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Second that - 14 years ago

I would definitely go for the ball joint removal tool (as shown in your picture). I have gotten them off with a pickle fork borrowed from a local auto parts shop but it is tough to get it done without damaging the boot. I don't think you will be able to get it off without one of those two tools. They are super stubborn.

Do you have the original motor mount? - 14 years ago

n/t

The phenomenon to which you allude is especially interesting in the case of the Porsche IMS - 14 years ago

but that's a subject for a different thread.

The funny thing is that they are only planning to make 987 of them - 14 years ago

n/t

You can already edit posts forever - 14 years ago

Just press the preview button and you can look at it as long as you want. It's just not fair to others who have read your message for you to change the meaning after it's posted. And if you're not changing the meaning, you don't have to change the content. If you need to clarify, just reply to your own message with a clarification. This is not going to change, sorry.

Replacing a 1999 Boxster engine costs waaaay less than $15k - 14 years ago

It's about $2-3k for an engine tops. Another $2-3k for labor to replace. New top installed ~$1,000. The total cost of all of that ($5-7k) is about the cost of just the options on a new Boxster/Cayman. Having a new car is great but the cost is 10x as much.

I know which group I'm in - 14 years ago

Neither. I'm in the "The sky is falling for some people. There's a very low probability it's you so just drive and enjoy." group.

- 14 years ago

n/t

The failure rate is not constant throughout the engine's life - 14 years ago

The failure rate of the OEM bearing in the first 3 years/30k miles is probably far less than 1 in 10,000. And pretty much all of the existing LN bearings are in that category. So I would be surprised if any had failed. I can appreciate their admission that the longevity of the bearing cannot be determined experimentally in the lab without better equipment than they have. This is exactly why c

Very cool - 14 years ago

I'd like to hear details about that.

Do you agree that in an open-bearing setup - 14 years ago

the bearing is subject to much more contamination?

Year/model? - 14 years ago

n/t

If you knew you were saving the cost of a motor then I totally agree - 14 years ago

I understand your motivation for changing it. It basically comes down to peace of mind. In your case it was an expensive discovery that there was no looming issue. My primary objection is that the LN part is a much higher risk than the OEM part. As the bearing engineer that posts here has stated, engine oil is not suitable for lubricating a bearing. And as I (and others) have stated, even if

Oh, I have - 14 years ago

That's where I keep my spare.

With all due respect - 14 years ago

I appreciate your report. Though it looks to me like you wasted your money. Bearings fail slowly over time and your old one wasn't worn. The LN part has no guarantee and no track record. The manufacturer recommends you regularly pull of the transmission so it would be great to see your LN bearing after a year or so to see how much more wear it has than the Porsche part.

I've never had a water pump go - 14 years ago

My last Porsche had over 175k on it's original pump. This one went 106k before I replaced the engine (for fun - no problem with the old one) including the water pump.

The Spyder looks good with a red top - 14 years ago

n/t

Not all you need - 14 years ago

You also need to have it activated.

It doesn't actually eliminate speculation about the hard top - 14 years ago

The Miata, for example is offered with both. I would be surprised if the Boxster was ever offered with only a retractable hard top as it is heavy.

The options are tied to a user login - 14 years ago

So, yes they are intended to only work when you are logged in.

You say "less filling". I say "tastes great". - 14 years ago

The fluid level drops super slowly. You would have to be not paying attention for a long time to let the reservoir run dry. I just check after each wheel (or clutch bleed) and I never get even close to there being a problem.

The clunk happens when the car isn't supported by the suspension?!? - 14 years ago

Nothing should move in that case. Normally I would suggest you check the sway bar bushings (make sure they are in place and torqued to the proper spec) but that is part of the suspension.

No 918 though - 14 years ago

n/t

Fixed (finally) - 14 years ago

n/t

Was your car in the shop at the same time as dghii's? - 14 years ago

n/t

Browser caching can do some funny things - 14 years ago

Please report if the problem recurs.

that's an argument for replacing it - 14 years ago

With the OEM part. At 106k miles I was already in there so I checked the IMS bearing and it had zero play and no sign of any problems. Pedro's and Marc's lasted over 200k.

Get a Sollisto - 14 years ago

It allows you to connect aux in to the CDR-210.

I'm happy to be able to point at our archives for that one - 14 years ago

Added to the list - 14 years ago

Thanks for the feedback, as always.