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Message: Re: You can go ...
Changed By: MauriceonLongIsland
Change Date: May 25, 2011 08:47AM
Re: You can go ...
Change Date: May 25, 2011 08:47AM
Re: You can go ...
"... I [i]I went ahead and ordered 2 new cables (left and right), I figure it would be wise to do both now. I also ordered 3 new gray plastic push-rod bearing sleeves (I had already broken 1), each was about $1.50, but it's better safe than sorry. I also ordered 7 of those metal clips at $1.50ish each. I know they use those in some other parts of the car (brake pedal) and the top alone uses 6. Maybe I can get the other clips off without a problem, but I'd hate to delay the repair if I didn't have enough.
enough.[/i]
1. [i]I used Suncoast to order all the parts. I'm not sure how they compare to Sunset, but I didn't have time to compare. Do you have an opinion? All-in-all, the top parts set me back $80. I also ordered the long metal tube-like thing with the red plastic end that comes in the Porsche tool-kit (my car doesn't have one). It was only $7 and I read that it's used for this type of repair (?).[/i]
Suncoast and Sunset are both excellent sources for parts, in my experience.
2. [i]I saw that there is some sort of tool that the recommend for removing ball-joints. I remember reading in another forum about it. It's like a flat-head screwdriver with a curve in the end and a split fork dividing it. I'm not sure how to use it or if it is useful for my situation so I wondered what your opinion was. I'd hate to break more parts in just trying to take things apart. I know that the plastic push-rod ends are not sold separately and an entire push-rod must be purchased.[/i]
The factory tool can be used, but those screwdriver-handled pry-bars are ideal. Harbor Freight sells them cheap, in a set of four. The cat's claw tool is available at Home Depot and works well also as it has that split fork at the end and is very tapered. The plastic ball cups are available from a guy in the Netherlands. If you end up needing them, PM me and I'll give you his info.
3. [i]When I removed the frayed/broken, cable from the motor, it had nothing, but twisted strands and oil on the end. I imagine the long squared terminal piece must be in the motor. I hope my motor is ok. I haven't read anywhere about motor failure because of a broken cable[/i].
The electric motors are pretty bullet-proof. The only thing that ever goes wrong with them is that they develop dead spots on the armature, but it's rare.
4. [i]Do you have a link or some pictures of how to remove the transmissions? I know they have these plastic caps that hold the chamber foam down, but with those removed, it still doesn't want to move. I don't want to rip anything. It doesn't seem that I can replace the cable without removing the transmission.[/i]
Go to the link that Pedro provided, and to the DIY entitled "Installing a '03-'04 Top and Frame on a '97-'02 Boxster". Take a look at the Part II PDF, start at page 19 for instructions on how to remove the transmissions.
(We need to know what year your car is to know whether your have the "A Version" set-up, which I believe you do because of your smooth-sided cables).
5. [i]Regarding the 2 cables, I'm not really sure I know what you mean about the A type and B type without seeing a comparative image. My cables are flat (patternless) black sheathed with woven wire rope inside. They terminal end that was still intact, has about an inch of elongated square compressed tip. I saw that they ones for sale online have a patterned sheath, somewhat carbon fiber looking. Did you indicate that there might be a way to just pull the woven rope and slide the new one in? I can imagine it being tricky to get the square end to line up with it's corresponding hole.[/i]
The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths. There's a procedure for removing the A Version cables from the transmissions which was written up by "Tool Pants" on Renntech.org about 5 years ago, but I couldn't find the link right now.
[i]Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]
Regards, Maurice.
enough.[/i]
1. [i]I used Suncoast to order all the parts. I'm not sure how they compare to Sunset, but I didn't have time to compare. Do you have an opinion? All-in-all, the top parts set me back $80. I also ordered the long metal tube-like thing with the red plastic end that comes in the Porsche tool-kit (my car doesn't have one). It was only $7 and I read that it's used for this type of repair (?).[/i]
Suncoast and Sunset are both excellent sources for parts, in my experience.
2. [i]I saw that there is some sort of tool that the recommend for removing ball-joints. I remember reading in another forum about it. It's like a flat-head screwdriver with a curve in the end and a split fork dividing it. I'm not sure how to use it or if it is useful for my situation so I wondered what your opinion was. I'd hate to break more parts in just trying to take things apart. I know that the plastic push-rod ends are not sold separately and an entire push-rod must be purchased.[/i]
The factory tool can be used, but those screwdriver-handled pry-bars are ideal. Harbor Freight sells them cheap, in a set of four. The cat's claw tool is available at Home Depot and works well also as it has that split fork at the end and is very tapered. The plastic ball cups are available from a guy in the Netherlands. If you end up needing them, PM me and I'll give you his info.
