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It does not require you to remove the whole dashboard. However, in order to fix it without removing the dash you have to cut something. Altogether it's not that involved a job but it will take 1-2 hours. I enumerated the solutions here:by Boxsterra - Main Forum
Looks like it's really coming together. I made recordings stationary and driving at various speeds with the microphone in a variety of locations and I found that the stock location was definitely the best. You can get it in there from the front with the wire hanging out the front just to test it. I don't think there is a diagram for the AC closing vent but I've taken most of these things apartby Boxsterra - Main Forum
I mounted the WiFi antenna in the A-pillar right next to the key remote antenna. I mounted the GPS antenna in the stock location, which is under the plastic cover in the center of the dash right by the windshield. Here is a pic of the cover Here is the antenna without the cover on it The location you circled in blue is exposed to the outside elements so you would have to make sure it isby Boxsterra - Main Forum
It might not be strictly necessary but it's not hard to do and it makes wire routing easier. It's just 3 bolts to remove the cluster and I always make sure to put a towel under it as the underside of the cluster can easily scratch the dash. I unplugged the wires for the cluster itself but in retrospect I don't think that is actually needed. Here are a few more pictures. I don't have a picture ofby Boxsterra - Main Forum
You can see straight through to the dash. I used picture wire to pull the microphone plug through from front to back. The foam on the microphone holds it securely in the stock microphone grill piece. I tried a bunch of locations (at the dash by the shifter, near the sun visor, on top of the steering wheel, etc.) and the stock location was definitely the best in terms of sound quality, evenby Boxsterra - Main Forum
Did you figure out a trick to it? Was it just a matter of finding more slack? Glad you got this resolved and it looks great.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
There is no need to remove the whole dashboard, just the center console. That exposes the center vent, which I cut to slits in to be able to pull it out of the way to give access to all 3 vent flaps. I cleaned the flaps and applied metal duct tape to them and also to the cut vent to seal it back up. Here's a picture I took during the process. The yellow tape was just to ensure clean cuts. You caby Boxsterra - Main Forum
and finally relented and fixed it last year It really is astonishingby Boxsterra - Main Forum
In that case I would look into either putting the biggest plug above that section (if there's enough slack) or removing the electrical plug to get it through. That does look like a bear. The other possibility is if the black plastic place can be temporarily relocated, that may solve it. I can't remember how that's attached.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
Neither then door speakers nor the dash speakers are full range. The dash speakers have two cones (~4" and ~1" tweeters) and the door speakers are ~5.25" but can be upgraded to a larger size. Your head unit has a 4 channel 85 W per channel amp that you could use to drive the speakers. And IMO it would sound a lot better than the stock amplifier.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
Before you try to get that plug through, please make sure to wrap it in tape. Otherwise, if it gets stuck and you have to back it out, pulling on the cable will break the little clip. This is not my picture but this is what you're looking at, right? Perhaps you can post a picture of yours.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
The hole you're trying to put them through are the lowest opening, right? Can you describe the problem you're having? Are you just unable to fit it through or is the cable not reaching? You might have to hold the existing black corrugated cable to the side to get the plug through.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
I'm glad you got it sorted out. If either of your headlights starts to work intermittently, the seating of the electrical plug on the back of the unit (per Pedro) and the heat damaged wires inside the headlight housing are both prime suspects. Cheers.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
It's hard to tell from your picture but I think that plug is expected to be there and not plugged into anything. It's for phone mute. A lot of people use it for Aux power down there. Climate controls: Take the biggest plug and wiggle it through that hole. Then do each subsequent one in decreasing order of size. They do fit and shouldn't require any significant forcing. If the cables don't quitby Boxsterra - Main Forum
The original part has been superseded by 996.613.535.01 But I would definitely take Pedro's advice about the connector first. Also, heat in the headlight unit over time can cause the wires to melt resulting in a bad connection. Also, note: (I can't vouch for the company but I like AutoHausAz and it's definitely cheap)by Boxsterra - Main Forum
If it balances and doesn't bother you then you can leave it alone. Most tire shops can straighten it out, usually for a modest fee.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
Changing those would be a good improvement. But you'd have to either source or build an adapter since there's no easy way to "just" mount the speakers since the originals are in a custom enclosure. The actual dash speakers are small and will make some difference but not a lot. It is totally possible to make a bracket to fit any similarly sized speakers up there. It's entirely likely that your nby Boxsterra - Main Forum
The links seem to require you to log in to see them.by Boxsterra - Parts for Sale
but it's not installed in the center consoleby Boxsterra - Main Forum
and miraculously I did not take pictures either time, other than the plugs on the back before moving the unit and that's not particularly helpful. However, I can tell you that the plugs will push through that slot, one at a time, biggest one first.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
If I remember correctly, I had to make sure the routing of the cables from the upper right where they split from the loom to down below was correct. I pushed he cable ends through the bottom opening one at a time, biggest one first. But I first made sure to tape them up to make sure to avoid breaking off the fragile clips. The existing cables had to be lightly pushed to the side to get them throuby Boxsterra - Main Forum
The standard values are available on every car made since 1996 MY So that means that any OBD-2 reader (including the $5 bluetooth ones) can read and clear engine codes and a bunch of real-time values (O2 sensor readings, fuel trims, intake air temp, etc.) Here is an idea of what's available: None of the Porsche-specific codes or values are available with a generic reader. You need one of seveby Boxsterra - Main Forum
All you need to read car info is an OBD-2 reader. I use Bluetooth but you can just as easily use a USB OBD-2 cable that plugs into almost any Android head unit. Running the microphone requires you to: - unbolt the cluster (easy 1/10) - pull the microphone grill off, insert microphone (usually wrapped in foam or similar to prevent movement), put grill back on (easy 1/10) - route the microphone wiby Boxsterra - Main Forum
It's possible that when your plugs were replaced the coils on those 3 cylinders were not clipped in correctly and they have worked their way partly off over time.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
If you upgrade to any system running Android it can interface with your car. Maestro ready is nice to have but not required. I did a series of experiments with microphone placement in every conceivable location and (surprise surprise) the stock location had the best sound, even at speed with the top down. The stock location is the little grill on the left side of the cluster. The cover pulls ofby Boxsterra - Main Forum
Right side: $119 Left side: $102 Source: Maybe not the low price you were hoping for but not that bad. Also Uro sells a kit containing both of them for $215.by Boxsterra - Main Forum
excess resistance in the car's battery testing circuitby Boxsterra - Main Forum
it might be a good idea to replace them regardless. They're not that expensive and it should increase the efficiency of the engine. If the car has post-cat codes then I would move the best ones you have (they should be all interchangeable) to post-cat positions and put fresh ones in the pre-cat positions. But that's just me. It's all about priorities.by Boxsterra - Main Forum