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Message: For clarity the "nonsense" I refer to is not the calibration method, but rather the ambiguous...
Changed By: grant
Change Date: December 28, 2014 06:01PM
For clarity the "nonsense" I refer to is not the calibration method, but rather the ambiguous...
Change Date: December 28, 2014 06:01PM
For clarity the "nonsense" I refer to is not the calibration method, but rather the ambiguous...
take away from:
[i]I did reset the window limits and calibrate the E-Gas just out of habit. When I took the old battery back to get credit for it the tech offered to reset the sensor warning with the computer it if bothered me having it on although he told me it would go away with driving and was surprised when I told him there was no warning. I attributed the lack of a warning to the fact I guess I was quick enough getting the old battery out and the new battery in the car's electrical system didn't loose residual power.
I actually don't like this explanation as the car was without 12V power for around a minute and while I didn't specifically put any electrical load on the car I had the front trunk lid open which would have the trunk light on and which would or should have drained any residual electrical power from the car's electrical system including the steering sensor, E-gas and the window regulators, unless there is some kind of isolation present that I'm unaware of, isolation in that while the various circuits are powered by the same electrical source: battery or alternator when the engine is running; they are not directly connected. I actually like this explanation though I'm not sure there exists this unbeknownst to me isolation between the car's various electrical circuits.[/i]
Note, by the way that the warning would have gone away. I don't have all the answers either, but i suspect this is for the very reason i ignore it all: there is a continuous calibration in effect. I've designed a few systems like this where you know the basic limits but not how each component is calibrated. In generally one would typically begin with a best guess based on design intent, and then monitor the signal. If, for example, the signal shows a pedal that goes beyond the end (WOT) position, we can guess that the voltage is a bit high and should be scaled down. Similarly if it never reaches zero... etc.
I have never experienced EPC issues in this car ( although i have had mechanical interference at the actual butterfly cause "implausibl throttle angle" errors on my Audis. Together these say : 1) leaving it alone shoudl work well, and 2) typical in-field systems do continue to monitor the signals, compare them to the map/guess, and either correct the calibration or generate an error.
So i ignore it and let the system do its job.
Its nice to know the calibration method should i need it. Someday I may try it Back-to-back and see if anything is perceptible.
Grant
[i]I did reset the window limits and calibrate the E-Gas just out of habit. When I took the old battery back to get credit for it the tech offered to reset the sensor warning with the computer it if bothered me having it on although he told me it would go away with driving and was surprised when I told him there was no warning. I attributed the lack of a warning to the fact I guess I was quick enough getting the old battery out and the new battery in the car's electrical system didn't loose residual power.
I actually don't like this explanation as the car was without 12V power for around a minute and while I didn't specifically put any electrical load on the car I had the front trunk lid open which would have the trunk light on and which would or should have drained any residual electrical power from the car's electrical system including the steering sensor, E-gas and the window regulators, unless there is some kind of isolation present that I'm unaware of, isolation in that while the various circuits are powered by the same electrical source: battery or alternator when the engine is running; they are not directly connected. I actually like this explanation though I'm not sure there exists this unbeknownst to me isolation between the car's various electrical circuits.[/i]
Note, by the way that the warning would have gone away. I don't have all the answers either, but i suspect this is for the very reason i ignore it all: there is a continuous calibration in effect. I've designed a few systems like this where you know the basic limits but not how each component is calibrated. In generally one would typically begin with a best guess based on design intent, and then monitor the signal. If, for example, the signal shows a pedal that goes beyond the end (WOT) position, we can guess that the voltage is a bit high and should be scaled down. Similarly if it never reaches zero... etc.
I have never experienced EPC issues in this car ( although i have had mechanical interference at the actual butterfly cause "implausibl throttle angle" errors on my Audis. Together these say : 1) leaving it alone shoudl work well, and 2) typical in-field systems do continue to monitor the signals, compare them to the map/guess, and either correct the calibration or generate an error.
So i ignore it and let the system do its job.
Its nice to know the calibration method should i need it. Someday I may try it Back-to-back and see if anything is perceptible.
Grant
Original Message
Author: grantDate: December 28, 2014 06:00PM
For clarity the "nonsense" I refer to is not the calibration method, but rather the ambiguous...
take away from:
[i]I did reset the window limits and calibrate the E-Gas just out of habit. When I took the old battery back to get credit for it the tech offered to reset the sensor warning with the computer it if bothered me having it on although he told me it would go away with driving and was surprised when I told him there was no warning. I attributed the lack of a warning to the fact I guess I was quick enough getting the old battery out and the new battery in the car's electrical system didn't loose residual power.
I actually don't like this explanation as the car was without 12V power for around a minute and while I didn't specifically put any electrical load on the car I had the front trunk lid open which would have the trunk light on and which would or should have drained any residual electrical power from the car's electrical system including the steering sensor, E-gas and the window regulators, unless there is some kind of isolation present that I'm unaware of, isolation in that while the various circuits are powered by the same electrical source: battery or alternator when the engine is running; they are not directly connected. I actually like this explanation though I'm not sure there exists this unbeknownst to me isolation between the car's various electrical circuits.[/i]
Note, by the way that the warning would have gone away. I don't have all the answers either, but i suspect this is for the very reason i ignore it all: there is a continuous calibration in effect. I've designed a few systems like this where you know the basic limits but not how each component is calibrated. In generally one would typically begin with a best guess based on design intent, and then monitor the signal. If, for example, the signal shows a pedal that goes beyond the end (WOT) position, we can guess that the voltage is a bit high and should be scaled down. Similarly if it never reaches zero... etc.
I have never experienced EPC issues in this car ( although i have had mechanical interference at the actual butterfly cause "implausibl throttle angle" errors on my Audis. Together these say : 1) leaving it alone shoudl work well, and 2) typical in-field systems do continue to monitor the signals, compare them to the map/guess, and either correct the calibration or generate an error.
So i ignore it and let the system do its job.
Grant
[i]I did reset the window limits and calibrate the E-Gas just out of habit. When I took the old battery back to get credit for it the tech offered to reset the sensor warning with the computer it if bothered me having it on although he told me it would go away with driving and was surprised when I told him there was no warning. I attributed the lack of a warning to the fact I guess I was quick enough getting the old battery out and the new battery in the car's electrical system didn't loose residual power.
I actually don't like this explanation as the car was without 12V power for around a minute and while I didn't specifically put any electrical load on the car I had the front trunk lid open which would have the trunk light on and which would or should have drained any residual electrical power from the car's electrical system including the steering sensor, E-gas and the window regulators, unless there is some kind of isolation present that I'm unaware of, isolation in that while the various circuits are powered by the same electrical source: battery or alternator when the engine is running; they are not directly connected. I actually like this explanation though I'm not sure there exists this unbeknownst to me isolation between the car's various electrical circuits.[/i]
Note, by the way that the warning would have gone away. I don't have all the answers either, but i suspect this is for the very reason i ignore it all: there is a continuous calibration in effect. I've designed a few systems like this where you know the basic limits but not how each component is calibrated. In generally one would typically begin with a best guess based on design intent, and then monitor the signal. If, for example, the signal shows a pedal that goes beyond the end (WOT) position, we can guess that the voltage is a bit high and should be scaled down. Similarly if it never reaches zero... etc.
I have never experienced EPC issues in this car ( although i have had mechanical interference at the actual butterfly cause "implausibl throttle angle" errors on my Audis. Together these say : 1) leaving it alone shoudl work well, and 2) typical in-field systems do continue to monitor the signals, compare them to the map/guess, and either correct the calibration or generate an error.
So i ignore it and let the system do its job.
Grant