3. [i]When I removed the frayed/broken, cable from the motor, it had nothing, but twisted strands and oil on the end. I imagine the long squared terminal piece must be in the motor. I hope my motor is ok. I haven't read anywhere about motor failure because of a broken cable[/i].
The electric motors are pretty bullet-proof. The only thing that ever goes wrong with them is that they develop dead spots on the armature, but it's rare.
4. [i]Do you have a link or some pictures of how to remove the transmissions? I know they have these plastic caps that hold the chamber foam down, but with those removed, it still doesn't want to move. I don't want to rip anything. It doesn't seem that I can replace the cable without removing the transmission.[/i]
Go to the link that Pedro provided, and to the DIY entitled "Installing a '03-'04 Top and Frame on a '97-'02 Boxster". Take a look at the Part II PDF, start at page 19 for instructions on how to remove the transmissions.
(We need to know what year your car is to know whether your have the "A Version" set-up, which I believe you do because of your smooth-sided cables).
5. [i]Regarding the 2 cables, I'm not really sure I know what you mean about the A type and B type without seeing a comparative image. My cables are flat (patternless) black sheathed with woven wire rope inside. They terminal end that was still intact, has about an inch of elongated square compressed tip. I saw that they ones for sale online have a patterned sheath, somewhat carbon fiber looking. Did you indicate that there might be a way to just pull the woven rope and slide the new one in? I can imagine it being tricky to get the square end to line up with it's corresponding hole.[/i]
The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths. There's a procedure for removing the A Version cables from the transmissions which was written up by "Tool Pants" on Renntech.org about 5 years ago, but I couldn't find the link right now.
[i]Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]
Regards, Maurice.
Changed By: MauriceonLongIsland
Change Date: May 25, 2011 08:46AM
Re: You can go ...
Change Date: May 25, 2011 08:46AM
Re: You can go ...
"... [i]I I went ahead and ordered 2 new cables (left and right), I figure it would be wise to do both now. I also ordered 3 new gray plastic push-rod bearing sleeves (I had already broken 1), each was about $1.50, but it's better safe than sorry. I also ordered 7 of those metal clips at $1.50ish each. I know they use those in some other parts of the car (brake pedal) and the top alone uses 6. Maybe I can get the other clips off without a problem, but I'd hate to delay the repair if I didn't have enough.
1. [i]I used Suncoast to order all the parts. I'm not sure how they compare to Sunset, but I didn't have time to compare. Do you have an opinion? All-in-all, the top parts set me back $80. I also ordered the long metal tube-like thing with the red plastic end that comes in the Porsche tool-kit (my car doesn't have one). It was only $7 and I read that it's used for this type of repair (?).[/i]
Suncoast and Sunset are both excellent sources for parts, in my experience.
2. [i]I saw that there is some sort of tool that the recommend for removing ball-joints. I remember reading in another forum about it. It's like a flat-head screwdriver with a curve in the end and a split fork dividing it. I'm not sure how to use it or if it is useful for my situation so I wondered what your opinion was. I'd hate to break more parts in just trying to take things apart. I know that the plastic push-rod ends are not sold separately and an entire push-rod must be purchased.[/i]
The factory tool can be used, but those screwdriver-handled pry-bars are ideal. Harbor Freight sells them cheap, in a set of four. The cat's claw tool is available at Home Depot and works well also as it has that split fork at the end and is very tapered.
The plastic ball cups are available from a guy in the Netherlands. If you end up needing them, PM me and I'll give you his info.
3. [i]When I removed the frayed/broken, cable from the motor, it had nothing, but twisted strands and oil on the end. I imagine the long squared terminal piece must be in the motor. I hope my motor is ok. I haven't read anywhere about motor failure because of a broken cable[/i].
The electric motors are pretty bullet-proof. The only thing that ever goes wrong with them is that they develop dead spots on the armature, but it's rare.
4. [i]Do you have a link or some pictures of how to remove the transmissions? I know they have these plastic caps that hold the chamber foam down, but with those removed, it still doesn't want to move. I don't want to rip anything. It doesn't seem that I can replace the cable without removing the transmission.[/i]
Go to the link that Pedro provided, and to the DIY entitled "Installing a '03-'04 Top and Frame on a '97-'02 Boxster". Take a look at the Part II PDF, start at page 19 for instructions on how to remove the transmissions.
(We need to know what year your car is to know whether your have the "A Version" set-up, which I believe you do because of your smooth-sided cables).
5. [i]Regarding the 2 cables, I'm not really sure I know what you mean about the A type and B type without seeing a comparative image. My cables are flat (patternless) black sheathed with woven wire rope inside. They terminal end that was still intact, has about an inch of elongated square compressed tip. I saw that they ones for sale online have a patterned sheath, somewhat carbon fiber looking. Did you indicate that there might be a way to just pull the woven rope and slide the new one in? I can imagine it being tricky to get the square end to line up with it's corresponding hole.[/i]
The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths.
Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths. There's a procedure for removing the A Version cables from the transmissions which was written up by "Tool Pants" on Renntech.org about 5 years ago, but I couldn't find the link right now.
[i]Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]
Regards, Maurice.
1. [i]I used Suncoast to order all the parts. I'm not sure how they compare to Sunset, but I didn't have time to compare. Do you have an opinion? All-in-all, the top parts set me back $80. I also ordered the long metal tube-like thing with the red plastic end that comes in the Porsche tool-kit (my car doesn't have one). It was only $7 and I read that it's used for this type of repair (?).[/i]
Suncoast and Sunset are both excellent sources for parts, in my experience.
2. [i]I saw that there is some sort of tool that the recommend for removing ball-joints. I remember reading in another forum about it. It's like a flat-head screwdriver with a curve in the end and a split fork dividing it. I'm not sure how to use it or if it is useful for my situation so I wondered what your opinion was. I'd hate to break more parts in just trying to take things apart. I know that the plastic push-rod ends are not sold separately and an entire push-rod must be purchased.[/i]
The factory tool can be used, but those screwdriver-handled pry-bars are ideal. Harbor Freight sells them cheap, in a set of four. The cat's claw tool is available at Home Depot and works well also as it has that split fork at the end and is very tapered.
The plastic ball cups are available from a guy in the Netherlands. If you end up needing them, PM me and I'll give you his info.
3. [i]When I removed the frayed/broken, cable from the motor, it had nothing, but twisted strands and oil on the end. I imagine the long squared terminal piece must be in the motor. I hope my motor is ok. I haven't read anywhere about motor failure because of a broken cable[/i].
The electric motors are pretty bullet-proof. The only thing that ever goes wrong with them is that they develop dead spots on the armature, but it's rare.
4. [i]Do you have a link or some pictures of how to remove the transmissions? I know they have these plastic caps that hold the chamber foam down, but with those removed, it still doesn't want to move. I don't want to rip anything. It doesn't seem that I can replace the cable without removing the transmission.[/i]
Go to the link that Pedro provided, and to the DIY entitled "Installing a '03-'04 Top and Frame on a '97-'02 Boxster". Take a look at the Part II PDF, start at page 19 for instructions on how to remove the transmissions.
(We need to know what year your car is to know whether your have the "A Version" set-up, which I believe you do because of your smooth-sided cables).
5. [i]Regarding the 2 cables, I'm not really sure I know what you mean about the A type and B type without seeing a comparative image. My cables are flat (patternless) black sheathed with woven wire rope inside. They terminal end that was still intact, has about an inch of elongated square compressed tip. I saw that they ones for sale online have a patterned sheath, somewhat carbon fiber looking. Did you indicate that there might be a way to just pull the woven rope and slide the new one in? I can imagine it being tricky to get the square end to line up with it's corresponding hole.[/i]
The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths.
Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths. There's a procedure for removing the A Version cables from the transmissions which was written up by "Tool Pants" on Renntech.org about 5 years ago, but I couldn't find the link right now.
[i]Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]
Regards, Maurice.
Original Message
Author: MauriceonLongIslandDate: May 25, 2011 08:40AM
Re: You can go ...
"... [i]I went ahead and ordered 2 new cables (left and right), I figure it would be wise to do both now. I also ordered 3 new gray plastic push-rod bearing sleeves (I had already broken 1), each was about $1.50, but it's better safe than sorry. I also ordered 7 of those metal clips at $1.50ish each. I know they use those in some other parts of the car (brake pedal) and the top alone uses 6. Maybe I can get the other clips off without a problem, but I'd hate to delay the repair if I didn't have enough.
1. [i]I used Suncoast to order all the parts. I'm not sure how they compare to Sunset, but I didn't have time to compare. Do you have an opinion? All-in-all, the top parts set me back $80. I also ordered the long metal tube-like thing with the red plastic end that comes in the Porsche tool-kit (my car doesn't have one). It was only $7 and I read that it's used for this type of repair (?).[/i]
Suncoast and Sunset are both excellent sources for parts, in my experience.
2. [i]I saw that there is some sort of tool that the recommend for removing ball-joints. I remember reading in another forum about it. It's like a flat-head screwdriver with a curve in the end and a split fork dividing it. I'm not sure how to use it or if it is useful for my situation so I wondered what your opinion was. I'd hate to break more parts in just trying to take things apart. I know that the plastic push-rod ends are not sold separately and an entire push-rod must be purchased.[/i]
The factory tool can be used, but those screwdriver-handled pry-bars are ideal. Harbor Freight sells them cheap, in a set of four. The cat's claw tool is available at Home Depot and works well also as it has that split fork at the end and is very tapered.
