need new clutch?

Hi all,

Lately my 99's base boxster clutch is acting up. Every time I changed gears (did not feel smooth anymore) and released the clutch, it jerked the car more than it used to. Is it time for new clutch? I had the transmission oil drain/refill about 2 years ago.

Thanks,
Tony

Quote
boxster99
Hi all,

Lately my 99's base boxster clutch is acting up. Every time I changed gears (did not feel smooth anymore) and released the clutch, it jerked the car more than it used to. Is it time for new clutch? I had the transmission oil drain/refill about 2 years ago.

Thanks,
Tony

done recently I'd try this before throwing a new clutch into the car.

After the clutch fluid flush/bleed, does the clutch slip? With everything warmed up in 4th gear around 3K RPMs floor, and I mean floor, the gas pedal. Keep it floored as long as you can and of course be 100% safe. If engine revs climb while the vehicle speed doesn't increase in sync that's clutch slippage and a new clutch is (should be) in the car's immediate future. If the clutch slips do not repeat the test. It just abuses the flywheel.

After the fluid flush/bleed, even if the clutch does not slip, if the clutch grabs on moving the car from a stop, that can be a worn clutch. My info is the clutch starts to grab when the disc wears enough the rivets make contact with the flywheel/pressure plate surfaces. (BTW, on a related note for my 996 the dimension from the friction disc surface to the flange side of the rivet is 1.7mm new. This is only 0.066". About a 1/16th of an inch. That's all the disc material one gets...Wow. Oh, when the car was in for an RMS leak a few weeks ago I measured this dimension and it was still at 1.7mm. The disc had experienced no measurable wear in over 110K miles of use. Double Wow!)

Anyhow, while we are at it, a clunk or thunk can be a bad dual mass flywheel. If a new clutch is needed the tech will check the dual mass flywheel and advise you if it needs replacement.

That sounds, to me, more like a clutch that is not disengaging properly. In some ways the opposite of a worn clutch.

Does it still hold in high gear under full throttle? (test of wear and clamping)

Where is the engagement point? Has it moved? (test of linkage (hydraulic) and potentially wear)

Has your clutch been bled? How much use?

The first thing i would do is bleed it. Next is look at the slave cyl.

but first, answer the above.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

I have not bleed the clutch for 2 years about the same time that I changed the trans. oil.

Gear changes from 2nd to 3rd was the worse, did not fell smooth at all even the clutch was all the way in.

When I release the clutch I always try to match engine speed, around 3K+ RPM but the car still jerking. My other half keep laughing at me like I was some amateur just know how to drive manual :-)
I am not expert but I have the car for more than 10 years, may be I am not that amateur, am I?

Will try to bleed it and see if it helps.

I was looking for a reason to tell the other half for justification of a LN IMS upgrade :-)))) Just kidding!

Thanks for all the suggestions! This board is great!

My is 99 base with 36K miles.

Tony

How many miles on the car? If more than 40 - 50K, have you ever changed the front engine mount? I believe the 2 - 3 shift can get very difficult if the engine mount is shot.

How do you check if engine mount is shot? My car has 36K miles on it.
I have a mid-rise lift.

Thanks,
Tony

but at around 3100 rpm.

Or, have a mechanic check it - put car on lift, pry motor around or remove bottom covers and look

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

Here's the link.

[pedrosgarage.com]