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Message: **UPDATE**
Changed By: Dwass
Change Date: May 19, 2011 11:49PM
**UPDATE**
Change Date: May 19, 2011 11:49PM
**UPDATE**
I've been looking for a good independent in Chicago... Most seem to be over $125/hr. I did find someone who is about $95/hr which seems a "ok", unless anyone knows of someone else???
Anyway, we're fearing the worst that this point regarding the clutch and flywheel... since I'm slipping in second (if I put my foot down, not just relaxed), the flywheel may need to be replaced.
I've been looking for a good independent in Chicago... Most seem to be over $125/hr. I did find someone who is about $95/hr which seems "ok", unless anyone knows or can recommend someone else???
Anyway, we're fearing the worst at that this point regarding the clutch and flywheel... since I'm slipping in second (if I put my foot down, no slipping if relaxed throttle acceleration), the flywheel may need to be replaced.
OK.... so....
If I do the clutch, I would obviously have the flywheel done if needed, but what else should I do? Besides RMS, we all agree to that, right?
[b]IMS[/b]: [b]IM[/b]confused. There's the IMS bearing and then there's the IMS seal? (huh?)... 'BI've been digging around and read that there's no Porsche replacement part since it's supposed to last the life of the engine (referring the the bearing here). Is this true??? SO confused after reading things now... Replace that? (IMS _______?)
[b]Flywheel[/b]:EXPENSIVE.... Is this the part number: 986-114-012-05? If I type that in google, I get "LUK" flywheel. If that's correct and I could just get the LUK one, I'd save about $250. Is LUK just the manufacture name? Thoughts?
[b]Brakes[/b]: I'll do it, it can't be that bad. I don't have to bleed the brakes, as far as I know, just pads and rotor replace. My rear rotors are real bad, especially the inside face and the pads are less than 2mm from what I can tell. Front pads are at about 2mm and rotors are too "lippy" on the edge (about or over 1mm). I'm nervous about jack stands... I have read a few write ups and everyone seems to have "their" way. If someone thinks a specific article/link is good for a guy like me, do share please. Hockey puck method seems to be a favorite...
[b]Oil[/b]: I'll do it... soonish. Thanks for the tips on the oil types... I didn't anticipate such an interesting discussion!
[b]AOS[/b]: I cannot find the DIY article on it. ANYWHERE. I have seen some stuff on a few other sites, I don't remember seeing that you have to lift the car and remove a wheel. Seems easy enough to access from underneath the car without removing the wheel. Can't I just use ramps? In general though, I don't even know if my AOS is bad... I DO KNOW that I have oil around the crank case. Logic says, why not. I figure it's a few hours of work and I'll save $300+ on that. I like projects anyway and the satisfaction that goes with the completion.
Now, you're me. You know you need a new clutch. You're slipping in second. They guy who's doing the work quotes parts prices higher than I could get them, he said I could bring my own (Porsche) parts. I am not in the best financial shape right now, but I need to keep my car and myself safe.
-Do you do the flywheel? How can you really tell if it's bad. Does it only go bad if the clutch is low enough?
[b]Oil[/b]: I'll do it... soonish. Thanks for the tips on the oil types... I didn't anticipate such an interesting discussion! I will use the ramps for that, is that ok? I know someone here, maybe Pedro? said that it's better if the whole car is lifted so that oil doesn't remain. I guess oil would "slosh" to the side and residual oil would remain if that's the case. I suppose I may need jack stands for this too. I would do it with the brakes is if this the case (also AOS, see next).
[b]AOS[/b]: I cannot find the DIY article I saw a few months ago on it. ANYWHERE. I have seen some stuff on a few other sites, I don't remember seeing that you have to lift the car and remove a wheel. Seems easy enough to access from underneath the car without removing the wheel. Can't I just use ramps? In general though, I don't even know if my AOS is bad... I DO KNOW that I have oil around the crank case. Logic says, why not replace the aged part. I figure it's a few hours of work and I'll save $300+ on that + possible catastrophic failure. I like projects anyway and the satisfaction that goes with the completion.
