Clutch Slave Cylinder DIY problem – Help please. |  |  |
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I have noticed brake fluid loss (warning light and topped off twice), but haven’t seen any drips, and the clutch pedal is occasionally sticking half way back on the return, requiring me to pull it back with my toe. I replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder and bled the clutch, but the sticky pedal still occurred. Yesterday, I removed the slave and noticed leaking fluid, so that appears to be the problem. I ordered and installed a new slave cylinder, with the pedal at the floor, using my Motive bleeder, I bled until no more bubbles, tightened the bleeder tip, pulled the pedal up and gave a few pumps. I released pressure on the Motive, but when I went to start the car, the pedal would not go the last inch or so to engage the clutch/starter sensor. When I pushed harder, the pedal went to the floor and I heard a “pop” and fluid leaking at the tranny. I removed the slave and found the guts in pieces. (see below)
I read that not aligning the slave plunger with the clutch fork can cause this catastrophic failure, so today a bought a new slave, installed it as straight into the hole as possible with the hydro line disconnected and the bleeder valve open. I tightened the mounting bolt, re attached the fluid line, and closed the bleeder valve. With the pedal on the floor, I pumped the Motive up to 22 psi, and bled the valve until no more bubbles. I pulled the pedal up and gave it a few pumps.
I removed the Motive, but the pedal WILL NOT extend the last inch to the floor to engage the started sensor. I don’t want to force it and blow the new slave. What am I doing wrong?
Here are a few shots of the carnage from yesterday’s attempt.
I read that not aligning the slave plunger with the clutch fork can cause this catastrophic failure, so today a bought a new slave, installed it as straight into the hole as possible with the hydro line disconnected and the bleeder valve open. I tightened the mounting bolt, re attached the fluid line, and closed the bleeder valve. With the pedal on the floor, I pumped the Motive up to 22 psi, and bled the valve until no more bubbles. I pulled the pedal up and gave it a few pumps.
I removed the Motive, but the pedal WILL NOT extend the last inch to the floor to engage the started sensor. I don’t want to force it and blow the new slave. What am I doing wrong?
Here are a few shots of the carnage from yesterday’s attempt.
Thanks Grant, I'm scratching my head too. It seems like a straight forward remove and replace. The only caveats I've seen are, "Don't press the clutch if the slave is connected, but not mounted" and "Make sure it is inserted correctly so the plunger tip is correctly contacting the fork".
I removed the slave and got my cell cam in position to show the mounting hole and clutch lever (fork). (Below) The indentation in the fork ensures the plunger tip really has nowhere to go but into the divot. I tried to insert my finger to see if I could depress the lever, but the contortion required to get my finger in, eliminates any leverage I have to depress the lever. I don't know if a human finger should be able to depress it. Everything appears to be where it should be, I just don't know it the fork is somehow frozen.
I'm going to re-install the slave and if I can't get the pedal to the floor this time, I suppose a flat bed trip is my next option.
Any thoughts from the brain trust are welcome!
Clutch slave cylinder mounting hole - top left side of the transaxle, showing the clutch fork.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2015 02:20PM by BoxsterBob - San Carlos. (view changes)
I removed the slave and got my cell cam in position to show the mounting hole and clutch lever (fork). (Below) The indentation in the fork ensures the plunger tip really has nowhere to go but into the divot. I tried to insert my finger to see if I could depress the lever, but the contortion required to get my finger in, eliminates any leverage I have to depress the lever. I don't know if a human finger should be able to depress it. Everything appears to be where it should be, I just don't know it the fork is somehow frozen.
I'm going to re-install the slave and if I can't get the pedal to the floor this time, I suppose a flat bed trip is my next option.
Any thoughts from the brain trust are welcome!
Clutch slave cylinder mounting hole - top left side of the transaxle, showing the clutch fork.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2015 02:20PM by BoxsterBob - San Carlos. (view changes)
I added a dab of lube to the fork indent and the plunger tip and reinstalled the slave... again, connected the fluid line and bled successfully with the pedal at the floor. When I lift the pedal and pump a few times, the pedal will not hit the floor, it stops about 1 inch from the firewall. It feels like the fork is not depressing. Since the clutch pedal will not hit the floor, the sensor will not let me start the car. I did start the car when the cylinder was removed and the pedal was on the floor before reinstalling, but that made no difference.
