Never cut one apart but it can't that complex. Just a valve operated by vacuum.... |  |  |
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| evaporative control "purge" valve grant - 9 years ago |
Hey folks, this question pertains to my Audi buy i suspect is the same on almost any car using a bosche purge valve.
I am getting an "incorrect purge flow" error. I presume this means the valve is either stuck open or closed.
Does anyone know how these are built internally? Is it worth trying to clean with, say, brake cleaner or alcohol? (blowing worked fora few days but no longer)
Would it hurt anything? This certainly worked on the throttle body when i got EPC "implausible throttle angle" errors.
I can replace it - and even have the part - but i'd like to try to fix it. I have found that the real solution is top put a pre-filter between the charcoal canister and the valve - basically a lawnmower fuel filter. but first i need the value working smoothly.
TIA,
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
I am getting an "incorrect purge flow" error. I presume this means the valve is either stuck open or closed.
Does anyone know how these are built internally? Is it worth trying to clean with, say, brake cleaner or alcohol? (blowing worked fora few days but no longer)
Would it hurt anything? This certainly worked on the throttle body when i got EPC "implausible throttle angle" errors.
I can replace it - and even have the part - but i'd like to try to fix it. I have found that the real solution is top put a pre-filter between the charcoal canister and the valve - basically a lawnmower fuel filter. but first i need the value working smoothly.
TIA,
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
| Never cut one apart but it can't that complex. Just a valve operated by vacuum.... MarcW - 9 years ago |
or electricity that opens or closes when triggered.
Can't imagine dirt could be a factor in its non-operation as it just passes gasoline vapors.
I would hazard a guess it can't be that expensive to just replace. However, you want to be sure before you replace it the vacuum/electrical signal is being triggered and appearing at the valve.
Can't imagine dirt could be a factor in its non-operation as it just passes gasoline vapors.
I would hazard a guess it can't be that expensive to just replace. However, you want to be sure before you replace it the vacuum/electrical signal is being triggered and appearing at the valve.
| Yes, i agre with all that. Soo.. grant - 9 years ago |
1. I am in fact being very cheap. But its about $60 for the one that fits this car. Its in the glove-=box awaiting...
2. Its not easy to check the control voltage, since i don't know exactly when it determines that the time is right to open and allow monifold vacuum to suck in the vapors. But i agree and would like to
3. All that said, i did the following:
- found a small bass screen at the input, pry'd it out, cleaned
- sprayed carb cleaner in and blew through it, both ways. drained.
- Inserted a cheap-o lawnmower fuel filter in series before it
So far after ~ 8 drive cycles my CEL/MIL is gone. It may come back, may not. But it appears to be a success.
Thanks for the reply, all stuff i suspected too, so its nice to have confirmation.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
2. Its not easy to check the control voltage, since i don't know exactly when it determines that the time is right to open and allow monifold vacuum to suck in the vapors. But i agree and would like to
3. All that said, i did the following:
- found a small bass screen at the input, pry'd it out, cleaned
- sprayed carb cleaner in and blew through it, both ways. drained.
- Inserted a cheap-o lawnmower fuel filter in series before it
So far after ~ 8 drive cycles my CEL/MIL is gone. It may come back, may not. But it appears to be a success.
Thanks for the reply, all stuff i suspected too, so its nice to have confirmation.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
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