of cars and it has always been 90% underneath.

Congrats - 1 year ago

I agree that getting the bellows and clamp on straight while removing the clip is the hardest part. It's possible to reach in with one arm and hold the clamp down while pulling the clip off. In that case you have to do it by feel since you can't get your arm in there at a good angle and see at the same time. I should have mentioned this earlier but even when it looks like it's o

Have fun! - 1 year ago

n/t

Re: DTC’s P1117, p1128 and p1130. - 1 year ago

P1117 O2 sensor code, bank 1 - likely caused by burning oil P1128, P1130 O2 sensor codes - enrichment limit - aka "too much oil in the intake" Fix the AOS and reevaluate.

First thing I would try - 1 year ago

Is to reseat the headlight electrical sockets. They are notorious for partly or mostly working when not connected properly. The mounting bracket (on the car) for the plug has play in it so two things you can try are: - lubricate the rubber seals on the electrical plug - pull back the wheel well liner and push forward on the electrical socket (with the headlights in the car)

The retrofit doesn't have wires for the suspension level sensors - 1 year ago

That feature is exclusive to factory installed litronics. Nice thought though.

What are the codes? - 1 year ago

The codes are likely caused by a bunch of unexpected oil going into the combustion chambers, unrelated to the MAF. I maintain that this problem won't cause a MAF malfunction, though it won't fix one either.

Don't worry about the MAF - 1 year ago

The entire oil tube would have to fill with oil before the MAF would be affected. The MAF is suspended in the middle of the pipe from the top. If you remove the intake manifold then it is a good time to replace the 6 rubber seals. Old, flattened ones don't always make a perfect seal when put back.

Generally good to clean the intake - 1 year ago

I thought you were referring to the cross-braces under the car, which are irrelevant to this job. You can remove the intake tubes by loosening all 4 hose clamps and wiggling them off. The intake manifolds are more challenging as the front bolts (near the cabin) are a little tricky to access. It isn't totally essential that you get 100% of the oil out, just generally good because the airfl

Agreed - 1 year ago

I've driven the original Tesla roadster and while the power and instant torque are a blast, the weight really takes a toll on the fun.

You don't have to take off the cross pieces - 1 year ago

You should be able to reach the AOS by taking the right rear wheel off and it's basically right there. Ok, well maybe set in a foot or so.

Yes - 1 year ago

The only thing that can dump oil into the intake is the AOS. So if the intake manifold is coated with oil, that's your culprit. Don't run the car at all until you fix it. Replacement isn't that bad, really.

"think" - 1 year ago

The software for the 737 Max -- and hence the decision to disable the possibility of human intervention -- was written by humans. No computer decided it knew better than humans. The idea with autonomous driving is not that it is infallible, just that it is much less likely to fail than humans. When the driver behind you beeps at you at the very same instant a child runs out into the street in

Easy peasy - 1 year ago

Electric cars have two game-changing advantages over gas-powered cars when it comes to traction. They can both detect and react to slippage extremely quickly (at least thousands of times a second). When the computer has individual control of each wheel and this level of granularity of control, at sane speeds the car can compensate for virtually anything that happens in a way that would be impossi

I am quite familiar with the technology - 1 year ago

The driver was completely inattentive with a system that is not designed to take over for the driver's eyes and ears. If you say that the partially-autonomous vehicle should always do the right thing then I would suggest that contradicts both the stated capabilities of the system and the meaning of the prefix "partially-". The car puts up a big warning screen that says that you must be payin

I read that differently - 1 year ago

The investigation found that this man was playing a video game on his phone while using a partially-autonomous vehicle feature that requires the driver to be watching the road. So I see this as another case of driver error causing a crash.

Can you name any one such case? - 1 year ago

n/t

Haha - 1 year ago

They're already on Facebook/Twitter/Instagram/etc. while they're driving. At least with autonomous cars they won't be endangering everyone around them.