Removing strut from the hub.... question

The factory repair manual says to remove the brake calipers, wires, disconnect the hand-brake, and take the strut and hub out as a unit. Since i have one driveshaft out and both control arms out anyway, this is reasonable.

but.....

I know that very few pros do this. They somehow take the strut out with the hub (and parking brake cable and driveshaft?) in place.

Any BTDT on what the key steps are?

If you think taking the hub out is easiest, the main question i have is "any tips ont he parking brake cable?" seems to be a PITA.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

Things are easier if you remove the caliper + brake disc, simply to reduce the amount of weight hanging from the strut & wheel carrier assembly as you wrestle with it.

The caliper can be "stowed" out of the way on the diagonal brace bar and the parking brake cable is not an issue when doing that. You do not have to disconnect the parking brake cable.

...that you agree that i can get it out of the hub (wheel carrier) while the carrier remains in the car. Correct?

I guess the driveshaft needs to come out for it to swing sufficiently?

And the parking brake cable will still allow it to swing?

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

I forget exactly which order you do it in, but I think you first undo the axle nut and back out the half axle, along with the control arm & trailing arm & drop link etc. (whatever else attaches to the wheel carrier), then you undo the 3 nuts for the shock top mount (under the clamshell), and that allows you to remove the whole shock + wheel carrier as a single unit, while leaving the half axle still fully attached to the transmission. Might need to loosen the shock top first to get enough swivel play.

1. one or the other end of the driveshaft must be out
2. the p-brake cable can stay in

I'm there.

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

The Alfa workshop manual said pretty much the whole engine had to come apsrt to change the rings. I did it by taking off the head and pulling the cylinder sleeves off the pistons while they were still attached to the con rods.

can i get the strut out with the brake cable and drive shaft attached?

Both? One? the other?

If so, how?

I can experiement, but that may take as long as simply removing everything......

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

does a ring job, especially without taking out the motor.

I did a ring job once. on a B&S.
Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

when I changed the rings on my 912, did the additional step of taking the pistons off the con rods. To get them back on, I heated them in the kitchen oven, put them in line with rod ends and slipped in the wrist pins. I had miked the pistons and cylinders, made an "xy" ("pc" actually) table to find the best combination, and installed the fortunately interchangeable cylinders with minimal clearances. The motor thereafter consumed only one quart of Castrol 20-50 every 900 miles.