I could not open the entire photo in Photobucket, and could only see the top portion of it (blue terry cloth). In any case, you can check whether the inner cable has retracted by pulling up on the upside down U-Clip that locks the black drive cable onto the output flange of the electric motor. Do that on both sides and compare how much of the inner (square) drive cable is sticking out past theby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Two questions: Do you have the "A Version" transmissions or the "B Version" transmissions. (The early ones have a half-moon gear inside, the later ones have a continuous, full circle gear inside)? Since you describe that "the driver side gearbox didn't turn", have you verified that the inner cable of the drive cable on that side has not "retracted" inside that cable so as to cause it to not bby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
The overall length of the pushrod (i.e., metal part plus plastic ball cup) only has an effect on how the horizontal leading edge of the top lines up with the top horizontal surface of the windshield frame. If one pushrod is longer than the other, one side of the front of the top will reach the windshield frame before the other, and that side will usually end up with a broken plastic ball cup. Nby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
but I just have to tell you that the unselfish devotion that you have shown in taking care of your parents in their time of need is a rapidly disappearing quality in our society these days. You should derive strength from knowing that your parents must have appreciated everything that you did to help them when they could no longer help themselves. Your former employer behaved as many companiesby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Nice job and congratulations on tackling the job yourself. Now you know it was done properly! Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
On the side where the ball is missing, assuming the lug/ear end of the frame into which the ball screws is intact, you can just replace the ball pin. It screws into the end of the top frame and you can then tighten it by means of the thin hexagon shaped base (13 or 14 mm, IIRC). It might be a good idea to re-install that ball with some red loctite as a loosened ball often causes the lug/ear endby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
It looks like you take a #15 torx and turn the torx screw clockwise (looking at it from the top or above) and that will loosen up the knob below the sheet metal so that the "sandwich" is less tight (i.e., the sleeved washer will have room to move away from the sheet metal onto which it is squeezed right now). You can do that on all three and you should be able to then remove and replace the plasby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Roger: I can't believe you guys are still getting snow up there. It's been pretty wicked weather down here (Long Island) this winter, but it looks like our travails are over, weather wise. Are you hitting the road for "a couple of weeks" all the way into BRBS? Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
It is as simple as you think, including the possibility of needing a few adjustments after a test installation. IIRC the bolt that fastens the spinlocks is difficult to reach and easy to drop into never-never land, so it's a good idea to wrap the bolt in a strand of thin copper wire that you can pull out before tightening the bolt. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Quotejeddaman any suggestions? thanx jeddaman If you are on the south shore, you can try Rudtner's South Shore Performance in Freeport. Ask for Bill (Rudtner) (516) 378-8769. Long time Porsche indie who has been racing Porsches for decades. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Jaay: Anytime...Give me a call ahead of time and we'll make it an IMS replacement party like the one we had on Stefan's Box! I can bring over that nice transmission jack and the clutch alignment "tool" we cut off Stefan's old transmission. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Jaay: Let me know if you need a hand or any additional tools. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Gary: LOL! Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Better still... Keep yours and buy the wife a 991 PDF Cabriolet! Win, Win, Win situation! Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Rich: Wouldn't it be easier to just teach Becky to drive a stick? I probably know the answer to that question, but I had to ask it anyway because I have a similar situation here! Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
QuoteGary in SoFL Fine pictures, J....a cutie in a cutie +1 Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
We think alike... I have made small "ramps" for that purpose. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Roger: Another idea would be to change or at least remove and replace the oil filter more frequently so that you can monitor if it's a trend or an aberration. Every time you pull the filter take a few photos for reference so you don't have to guess at the comparison. Keep a log of what you find and the intervals at which you performed the inspection. IIRC, you can remove the oil filter housiby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Sounds like one of your plastic ball cups has popped off its steel ball or has broken apart. The dull pop or thud you describe as happening midway through the cycle and the one side of the top not meeting the windshield also point to that diagnosis, except that the additional noise is probably being caused by the now-dangling front pushrod digging into the foam drain tray and then freeing itseby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Definitely check with a magnet first. Also, clean the area under the bell housing where it meets the back of the engine and check for any trace of oil. When we replaced Stefan's IMS bearing, there was just a hint of a very, very slight looseness in the bearing and there was a trace of oil inside the bell housing that was just about to find its way to the outside, under that bell housing. Ifby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Yes, it turns out that it's usually that little plastic piece at the bottom of the leg of the regulator that breaks and causes the slack. The cable itself in some cases can start to fray or unravel but then the symptoms will usually include noisy operation or grinding, rubbing noises when operating the window. The bicycle brake adjuster fix by the poster on 986forum is simply genius and works vby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Marc is probably right, but if your are looking to squeeze a little more out of your regulator so that you can take care of it at a more opportune time, it might pay to do the adjustment. I found the write-up, so here is a link to the complete procedure, with photos: It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to make the adjustment. Make sure that you do it on both of the adjusters (i.e., front aby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
A very beautiful dog indeed, Grant. My sincere condolences. My best friend from college days just lost his German Shepherd about two weeks ago and is so broken up he can't bring himself to consider another dog. Some are simply irreplaceable, but, as Gary says, the memories will always remain. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
It is possible to adjust the final window height position by using the adjusters inside the door, without having to remove the door panel. You gain access to the adjusters through the holes on the horizontal underside surface of the door. I wrote this up a few years ago and will look for it and post it or a link to it ASAP. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
No, it's this stuff: The one at your link is used to apply as a topcoat and is (somewhat) optional. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Good to see you posting again and glad to see you still enjoy the Boxster. After a few decades of dealing with rust-prone cars (all cars before 1975 LOL!)...I have only found one product that really stops rust dead in its tracks. The original POR-15 formula in Gloss Black. The reason it works so well is that it cures by absorbing moisture. Another plus is that you don't have to completely remby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Well, it sure looks like you have made good use of your time while away....Lots of new interests and activities. As long as you still have that beautiful Boxster, glad that you will still be hanging around! BTW... Nice Pics! Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
You can DIY the canvas replacement on the top, but you must have patience and a willingness to not cut corners. If you have those two, along with about 7 to 10 hours, you can get professional results: If your current top is ragged, when you are finished you will think you have a new car! Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
QuoteMikenOH ... Good point. I had the same thought about adding this new oil line to lube the existing bearing; wouldn't you need to reasonably sure of the condition of this bearing before making that decision to leave it in the car with the new lube system? Can this evaluation be done with the bearing still in the car? With M97 engines, the only other option is an engine teardown. Whateverby MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum
Great to meet you and Kim at BRBS. Good to hear that drain fix method worked. Make sure that you monitor the foam padding and carpet behind the driver's seat after a rain or after washing the car to verify that no water is getting into the cabin (especially near the central alarm control unit under the seat). Keep us posted on the broken hinge. Regards, Maurice.by MauriceonLongIsland - Main Forum