Now, you're me. You know you need a new clutch. You're slipping in second. They guy who's doing the work quotes parts prices higher than I could get them, he said I could bring my own (Porsche) parts. I am not in the best financial shape right now, but I need to keep my car and myself safe. I must be wise and realistic.
-Do I do (order) the flywheel without looking at it first? How can you really tell if it's bad. Does it only go bad [u]ONLY[/u] if the clutch is low enough?
-How many hours should it take to do the RMS and "IMS seal".... guy added an additional 3 hours labor for that. I thought it was RIGHT there when the trans is off. Maybe I'm wrong.
-I -Assume I have the indy do th the clutch, (flywheel?), RMS, (IMS?). What else would be wise even if it's not "bad" yet to replace. The car is driven year round in Chicago... extreme cold and extreme heat. Parked outside. 11 years old. 52,000 miles. Things wear down, things go bad. If I can save labor charges down the road and get another 10+ years out of this job, what should I add/do?
Thanks for the help.... this is overwhelming. I just don't want to mess up.
Anyway, we're fearing the worst that this point regarding the clutch and flywheel... since I'm slipping in second (if I put my foot down, not just relaxed), the flywheel may need to be replaced.
I've been looking for a good independent in Chicago... Most seem to be over $125/hr. I did find someone who is about $95/hr which seems "ok", unless anyone knows or can recommend someone else???
Anyway, we're fearing the worst at that this point regarding the clutch and flywheel... since I'm slipping in second (if I put my foot down, no slipping if relaxed throttle acceleration), the flywheel may need to be replaced.
OK.... so....
If I do the clutch, I would obviously have the flywheel done if needed, but what else should I do? Besides RMS, we all agree to that, right?
[b]IMS[/b]: [b]IM[/b]confused. There's the IMS bearing and then there's the IMS seal? (huh?)... 'BI've been digging around and read that there's no Porsche replacement part since it's supposed to last the life of the engine (referring the the bearing here). Is this true??? SO confused after reading things now... Replace that? (IMS _______?)
[b]Flywheel[/b]:EXPENSIVE.... Is this the part number: 986-114-012-05? If I type that in google, I get "LUK" flywheel. If that's correct and I could just get the LUK one, I'd save about $250. Is LUK just the manufacture name? Thoughts?
[b]Brakes[/b]: I'll do it, it can't be that bad. I don't have to bleed the brakes, as far as I know, just pads and rotor replace. My rear rotors are real bad, especially the inside face and the pads are less than 2mm from what I can tell. Front pads are at about 2mm and rotors are too "lippy" on the edge (about or over 1mm). I'm nervous about jack stands... I have read a few write ups and everyone seems to have "their" way. If someone thinks a specific article/link is good for a guy like me, do share please. Hockey puck method seems to be a favorite...
[b]Oil[/b]: I'll do it... soonish. Thanks for the tips on the oil types... I didn't anticipate such an interesting discussion!
[b]AOS[/b]: I cannot find the DIY article on it. ANYWHERE. I have seen some stuff on a few other sites, I don't remember seeing that you have to lift the car and remove a wheel. Seems easy enough to access from underneath the car without removing the wheel. Can't I just use ramps? In general though, I don't even know if my AOS is bad... I DO KNOW that I have oil around the crank case. Logic says, why not. I figure it's a few hours of work and I'll save $300+ on that. I like projects anyway and the satisfaction that goes with the completion.
Now, you're me. You know you need a new clutch. You're slipping in second. They guy who's doing the work quotes parts prices higher than I could get them, he said I could bring my own (Porsche) parts. I am not in the best financial shape right now, but I need to keep my car and myself safe.
-Do you do the flywheel? How can you really tell if it's bad. Does it only go bad if the clutch is low enough?