Unless the phase of the moon has any impact, I guess my next step is flatbed to my mechanic. Perhaps this is God's way of telling me to replace my 140k mile clutch and install a new IMS and DOF, turning my $100 DIY project into a $3,000 upgrade. That's A LOT of lemonade!
Unless the phase of the moon has any impact, I guess my next step is flatbed to my mechanic. Perhaps this is God's way of telling me to replace my 140k mile clutch and install a new IMS and DOF, turning my $100 DIY project into a $3,000 upgrade. That's A LOT of lemonade!
Don't know if this helps anything.
When I replaced my slave cylinder a few years back, I had a real hard time getting the slave cylinder back into position. I could not get enough leverage to push the clutch fork back so that I could install the attachment bolts. I finally made a wood jig like block that gave a bit more leverage. I was working with it on and off for days. I believe I had the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor and used a wood stick to keep it in place, lodged against the seat.
Are you getting the clutch fork pushed off the clutch pressure plate?
I won't change that out again. I will let the professionals do it.
Good luck!
When I replaced my slave cylinder a few years back, I had a real hard time getting the slave cylinder back into position. I could not get enough leverage to push the clutch fork back so that I could install the attachment bolts. I finally made a wood jig like block that gave a bit more leverage. I was working with it on and off for days. I believe I had the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor and used a wood stick to keep it in place, lodged against the seat.
Are you getting the clutch fork pushed off the clutch pressure plate?
I won't change that out again. I will let the professionals do it.
Good luck!
| Clutch Slave resolution... sort of BoxsterBob - San Carlos - 7 years ago |
Hey Tony, it's been a while since we talked. Are you still selling houses?
I have no problem getting the slave in place and the bolt tightened, the first time was tricky, but after the 4th time, I could do it without looking.
Steve over on 986Forum.com suggested I try manual bleeding as opposed to using the Motive to see if I got different results.
Yesterday, I had my wife depress the clutch while I opened the bleeder. I did see a few bubbles. Once the pedal hit the floor, I closed the valve, had her pull the pedal back to the normal position and repeated this about a dozen times. No more bubbles were present.
The clutch pedal continues to stop just short of the floor and the car won't start due to the sensor not triggering. I put the wheel back on, removed the jack stands and rolled down the ramp supporting the passenger side.
My driveway has a slight slope and at this point, I noticed when the car was in gear, the tranny held the car in place. If I depressed the clutch as far as it will go, the car will roll, release the clutch and the tranny engages and the car stops.
Today, I was able to bypass the clutch starter switch with a simple male/male jumper and zip tied the wires under the dash. The car starts and while the shifting is a not as smooth as I'd like... as I'm sure the clutch is not fully engaged, the car is drivable!
Everything is back together, including the undercarriage engine skid plate which was not easy to manipulate back in position. So far so good, now I can drive to my mechanic for his input.
I have no problem getting the slave in place and the bolt tightened, the first time was tricky, but after the 4th time, I could do it without looking.
Steve over on 986Forum.com suggested I try manual bleeding as opposed to using the Motive to see if I got different results.Yesterday, I had my wife depress the clutch while I opened the bleeder. I did see a few bubbles. Once the pedal hit the floor, I closed the valve, had her pull the pedal back to the normal position and repeated this about a dozen times. No more bubbles were present.
The clutch pedal continues to stop just short of the floor and the car won't start due to the sensor not triggering. I put the wheel back on, removed the jack stands and rolled down the ramp supporting the passenger side.
My driveway has a slight slope and at this point, I noticed when the car was in gear, the tranny held the car in place. If I depressed the clutch as far as it will go, the car will roll, release the clutch and the tranny engages and the car stops.
Today, I was able to bypass the clutch starter switch with a simple male/male jumper and zip tied the wires under the dash. The car starts and while the shifting is a not as smooth as I'd like... as I'm sure the clutch is not fully engaged, the car is drivable!
Everything is back together, including the undercarriage engine skid plate which was not easy to manipulate back in position. So far so good, now I can drive to my mechanic for his input.
| Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder DIY problem – Help please. djw8282 - 4 years ago |
Just curious of the end result as I am in the middle of an install of the slave and I finally was able to get the slave into place and mounted last night. When I finally got it in I felt like a weakling with no strength Lol. I hope it's in place with the fork and I don't have any issues as you experienced . Next is to connect the hydraulic line and bleed. if anyone has any to ad it would be appreciated!
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