Ignition switch problem

Some weeks back, I posted about a problem with my key/ignition switch.

After driving the car, I pull the key and (most times) there a a tubler which falls with an audible click/clunk. Immediately after it the radio turns off and you a re able to reinsert the key.

Lately, the tumbler has taken more and more time to click/clunk. I am waiting to exit the car and the radio is still playing. I cannot re-insert the key. If I slam the door that frequently causes the tumbler to fall. It seems to be worse in colder weather, but that may just be timing.

At Pedro's suggestion, I replaced the electric part of the switch. It was a relatively inexpensive job, although a bit awkward. That did not solve the problem.

So now I am looking at plan B. Ideas?

issues I was told that often enough when just the electrical portion was replaced the car would be back and the entire assembly had to he replaced.

If you want to try a fix I'm thinking perhaps some lock lube might help. You want something that goes on liquid but dries to leave a dry lubricant film residue.

2009 C2S.

Similarly, pulling out the key did not engage the thunk and the wheel would not lock. In addition, some electrical systems stayed on. The ignition switch is a small item and not the big mechanical pieces in earlier cars. Apparently, it merely interfaces with the computer which then does all the magic such as starting. I will find out this week if it worked.

By the way, my mechanic said any Porsche key will turn the switch as it is now a software key that determines if the car will start or not. The tumbler cuts on the key are to operate only the door.



Peace
Bruce in Philly



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2014 09:24PM by Bruce In Philly (2000 S Boxster, now '09 C2S). (view changes)

The ignition assembly in many of the early wasserboxers is weak.
Two things generally happen:
1.- The electrical portion of the switch cracks and expands and makes key removal or steering wheel lock difficult if not impossible.
2.- The mechanical portion (pistol) starts acting up with basically the same issues.
In the beginning Porsche sold both individually.
Eventually they offered an improved assembly and stopped selling the first, which you can still find individually as a VW/Audi part.
It's better to replace the complete assembly but I generally recommend doing the electrical portion because its just a few dollars and its quite easy to do.
The complete assembly is almost $200 IIRC and is much more involved labor-wise.
Lubrication will not work either.
The clunking sound is not the tumblers, its a spring-loaded pin that actually locks the steering column.
BTW if you have to replace the pistol you transfer your tumblers and your immobilizer pill into the new mech side.
You do not need a new key as a few have been told.
Happy Porsche'ing
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

So this may now become a more significant problem.

Are there instructions to replace the "pistol" somewhere? At this point, the spring pin is more of a nuisance than anything else. I suspect eventually it will become an actual problem.

That said, I am going to wait for warmer weather to deal with this.

This is a MUCH more significant job.

It also looks like I may have to buy the upgraded part with the electrical part already installed.

Is that correct?

Pelican estimates 4 hours to complete the job. Is that a real number?

I do not see any instuctions about transferring the immobilizer pill. Is that in the key/tumbler area which is pulled with the paperclip?

Looking at the instructions, I seem to recall somebody trying this at TSBL a few years back. As I remember it did not go very well. There were several surprises. Too bad I don't remember what they were.

I generally enjoy working on the car, but I am not looking forward to this.....

Four hours is about right, but its not terribly difficult.
At least you're comfortably seated in the driver's seat while you're doing the job.
The "pistol" has an upgrade electrical switch installed.
I misspoke. You don't transfer the immo pill but you have to install the immo sensor to the new pistol.
The immo pill is in your key.
The hardest part is working the paperclip into the tumblers.
Happy Boxstering
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

I would double-check that you installed the electrical portion correctly. Chances are that the problem is in fact the lock cylinder but it's worth checking.

I've replaced the "gun" portion and it's not that bad. IIRC I helped someone with that at BRBS and it worked out just fine. You just need to take your time and not try to rush it.

Thanks - I will double check. But there are no electrical gremlins, it is just the clunk sound being significantly delayed.

in an attempt to avoid checking?

No.

That is why I said I will double check.

Then again, right now the car is buried under snow, so it will not be soon that I double check - or perform the repair.

Given the alternative, however, I probably would have preferred to do the job once @ $150, rather than spending the $50 (including shipping) for the electrical part, which might turn out to be useless if I do have to replace the pistol.

replacing the switch was a friggin nuisance, but obviously not techically challenging. The other job looks a whole lat more comfortable eve if it is more time consuming.

The part is $6.42 at AutoHausAz.

The expensive German parts are no better. In my small sample (<10) they were worse. :-)

So yea, $10 is a good number

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

... are made anywhere and everywhere.
I've seen a bunch made in Spain (for Seat) and well as another group made in Hungary.
They're not German anymore.
The one thing Porsche really sucks at is making plastic.
Happy Porsche'ing
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting" ... Steve McQueen as Michael Delaney in "LeMans"

"If you wait, all that happens is that you get older"... Mario Andretti

"Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose" ... Ayrton Senna

But we don't know the source of internet parts.

yes - $50.

I picked it up at the local VW dealer. That was the cost including shipping which had to be paid in advance.

If'n I got rooked - well - I suppose I have come to expect it from dealers. I saw cheaper on the net, but that much disparity gives me concerns all by itslef.

[www.pelicanparts.com]