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Message: Look, if your real question is "what do i do to my motor now that its out"
Changed By: grant
Change Date: May 09, 2014 07:57AM
Look, if your real question is "what do i do to my motor not now that its out"
Change Date: May 09, 2014 07:57AM
Look, if your real question is "what do i do to my motor not now that its out"
I'm sure we can help, if you want our collective advice.
First, while your motor died within days, most dont. So relax.
Next, there's a short list of stuff that are no-brainers:
1. AoS
2. Clean or updated timing chain tensioners
3. Plug tubes
4. water pump
5. motor mount
6. Direct Oil feed; at minimum check IMS-B, replace with cheap replacement if there is any wear ($100)
7. clutch kit
8. service everything - plugs, etc.
Depending on how far apart you get it:
1. check lifters, i guess, if you want
2. timing chain guides
3. check condition/play of chains (big work if one's gone)
4. truth is, at this level its all about inspection. Look at Marc - 282k miles. Pedro - 200k. bruce - 150kish (then boom)
Now, will you track the car? New issues:
1. deep sump/baffled pan to prevent starvation. we really need a dry sump.
When back together there are simple rules than 97% of the population, including the so called experts, violate:
1. drive easy when motor is cold
2. change oil regularly - don't allow it to get diluted and acid
3. Use an oil grade that matches your climate. In the UK that's on the thinner side of the range
4. avoid lots of short trips, or, if you can't plan for a regular long, hard trip that gets the motor >> 212F for an extended period. if you have a low temp T-stat you are extra screwed here. but you have to choose who to listen to,m or do as i do, trust the facts.
And.... dont fix what ain't broke. You can easily introduce new problems. My 1-year old water pump, from the original blown motor, was vastly worse than the 14 year old water pump on the replacement motor. I went with the 14 year old one, rather than the 1 year old one or a new one. (its not THAT hard to get at)
Grant
First, while your motor died within days, most dont. So relax.
Next, there's a short list of stuff that are no-brainers:
1. AoS
2. Clean or updated timing chain tensioners
3. Plug tubes
4. water pump
5. motor mount
6. Direct Oil feed; at minimum check IMS-B, replace with cheap replacement if there is any wear ($100)
7. clutch kit
8. service everything - plugs, etc.
Depending on how far apart you get it:
1. check lifters, i guess, if you want
2. timing chain guides
3. check condition/play of chains (big work if one's gone)
4. truth is, at this level its all about inspection. Look at Marc - 282k miles. Pedro - 200k. bruce - 150kish (then boom)
Now, will you track the car? New issues:
1. deep sump/baffled pan to prevent starvation. we really need a dry sump.
When back together there are simple rules than 97% of the population, including the so called experts, violate:
1. drive easy when motor is cold
2. change oil regularly - don't allow it to get diluted and acid
3. Use an oil grade that matches your climate. In the UK that's on the thinner side of the range
4. avoid lots of short trips, or, if you can't plan for a regular long, hard trip that gets the motor >> 212F for an extended period. if you have a low temp T-stat you are extra screwed here. but you have to choose who to listen to,m or do as i do, trust the facts.
And.... dont fix what ain't broke. You can easily introduce new problems. My 1-year old water pump, from the original blown motor, was vastly worse than the 14 year old water pump on the replacement motor. I went with the 14 year old one, rather than the 1 year old one or a new one. (its not THAT hard to get at)
Grant
Original Message
Author: grantDate: May 09, 2014 07:56AM
Look, if your real question is "what do i do to my motor not that its out"
I'm sure we can help, if you want our collective advice.
First, while your motor died within days, most dont. So relax.
Next, there's a short list of stuff that are no-brainers:
1. AoS
2. Clean or updated timing chain tensioners
3. Plug tubes
4. water pump
5. motor mount
6. Direct Oil feed; at minimum check IMS-B, replace with cheap replacement if there is any wear ($100)
7. clutch kit
8. service everything - plugs, etc.
Depending on how far apart you get it:
1. check lifters, i guess, if you want
2. timing chain guides
3. check condition/play of chains (big work if one's gone)
4. truth is, at this level its all about inspection. Look at Marc - 282k miles. Pedro - 200k. bruce - 150kish (then boom)
Now, will you track the car? New issues:
1. deep sump/baffled pan to prevent starvation. we really need a dry sump.
When back together there are simple rules than 97% of the population, including the so called experts, violate:
1. drive easy when motor is cold
2. change oil regularly - don't allow it to get diluted and acid
3. Use an oil grade that matches your climate. In the UK that's on the thinner side of the range
4. avoid lots of short trips, or, if you can't plan for a regular long, hard trip that gets the motor >> 212F for an extended period. if you have a low temp T-stat you are extra screwed here. but you have to choose who to listen to,m or do as i do, trust the facts.
And.... dont fix what ain't broke. You can easily introduce new problems. My 1-year old water pump, from the original blown motor, was vastly worse than the 14 year old water pump on the replacement motor. I went with the 14 year old one, rather than the 1 year old one or a new one. (its not THAT hard to get at)
Grant
First, while your motor died within days, most dont. So relax.
Next, there's a short list of stuff that are no-brainers:
1. AoS
2. Clean or updated timing chain tensioners
3. Plug tubes
4. water pump
5. motor mount
6. Direct Oil feed; at minimum check IMS-B, replace with cheap replacement if there is any wear ($100)
7. clutch kit
8. service everything - plugs, etc.
Depending on how far apart you get it:
1. check lifters, i guess, if you want
2. timing chain guides
3. check condition/play of chains (big work if one's gone)
4. truth is, at this level its all about inspection. Look at Marc - 282k miles. Pedro - 200k. bruce - 150kish (then boom)
Now, will you track the car? New issues:
1. deep sump/baffled pan to prevent starvation. we really need a dry sump.
When back together there are simple rules than 97% of the population, including the so called experts, violate:
1. drive easy when motor is cold
2. change oil regularly - don't allow it to get diluted and acid
3. Use an oil grade that matches your climate. In the UK that's on the thinner side of the range
4. avoid lots of short trips, or, if you can't plan for a regular long, hard trip that gets the motor >> 212F for an extended period. if you have a low temp T-stat you are extra screwed here. but you have to choose who to listen to,m or do as i do, trust the facts.
And.... dont fix what ain't broke. You can easily introduce new problems. My 1-year old water pump, from the original blown motor, was vastly worse than the 14 year old water pump on the replacement motor. I went with the 14 year old one, rather than the 1 year old one or a new one. (its not THAT hard to get at)
Grant