Questions re: CVs / driveshafts on 986S

I'm about to pull my entire supension apart (2000S, 6-sp). At the same time i want to do at minimum the left outer CV boot which looks old and is beginning to show dry-rot cracks in the bellows. Maybe inner too, not sure.

1. if i need to only do the outer, is it possible and advisable to leave the drive-shaft connected to the tranny flange and simply tap the outer CV off the half-shaft?

2. Do the inners fail as regularly ad the outers? More? Less? If i'll have to do it soon, it might as well be now. on my other cars, the inners go forever.

3. Any random advice?

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

My two cents....the boot kits are cheap and the job overall is a bit of a knuckle-buster at times so if I would do inner and outer regardless. Getting the half shafts off of the tranny is relatively easy once you get a good position for your wrench and extension. Also, I would not want to do the boot replacement with the shafts on the car. I made a clamping jig by screwing some scrap wood to a sawhorse. They are much easier if not moving around. I think I read that the inners operate at a more severe angle on an S so probably aren't long for this world anyway. Good luck.

.. not having to take them out, and not having to torque those 6 stoopid nuts, which i hear often work themselves loose and must be re-torqued.

I have not done this job since mid-80s VW/Audi machinery.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

... the right tools and the job is not that hard.
the reason people have problems with the axle to transaxle bolts is because they tighten them with an allen wrench.
You cannot get the proper torque that way.
If you have the right hex tip and several 8" extensions you can tighten them from the wheelwell at the correct torque.
If you're replacing CVJ boots, remove the half axles and replace them both.
Tip: Stock up on paper towels
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

It's not that bad with a good socket set and extensions. Hit the bolts with some sort of spray cleaner before you start because they will probably be filthy, which makes it harder to get a good grip with the hex head. Also, if you don't have a set of snap ring pliers, buy them now. I ended up making a shopping trip for them in the middle of the job. Trying to improvise using something else with all of that grease everywhere is impossible.

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

All of my other cars used triple-square. I have all the above, just wondering

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

The grease is a mess. Have a fresh roll of shop towels handy.

1. thee clamps are different from the ones in days of yore --- cut them? With diagonals?

2. in the past the joints came off of each end independently,and were held in place with circlips. As i understand everything comes off the inner side (transmission side)? Correct?

3. And are there circlips holding them in place? No mention in pedro's write-up....

Thanks, your input saves me a lot of inspection and head scratching....

Grant (now off on a trip and back Thursday)

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2013 01:33PM by grant. (view changes)

Quote
grant
1. thee clamps are different from the ones in days of yore --- cut them? With diagonals?
Yes

2. in the past the joints came off of each end independently,and were held in place with circlips. As i understand everything comes off the inner side (transmission side)? Correct?
Only the inside (transmission side) CVJ is removable with a circlip. The outside (wheel side) is pressed in place and not removable.

3. And are there circlips holding them in place? No mention in pedro's write-up....
The writeup says: "Remove the C-Clip (Snap Ring) from the end of the half-axle using the special pliers". It also shows several photos.
[pedrosgarage.com] [pedrosgarage.com]
Here's the article, just in case: [pedrosgarage.com]

Thanks, your input saves me a lot of inspection and head scratching....
You're welcome

Grant (now off on a trip and back Thursday)

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

wear and tear so even though only one may be showing signs of needing immediate attention all are probably relatively close to needing replacement.

Are you going to clean, inspect and repack (if the inspection turns up no reason to replace) the bearings?

When at least one boot on my 02 Boxster finally split I had this done.

1. replace both boots
2. assume that if there are no sign of wear (noise, clicks) and the boots are intact, all is well
3. Stuff extra fresh grease into them, but do not clean out the old - just add more
4. repalce the clamps
5. put back and torque to the spec, if i can find it If not it seems to be around 70 lb-ft from removal

thanks for the reminders...

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com