3. [i]When I removed the frayed/broken, cable from the motor, it had nothing, but twisted strands and oil on the end. I imagine the long squared terminal piece must be in the motor. I hope my motor is ok. I haven't read anywhere about motor failure because of a broken cable[/i].
The electric motors are pretty bullet-proof. The only thing that ever goes wrong with them is that they develop dead spots on the armature, but it's rare.
4. [i]Do you have a link or some pictures of how to remove the transmissions? I know they have these plastic caps that hold the chamber foam down, but with those removed, it still doesn't want to move. I don't want to rip anything. It doesn't seem that I can replace the cable without removing the transmission.[/i]
Go to the link that Pedro provided, and to the DIY entitled "Installing a '03-'04 Top and Frame on a '97-'02 Boxster". Take a look at the Part II PDF, start at page 19 for instructions on how to remove the transmissions.
(We need to know what year your car is to know whether your have the "A Version" set-up, which I believe you do because of your smooth-sided cables).
5. [i]Regarding the 2 cables, I'm not really sure I know what you mean about the A type and B type without seeing a comparative image. My cables are flat (patternless) black sheathed with woven wire rope inside. They terminal end that was still intact, has about an inch of elongated square compressed tip. I saw that they ones for sale online have a patterned sheath, somewhat carbon fiber looking. Did you indicate that there might be a way to just pull the woven rope and slide the new one in? I can imagine it being tricky to get the square end to line up with it's corresponding hole.[/i]
The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths.
Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]
1. [i]I used Suncoast to order all the parts. I'm not sure how they compare to Sunset, but I didn't have time to compare. Do you have an opinion? All-in-all, the top parts set me back $80. I also ordered the long metal tube-like thing with the red plastic end that comes in the Porsche tool-kit (my car doesn't have one). It was only $7 and I read that it's used for this type of repair (?).[/i]
Suncoast and Sunset are both excellent sources for parts, in my experience.
2. [i]I saw that there is some sort of tool that the recommend for removing ball-joints. I remember reading in another forum about it. It's like a flat-head screwdriver with a curve in the end and a split fork dividing it. I'm not sure how to use it or if it is useful for my situation so I wondered what your opinion was. I'd hate to break more parts in just trying to take things apart. I know that the plastic push-rod ends are not sold separately and an entire push-rod must be purchased.[/i]
The factory tool can be used, but those screwdriver-handled pry-bars are ideal. Harbor Freight sells them cheap, in a set of four. The cat's claw tool is available at Home Depot and works well also as it has that split fork at the end and is very tapered.
3. [i]When I removed the frayed/broken, cable from the motor, it had nothing, but twisted strands and oil on the end. I imagine the long squared terminal piece must be in the motor. I hope my motor is ok. I haven't read anywhere about motor failure because of a broken cable[/i].
The electric motors are pretty bullet-proof. The only thing that ever goes wrong with them is that they develop dead spots on the armature, but it's rare.
4. [i]Do you have a link or some pictures of how to remove the transmissions? I know they have these plastic caps that hold the chamber foam down, but with those removed, it still doesn't want to move. I don't want to rip anything. It doesn't seem that I can replace the cable without removing the transmission.[/i]
Go to the link that Pedro provided, and to the DIY entitled "Installing a '03-'04 Top and Frame on a '97-'02 Boxster". Take a look at the Part II PDF, start at page 19 for instructions on how to remove the transmissions.
(We need to know what year your car is to know whether your have the "A Version" set-up, which I believe you do because of your smooth-sided cables).
5. [i]Regarding the 2 cables, I'm not really sure I know what you mean about the A type and B type without seeing a comparative image. My cables are flat (patternless) black sheathed with woven wire rope inside. They terminal end that was still intact, has about an inch of elongated square compressed tip. I saw that they ones for sale online have a patterned sheath, somewhat carbon fiber looking. Did you indicate that there might be a way to just pull the woven rope and slide the new one in? I can imagine it being tricky to get the square end to line up with it's corresponding hole.[/i]
The first photo on page 17 of the Part II PDF shows a good clear photo of a smooth-sided cable. From your description, I'm reasonably sure that this is what you have. Those are more prone to stretching (the outer sheath stretches, effectively causing the inner speedometer-type cable to "retract" inside the sheath, which then causes the end to not be driven by the electric motor's output flange). You normally cannot pull the inner cable out of an A-version transmission, only on a B-version, cross-hatched ("looks like carbon fiber" in your description) outer sheaths.
Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to your input on what I've discussed above.[/i]