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The thing is that when I let the car cool (overnight in some cases), then open the cap, it has a lot of pressure. That tells me that there isn't a leak in the system. Does that logic make sense?by Yippee38 - Main Forum
Or, don't put any fluid in the bleeder at all. Use air pressure to push the fluid out. When it starts getting to the bottom, top it off, and repeat until all of the old fluid is replaced. It keeps the bleeder clean.by Yippee38 - Main Forum
Original thread here: Original thread Basically, I replaced my engine. Bled coolant 4 times, but it kept blowing coolant. Replaced the coolant cap and all seemed well for a while. Then the coolant light came on. At that point I decided I'd replace some parts to ensure it wasn't the coolant reservoir or bleed valve. So I replaced the reservoir, but another new cap on, an LN Engineering 160by Yippee38 - Main Forum
I ordered a new coolant reservoir from Sunset parts and another new cap. Sunset ROCKS BTW! Great price! I'm going to do a complete drain and refill with the Airlift to ensure I don't have any bubbles. I can't close the bleed valve. I pushed on it pretty hard, but was afraid if I pushed any harder it could crack the tank. I should have the part on Thursday or Friday. I'll let you know if thby Yippee38 - Main Forum
Since this last post, every time I drove the car and it got warm I would smell coolant. I figured it was the vapor escaping past the bleed valve, and didn't worry about it. A few days ago while driving the low coolant light came on again. I pulled over and checked the coolant level while the car was still hot. The coolant was showing at the bottom of the fill lines (the "minimum line). I droby Yippee38 - Main Forum
That looks like fun, but I kept thinking, "Why do they have studs on the tires? That takes the fun out of it."by Yippee38 - Main Forum
WOW! Notice that the truck driver was paying attention. He reacted before anybody else did.by Yippee38 - Main Forum
So we'll see. Yeah, the bleeder valve is stuck all the way open. You know how when you flip it up there is resistance due to the end of the metal handle pushing against those little raised areas on the plastic? Mine is open so far that the metal doesn't even touch the plastic, by about 1/8". Those were not spontaneous donuts. They were planned, and they were damn fun. I've got winter tiresby Yippee38 - Main Forum
You might want to go ask about this on LS1Tech. I bet somebody there can at least recommend a shop in your area.by Yippee38 - Main Forum
All of you guys were right. It was the coolant cap. Replaced it with a new one, and the problem disappeared. Of course, while bleeding I discovered two other problems. One is that the engine threw two codes while doing the first 2500rpm w/revs bit. Both are AIR pump related. P0410 and P1411. The second is when I went to flip down the bleeder on the cooling system, it just flopped over. Thby Yippee38 - Main Forum
Started the bleed procedure again. I just did the first part to warm up the car. I discovered that my thermostat is working (radiator lines in the wheel wells were hot). I was still getting fluid dumping so I shut the car off. I could hear the coolant boiling. I did see vapor coming from the area of the filler cap and the bleed valve. I suppose it could be from the bleed valve, but I thinkby Yippee38 - Main Forum
My car is a manual trans. I don't know if I have climate control or not. I have the standard panel that all of the '99s had (according to the owner's manual). That's good info anyway. I definitely did not check the radiator hoses in the wheel wells to ensure they were hot. Your instructions are more detailed than any I've seen before. I appreciate that. For the 5000rpm revs, I just rev itby Yippee38 - Main Forum
to see if they were hot. However, the heater did work. Is the heater downstream of the thermostat or no?by Yippee38 - Main Forum
but I did have the heater on while attempting to bleed. It may have gotten hotter than 212F, but I'm pretty sure it didn't hit the mark above 180 (which would be 215F). Then again, I know it got hot when I drove it the first time, but I can't remember how hot. Certainly nowhere near the top of the scale, but it MAY have gone above 215F. I don't think so, but I can't remember for sure.by Yippee38 - Main Forum
My car is a '99, so it's an early one. The cap I've got is 996.106.447.03. I just called Sunset Porsche, and that's what they are showing is the most recent. I replaced it last year. However, when I go to Pelican Parts, they are showing .04 as Genuine Porsche. Seems odd that they'd be different. As far as I can tell, the car is not leaking from anywhere but the overflow. It is all coming oby Yippee38 - Main Forum
Hey guys. I got the idle speed issue fixed, but I'm having trouble bleeding my coolant. I'm following the procedure on Pedro's Garage, which is pretty much the same as in the Bentley manual. Here's what happened: Top off coolant. Run car and ensure it's topped. Warm it up at 2500rpm for 10 minutes. Check coolant. It's still full. 2500rpm for 5 minutes + 5000rpm revs. Check coolant again. Stilby Yippee38 - Main Forum
At least I think it did. I cleaned the idle control valve, but I also replaced the AOS as it had just a small amount of oil in the tube to the intake. It's running fine now. Now if I could get the damn air out of the cooling system. Bled it twice, but it still needs more. Thanks guys!by Yippee38 - Main Forum
I replaced the engine on my '99. Both engines were factory remanufactured engines, so exact mileage is unknown. However, the engine coming out of my car had less than 64,000 miles, and the IMS had no play whatsoever. The IMS in the other engine had about as much play as the bad one in that video. That engine had less than 96,000 miles on it. FWIW.by Yippee38 - Main Forum
I'd be surprised if that's the problem though. As I said, I swapped out the entire TB assembly from my original engine (basically, everything from the air intake tube to the manifolds). That engine idled fine most of the time. I guess I'll have to take it apart and clean it out since I didn't take it apart earlier. Hopefully, that will be the problem. I'll let you all know how it goes, thougby Yippee38 - Main Forum
The only thing I can find is the "idle speed adjuster" in the parts list. It is screwed into the driver's side of the TB. In fact, in the first picture on this page (DIY from Pedro's Garage), it would be just to the right of the number 3. The dark grey thing between the numbers 2 and 3. So that is bolted to the TB. If you're talking about something else, tell me where to find it please.by Yippee38 - Main Forum
I'm not sure where it is, but isn't it bolted to the side of the TB?by Yippee38 - Main Forum
Hi all. This is my first post here. I used to read the old PPBB, but I never posted there. I've got a '99 Boxster (non-egas). I fried the main bearings at the track due to oil starvation due to Gs. I got a replacement used engine from OK Foreign and put it in myself. I finished today. The engine does run, but it's got a couple of problems. It is blowing coolant, but I think I didn't bleedby Yippee38 - Main Forum
Ok. That makes sense. Thanks for clearing that up!by Yippee38 - Main Forum
QuotePedro (Weston, FL) Three weeks into the search I found a 2.7 from a 2001 Boxster for $2,000 plus $300 shipping. I pounced on it, but it took a few more weeks to arrive. The problem was that the 2.7 liter engine is an e-gas engine and has VarioCam Plus, while the 2.5 has a throttle cable and simple VarioCam. Pedro Everything I've ever read says that the VarioCam Plus wasn't introduced unby Yippee38 - Main Forum