[b]Oil[/b]: I'll do it... soonish. Thanks for the tips on the oil types... I didn't anticipate such an interesting discussion! I will use the ramps for that, is that ok? I know someone here, maybe Pedro? said that it's better if the whole car is lifted so that oil doesn't remain. I guess oil would "slosh" to the side and residual oil would remain if that's the case. I suppose I may need jack stands for this too. I would do it with the brakes is if this the case (also AOS, see next).
[b]AOS[/b]: I cannot find the DIY article I saw a few months ago on it. ANYWHERE. I have seen some stuff on a few other sites, I don't remember seeing that you have to lift the car and remove a wheel. Seems easy enough to access from underneath the car without removing the wheel. Can't I just use ramps? In general though, I don't even know if my AOS is bad... I DO KNOW that I have oil around the crank case. Logic says, why not replace the aged part. I figure it's a few hours of work and I'll save $300+ on that + possible catastrophic failure. I like projects anyway and the satisfaction that goes with the completion.
Now, you're me. You know you need a new clutch. You're slipping in second. They guy who's doing the work quotes parts prices higher than I could get them, he said I could bring my own (Porsche) parts. I am not in the best financial shape right now, but I need to keep my car and myself safe. I must be wise and realistic.
-Do I do (order) the flywheel without looking at it first? How can you really tell if it's bad. Does it only go bad [u]ONLY[/u] if the clutch is low enough?
-How many hours should it take to do the RMS and "IMS seal".... guy added an additional 3 hours labor for that. I thought it was RIGHT there when the trans is off. Maybe I'm wrong.
-I -Assume I have the indy do th the clutch, (flywheel?), RMS, (IMS?). What else would be wise even if it's not "bad" yet to replace. The car is driven year round in Chicago... extreme cold and extreme heat. Parked outside. 11 years old. 52,000 miles. Things wear down, things go bad. If I can save labor charges down the road and get another 10+ years out of this job, what should I add/do?
Thanks for the help.... this is overwhelming. I just don't want to mess up.
Original Message
Author: DwassDate: May 19, 2011 11:40PM
**UPDATE**
I've been looking for a good independent in Chicago... Most seem to be over $125/hr. I did find someone who is about $95/hr which seems a "ok", unless anyone knows of someone else???
Anyway, we're fearing the worst that this point regarding the clutch and flywheel... since I'm slipping in second (if I put my foot down, not just relaxed), the flywheel may need to be replaced.
OK.... so....
If I do the clutch, I would obviously have the flywheel done if needed, but what else should I do? Besides RMS, we all agree to that, right?
[b]IMS[/b]: [b]IM[/b]confused. There's the IMS bearing and then there's the IMS seal? (huh?)... 'Been digging around and read that there's no Porsche replacement part since it's supposed to last the life of the engine (referring the the bearing here). SO confused after reading things now... Replace that? (IMS _______?)
[b]Flywheel[/b]:EXPENSIVE.... Is this the part number: 986-114-012-05? If I type that in google, I get "LUK" flywheel. If that's correct and I could just get the LUK one, I'd save about $250. Is LUK just the manufacture name? Thoughts?
[b]Brakes[/b]: I'll do it, it can't be that bad. I don't have to bleed the brakes, as far as I know, just pads and rotor replace. My rear rotors are real bad, especially the inside face and the pads are less than 2mm from what I can tell. Front pads are at about 2mm and rotors are too "lippy" on the edge (about or over 1mm). I'm nervous about jack stands... I have read a few write ups and everyone seems to have "their" way. If someone thinks a specific article/link is good for a guy like me, do share please. Hockey puck method seems to be a favorite...
[b]Oil[/b]: I'll do it... soonish. Thanks for the tips on the oil types... I didn't anticipate such an interesting discussion!
[b]AOS[/b]: I cannot find the DIY article on it. ANYWHERE. I have seen some stuff on a few other sites, I don't remember seeing that you have to lift the car and remove a wheel. Seems easy enough to access from underneath the car without removing the wheel. Can't I just use ramps? In general though, I don't even know if my AOS is bad... I DO KNOW that I have oil around the crank case. Logic says, why not. I figure it's a few hours of work and I'll save $300+ on that. I like projects anyway and the satisfaction that goes with the completion.
