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the car might brake automatically and its "foot"/"eye" coordination is literally lightning fast. That said, Tesla cannot defy physics. They are heavy cars and even with great brakes they don't stop as fast as Porsches.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
Your regimen makes perfect sense under the circumstances. With the battery sitting for long periods of time sulfation (buildup on the plates inhibiting charge) will be accelerated. You can ameliorate this and extend the life of your battery by getting a desulfating battery charger and occasionally using that function when your car is near a power source. Best not to wait until you see symptoms beby Boxsterra - Main Forum
I am talking about removing the circuit board from the M535 box and submerging it in pure isopropyl alcohol. The problem is that when it gets wet it's because it's submerged in water and the water seeps into every nook and cranny of the board, including under the components. When you soak it in alcohol, the alcohol seeps into the same areas and mixes with the water. When you then dry it, the alcoby Boxsterra - Main Forum
Moisture under the seat has damaged the alarm computer Electrical portion of switch is flaky The latter is much cheaper (~$10 for the part and 30 minutes labor, reasonably easy DIY) but in your case it sounds like it probably is the alarm. The old alarm can often be salvaged. Take it apart, soak the circuit board in pure isopropyl alcohol, thoroughly dry it, cross fingers. If that doesn't workby Boxsterra - Main Forum
but it wasn't the trunk. The cable is connected directly to the latch. The clunk is the sound of the latch pushing the hood up. When it's already up, as in the linked video, it doesn't make that sound. So he found some cable and it clunked when he pulled it, but it's not the frunk cable.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
When the engine is replaced, the oil filler tube has to be disconnected. I'm betting they didn't seat it properly and it made its way off in time, perhaps aided by the pressure of the clamp. FWIW mine split after 9 years and 110k miles. I first attempted to patch it but that was a fool's errand.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
I don't understand how the clamp could "slip" off. It is a captive spring clamp.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
The pipes fit together tightly without the clamp. AFAICT the purpose of the clamp is to keep the "nub" holding the two parts together, not itself as a compression seal. Congrats on getting them apart, not easy. As with all leaks, I suggest you clean the oily areas with oil and continue to drive. This often makes it much easier to track down.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
This is likely a problem with the microswitch in the latch, not the regulator itself. When you let go of the handle with the door open, the motor is moving the window back up. Symptoms of a bad regulator are generally bad action or inaction when action is expected, not the reverse. The issue could be displacement of the latch microswitch, problem with wiring to the switch, or the switch actuallby Boxsterra - Main Forum
one of them is not functioning consistently. Try putting a little piece of tape on the flap that is pushed by the latch. That is often enough to solve it. Common problem.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
the extras I have were the latest ones available that fit in a 1999 and will similarly fit your car. That said, I recommend you start with the additive and take it from there. If you end up doing the tensioners, it's really not difficult but I would always personally lock the cams. It's not difficult at all to do.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
The tensioner is filled with oil, which dampens the action of the spring. You prefill them before installing. If your engine doesn't have oil pressure you have bigger problems. The tensioner would have to have a prolonged period without oil (such as a clog) to lose its oil since it's mostly captive. You don't need to replace them to fix a clog in most cases. That said, If the early ones don't fiby Boxsterra - Main Forum
But note that they all have springs. The one with no visible spring has a stiff spring on the inside.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
The cam chain tensioners (there are 3 of them) were upgraded to a newer design but it's not a fundamental difference. I agree that it was a bit confusing to figure out which ones were the right ones to get.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
and it made no perceptible difference in startup rattle. However, running a can and a half of Liqui Moly 20004 Hyrdaulic Lifter additive in my oil made a huge difference. It turns out that the tiny oil passages that lubricate the lifters get clogged over time.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
Separating the top and bottom tubes is difficult enough. And the angle is super awkward, making it an "interesting" exercise. I would probably replace them both together.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
Pictures of the X12 plug (shown in first diagram) and how to access it. This is the passenger side but the driver's side (X11) is the same, except white in color. [986forum.com] I would start here because you don't know if the problem is before or after this point and it will save you time. Specifically I would test that Pin 5 on the X11 plug and the X12 plug are connected to each other, as theby Boxsterra - Main Forum
When you pull on the door handle (interior or exterior) the window on that side should drop a little bit (1" or so). If you release the latch without opening the door it should immediately go back up. If you open the door, it should stay dropped until you close the door, and then it should go up. The purpose is to allow the window to go up into the rubber molding when the door is shut. When youby Boxsterra - Main Forum
One enables the top to operate and the other causes the window to drop. As strange as it may sound, if the latter is malfunctioning, sometimes one window will go down and not the other due to the unpredictable nature of bouncing electrical circuits. The window drop feature is controlled by a single signal from the relay that is sent to both window motors. So if one window is going down, the probby Boxsterra - Main Forum
Which microswitches did you test and how did you test them? Does the driver's side window make any sound (click, clunk, anything else) when it's supposed to go down or is it completely silent?by Boxsterra - Main Forum
it has two parts, each of which is known to crack with age and stressby Boxsterra - Main Forum
For their labor, at a published rate, for parts, with a modest markup, and for shop supplies. Prices are often too high because the mechanic replaces parts that don't need to be replaced, use expensive parts, or markup the parts too much. I always recommend people who get estimates get a breakdown of what is being done, including parts & labor for everything. That said, everyone has a diffby Boxsterra - Main Forum
The rotors don't need to be replaced anywhere near as often as the pads. If the rotors aren't warped (spoiler: they're not) and they're not worn down (which can be determined by inspection) then don't replace them. $600 to replace 2 brake pads and sensors is too high. Parts should be under $100 and replacement should be an hour or less. Similarly, his rotor replacement price is way too high. Thby Boxsterra - Main Forum
While bleeding the clutch, the pedal should be held to the floorby Boxsterra - Main Forum
It's easy to do and if it hasn't been done in 125k miles, disengagement will be dicey.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
the front trunk levers are locked when you arm the immobilizer so if your battery dies you won't be able to easily get into the front trunk to jumpstart the car (unless you've already rerouted the release cable, in which case nvm).by Boxsterra - Main Forum
As long as the battery is connected, if you lock the door with the key the immobilizer is activated and the levers are locked. Really, if you reroute the frunk release cable to just inside the tow hook, you can open it in about 10 seconds even if the battery is dead.by Boxsterra - Main Forum