Now, you're me. You know you need a new clutch. You're slipping in second. They guy who's doing the work quotes parts prices higher than I could get them, he said I could bring my own (Porsche) parts. I am not in the best financial shape right now, but I need to keep my car and myself safe.
-Do you do the flywheel? How can you really tell if it's bad. Does it only go bad if the clutch is low enough?
-How many hours should it take to do the RMS and "IMS seal".... guy added an additional 3 hours labor for that. I thought it was RIGHT there when the trans is off. Maybe I'm wrong.
-I do th clutch, (flywheel?), RMS, (IMS?). What else would be wise even if it's not "bad" yet to replace. The car is driven year round in Chicago... extreme cold and extreme heat. Parked outside. 11 years old. 52,000 miles. Things wear down, things go bad. If I can save labor charges down the road and get another 10+ years out of this job, what should I add/do?
Thanks for the help.... this is overwhelming. I just don't want to mess up.
Anyway, we're fearing the worst that this point regarding the clutch and flywheel... since I'm slipping in second (if I put my foot down, not just relaxed), the flywheel may need to be replaced.
OK.... so....
If I do the clutch, I would obviously have the flywheel done if needed, but what else should I do? Besides RMS, we all agree to that, right?
[b]IMS[/b]: [b]IM[/b]confused. There's the IMS bearing and then there's the IMS seal? (huh?)... 'Been digging around and read that there's no Porsche replacement part since it's supposed to last the life of the engine (referring the the bearing here). SO confused after reading things now... Replace that? (IMS _______?)
[b]Flywheel[/b]:EXPENSIVE.... Is this the part number: 986-114-012-05? If I type that in google, I get "LUK" flywheel. If that's correct and I could just get the LUK one, I'd save about $250. Is LUK just the manufacture name? Thoughts?
[b]Brakes[/b]: I'll do it, it can't be that bad. I don't have to bleed the brakes, as far as I know, just pads and rotor replace. My rear rotors are real bad, especially the inside face and the pads are less than 2mm from what I can tell. Front pads are at about 2mm and rotors are too "lippy" on the edge (about or over 1mm). I'm nervous about jack stands... I have read a few write ups and everyone seems to have "their" way. If someone thinks a specific article/link is good for a guy like me, do share please. Hockey puck method seems to be a favorite...
[b]Oil[/b]: I'll do it... soonish. Thanks for the tips on the oil types... I didn't anticipate such an interesting discussion!
[b]AOS[/b]: I cannot find the DIY article on it. ANYWHERE. I have seen some stuff on a few other sites, I don't remember seeing that you have to lift the car and remove a wheel. Seems easy enough to access from underneath the car without removing the wheel. Can't I just use ramps? In general though, I don't even know if my AOS is bad... I DO KNOW that I have oil around the crank case. Logic says, why not. I figure it's a few hours of work and I'll save $300+ on that. I like projects anyway and the satisfaction that goes with the completion.
Now, you're me. You know you need a new clutch. You're slipping in second. They guy who's doing the work quotes parts prices higher than I could get them, he said I could bring my own (Porsche) parts. I am not in the best financial shape right now, but I need to keep my car and myself safe.
-Do you do the flywheel? How can you really tell if it's bad. Does it only go bad if the clutch is low enough?
-How many hours should it take to do the RMS and "IMS seal".... guy added an additional 3 hours labor for that. I thought it was RIGHT there when the trans is off. Maybe I'm wrong.
-I do th clutch, (flywheel?), RMS, (IMS?). What else would be wise even if it's not "bad" yet to replace. The car is driven year round in Chicago... extreme cold and extreme heat. Parked outside. 11 years old. 52,000 miles. Things wear down, things go bad. If I can save labor charges down the road and get another 10+ years out of this job, what should I add/do?
Thanks for the help.... this is overwhelming. I just don't want to mess up.